Not wanting to double post but I dropped my gas tank and it's full of crap. Not rust but crap! Not sure what to do now. Here's the original thread //www.fiero.nl/forum/F...092781.html#lastpost But in a nut shell, cars been sitting for who knows how long (6 years at a minimum) because the fuel pump died. I dropped the tank today and it's not rusted but just nasty with crap from 9 gallons of gas evaporating down to 1. I brought it to the car wash and pressure washed it but is there something I can dump into the tank that will help clean it out?
Edit to add, after the car wash it's much cleaner but still has some nasty shmeg in it.
[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 09-28-2013).]
If I were to do it I would take it completely out, dump out what you can, put in about a half gallon of curshed rock and a couple of gallons of soap and water and tumble it around for an hour or so. Dump every thing out and I bet it comes out really clean. Larry
Gasoline is a non-polar solvent, unlike water which is a polar solvent. Most likely the varnish left behind in the gas tank is non-polar in nature, so a non-ppolar solvent should dissolve the varnish. Acetone, Benzene, lacquer thinner, and ethyl acetate are all good non-polar solvents that should do the job for you. I just did a quick search on Google, and E85, and Coleman fuel were also mentioned as a way to clean out an old gas tank. I have found ethyl-acetate to do a great job on cleaning up a lot of stuff. I know that you can get it from most chemical supply companies like Fischer scientific, but its easier to get from the local drug store. Just look most of the non-acetone based nail polish removers are mostly made from ethyl acetate, and minor amounts of other solvents.
I hope the above info proves helpful. Please keep us posted as to how everything works out and what solved the problem for you. Good Luck.
~ Bob ~
------------------ "Its nice to be important. Its more important to be nice."
go to a fuel depot (where the trucks pick up the gasoline) and ask for straight ethnol it'll clean it out.. or if a race track near by, get some alky..
Toluene is a good alternative to Benzene, less cancerous as well. Cleans great.
If you use that, make sure you wear a respirator, that stuff will get you higher than a kite on a weather balloon in high winds FAST. that's what used to be in glue when the kids sniffed it to get high.
it will work but be careful. and don't smoke, you think gas is flammable that stuff is worse.
think nail polish remover, it is the main ingredient and some of them it is the only ingredient I use it to flush out my MIG liners to get a few more uses out of them until I can get a new liner.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 09-29-2013).]
I took mine to local radiator shop and had them clean it out and coat inside of tank, cost $75.00 because I told him no hurry and he did it during down times. Took 10 days but tank looked new inside and out when I got it back, yes he painted the outside also. If you go this route ask tem first if they do this type of work on a regular basis.
I took mine to local radiator shop and had them clean it out and coat inside of tank,
I was all set to go this route, even have a shop near my office. But they don't do this anymore and neither do any of the places I called. So then I did some searching on the web and everyone (like above) has a different product they use, from lacquer thinner, Acetone, Vinegar and even Drano!!??? I’m concerned that if I use Lacquer thinner, Acetone or some other toxic chemical that I’ll have to get the tank resealed to prevent future rust issues. It’s not rusty, just dirty (varnish). I went to the local Tractor Supply Co and I found a Product called Evapo-Rust. It’s nonflammable and nontoxic. Anybody ever try this?
I was all set to go this route, even have a shop near my office. But they don't do this anymore and neither do any of the places I called. So then I did some searching on the web and everyone (like above) has a different product they use, from lacquer thinner, Acetone, Vinegar and even Drano!!??? I’m concerned that if I use Lacquer thinner, Acetone or some other toxic chemical that I’ll have to get the tank resealed to prevent future rust issues. It’s not rusty, just dirty (varnish). I went to the local Tractor Supply Co and I found a Product called Evapo-Rust. It’s nonflammable and nontoxic. Anybody ever try this?
??? No Idea. Just when i Googled it, most of the threads that were using something like Acetone or Lacqure thinner also said that you had to seal the tank to prevent it from flash-rusting as soon as it dried. Just not wanting to make things worse that's all. Already have a gallon of Lacquer thinner, just wondering about the less toxic Evapo-rust stuff i saw.
Eastwood (and others) have a kit for metal tanks. You pour in the cleaner per instructions to clean it. Then you pour in the sealer and move the tank all around so it coats the inside completely. After its hardened its better than new.
Eastwood (and others) have a kit for metal tanks. You pour in the cleaner per instructions to clean it. Then you pour in the sealer and move the tank all around so it coats the inside completely. After its hardened its better than new.
Be careful of the plastic parts of the tank. The radiator shop I took some old metal tanks to said that their tank coating doesn't stick as well to plastic (it is a red-ish coating). Not that that is a big deal, but it could clog up the sock filter in the future.
Last night I was able to inspect the tank better now that it’s dry and I was wrong, it's rust. OR whatever crud I saw after dumping it came out at the car wash and I could see a coating of scaly rust on the sides up to about the 1/4 full level. I banged the tank on the ground a few times and a lot of it came loose. I pressure washed the S out of it and a lot more came off but now I’m wondering if I should just start looking for a new tank. I got a gallon of the Evap-o-Rust and might try dumping that in with a box of hex nuts, shake the crap out of it and see what’s it looks like after that. This is going to be my wife’s car and don’t want issues with it dying due to a clogged pump/filter.
I just got a call back from the local radiator shop that was closed yesterday. The guy said they can chemically strip it with a type of carb cleaner, then steam clean it and then add a “bladder” to it for $200, or just clean it without the bladder for $85 but can't guarantee that they can do either job very well with that plastic baffle in it. He said if there’s rust under it then it’d probably be better to get a new one. Guess i'll start looking for a new one.
[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 10-01-2013).]
Originally posted by 84fiero123: Just buy a new one. it would probably be cheaper, quicker and hell then you got a new one. Steve
I don't think a $300 aluminum tank is in the cards right now and I doubt I can't find one locally, will check the bone yards this weekend. Are there issues with putting in a tank from a non-88 car? I sure would like to keep the 88 tank in it for to the extra gallon or two but if I don't have a choice.......
Oh, and just as a FYI , as a last ditch effort I dumped in the gallon of Evapo-Rust last night with 100 - 5/16" hex nuts and shook the bjesus out of it, then let it sit on a 45*angle overnight. This morning I shook it a bit and put it on its other side at a 45* angle...will see what it looks like tonight. Figured it can’t hurt anything other than my wallet for the $28 the stuff cost. At the least I can let others know if the stuff works or not.
I got a gallon of the Evap-o-Rust and might try dumping that in with a box of hex nuts, shake the crap out of it and see what’s it looks like after that. This is going to be my wife’s car and don’t want issues with it dying due to a clogged pump/filter.
