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clutch question by newfiejeff
Started on: 09-20-2013 03:39 PM
Replies: 15 (174 views)
Last post by: newfiejeff on 09-26-2013 05:30 AM
newfiejeff
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Report this Post09-20-2013 03:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
1986 4 cylinder 5 speed

Question, just bought a fiero and having trouble getting the car to go in gear going from neutral to any gear. If I push the clutch pedal really hard it works almost fine, but it changes fine between gears or somewhat better when driving. The clutch pedal is out past the brake pedal and the clutch pedal is not bent. I am thinking that it is the slave cylinder.

Any thoughts?

[This message has been edited by newfiejeff (edited 09-25-2013).]

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Gall757
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Report this Post09-20-2013 04:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
1986?

You can use your earlier thread for your new question....it helps us readers to have all the info for one car in one thread.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 09-20-2013).]

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Slowbuild
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Report this Post09-20-2013 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlowbuildSend a Private Message to SlowbuildEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's the slave, or it's the master, or it's air in the system or it's all 3.

The master can be somewhat checked by pulling the rubber boot on the banjo side and looking for fluid...if there is any it's toast.

The slave, well look at general condition.

I've found that typically the slave bore gets rusty and looses it's seal, allowing air into the system. I'd try a slave after checking the master for fluid.

Note: gravity bleeding the slave combined with manually pulling and slowly releasing the slave pushrod at the end of gravity bleeding seems to yield the best results.


Chay
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Slowbuild
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Report this Post09-20-2013 05:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SlowbuildSend a Private Message to SlowbuildEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Slowbuild

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Member since Nov 2009
Oh yeah, and long may your big jib draw!

Chay
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post09-20-2013 05:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
whata ya got in ya mouth me old c....

hahaha

thanks boys!!!
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post09-24-2013 08:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just looking at the clutch cylinders last night and the master looks fairly new, looks like a new braided hose going to the slave cylinder. So my problem I think is that it is not bled properly, I did notice the slave cylinder seemed like it moved a nice bit, so I am hoping that there is nothing else wrong beside the slave or air in the line.

I read on archies site last night on the proper way to bleed the system, also I need to check the linkage on the gearbox for cracks or wear.

If all that pans out good what else could it be?
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post09-24-2013 09:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A brake bleeder pump will help a whole lot. Yes bleeding is the issue. You need to fully compress the slave when you do it. Bubbles collect at the plunger end. What I did was disconnect the slave, compress the slave with the bleeder open. I had a friend depress the pedal with me on the wrench. I would open and close the bleeder while he used the pedal. When I did it myself, I used a piece of wood to jamb between the depressed pedal and the seat, opened and closed the bleeder and then repeated.

Essentially you want the plunger to move with the smallest pedal travel. You can check this using a broom handle to actuate the pedal while you watch the plunger

I hope this helps

Arn

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newfiejeff
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Report this Post09-24-2013 09:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks!! My only fear right now is pulling the gear box
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post09-24-2013 08:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just had a quick try at the slave cylinder bleeder and it won't budge, got some wd 40 on it for the night.

If the car is not going I can put the car through it's gear pretty good, but when it starts it is harder and reverse wants to grind so I don't force it, is it still possibly air in the system?

Also can I get a picture of what the rod from the clutch to the master cylinder looks like in the car, I want to make sure it's not upside down. Also the little spacer or ring that goes in after the rod is on the clutch is plastic and wore a little, would this make a difference?
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post09-24-2013 08:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You need some deep creep or the equivalent and wd 40 is not a very good penetrating oil.

All the symptoms are pointing to the same thing, The clutch isn't disengaging fully,

Arn
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post09-24-2013 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by newfiejeff:
Also can I get a picture of what the rod from the clutch to the master cylinder looks like in the car, I want to make sure it's not upside down. Also the little spacer or ring that goes in after the rod is on the clutch is plastic and wore a little, would this make a difference?


The issue isn't really the fit. The issue is whether it allows your clutch pedal to travel up and down without moving the plunger. Try wiggling it with your fingers. If you can, the loop in the banjo is worn. The best solution is Rodney's adjustable banjo. Essentially the smallest clutch pedal movement should move the slave plunger. give it a try

Arn
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Report this Post09-25-2013 10:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for northstarClick Here to Email northstarSend a Private Message to northstarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
one thing that worked for me was to get a piece of steel or a longer bolt that is the same diameter of the clutch rod, whack the head off the bolt ,, now you have a rod that WILL push far enuff to release the pressure plate, a lot of times all the factory setting wont give you enuff, specially if the clutch is worn even just a little, replace the rod solve your problem good luck
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post09-25-2013 12:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the wear point is not the end. It is the loop. It gets sloppy

Arn
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post09-25-2013 02:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If memory serves me right when I had it apart last night I had to put a bit of pressure to get the rod on, so I think there is no play, but I will check it tonight.

Going to heat up the bleeder nipple with the torch tonight.

Do I jack the rear of the car up? Archies and the fiero store doesnt mention that but I read that here in a few places
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Report this Post09-25-2013 07:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
lifting the back end helps, but does not help the slave expel the bubbles from the front of the slave. I did it by unhooking the slave but you might be able to jack the back left corner and do it too.
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Report this Post09-26-2013 05:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffClick Here to Email newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Update!!
I had to use heat to get the bleeder screw out, when I got it out the fluid had rust in it on the top and the bleeder screw was full of rust...I couldn't find the little hole in it. Anyways all the rust is cleaned up and the hole is free. I had about 3/4 inch travel on the slave cylinder and now I got about 3/4 or maybe a little more and that is all I can get. I bled the whole system by filling up the master cylinder by at least 5 times...wanted to make sure I had fresh fluid in it. Now the car shifts really smooth through all gears. Actually when I took out the bleeder screw you could see little bubbles coming out of the fluid for about 30 seconds...wicked.

Now on to the alternator!!!
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