Question, just bought a fiero and having trouble getting the car to go in gear going from neutral to any gear. If I push the clutch pedal really hard it works almost fine, but it changes fine between gears or somewhat better when driving. The clutch pedal is out past the brake pedal and the clutch pedal is not bent. I am thinking that it is the slave cylinder.
[This message has been edited by newfiejeff (edited 09-25-2013).]
Just looking at the clutch cylinders last night and the master looks fairly new, looks like a new braided hose going to the slave cylinder. So my problem I think is that it is not bled properly, I did notice the slave cylinder seemed like it moved a nice bit, so I am hoping that there is nothing else wrong beside the slave or air in the line.
I read on archies site last night on the proper way to bleed the system, also I need to check the linkage on the gearbox for cracks or wear.
A brake bleeder pump will help a whole lot. Yes bleeding is the issue. You need to fully compress the slave when you do it. Bubbles collect at the plunger end. What I did was disconnect the slave, compress the slave with the bleeder open. I had a friend depress the pedal with me on the wrench. I would open and close the bleeder while he used the pedal. When I did it myself, I used a piece of wood to jamb between the depressed pedal and the seat, opened and closed the bleeder and then repeated.
Essentially you want the plunger to move with the smallest pedal travel. You can check this using a broom handle to actuate the pedal while you watch the plunger
Just had a quick try at the slave cylinder bleeder and it won't budge, got some wd 40 on it for the night.
If the car is not going I can put the car through it's gear pretty good, but when it starts it is harder and reverse wants to grind so I don't force it, is it still possibly air in the system?
Also can I get a picture of what the rod from the clutch to the master cylinder looks like in the car, I want to make sure it's not upside down. Also the little spacer or ring that goes in after the rod is on the clutch is plastic and wore a little, would this make a difference?
Originally posted by newfiejeff: Also can I get a picture of what the rod from the clutch to the master cylinder looks like in the car, I want to make sure it's not upside down. Also the little spacer or ring that goes in after the rod is on the clutch is plastic and wore a little, would this make a difference?
The issue isn't really the fit. The issue is whether it allows your clutch pedal to travel up and down without moving the plunger. Try wiggling it with your fingers. If you can, the loop in the banjo is worn. The best solution is Rodney's adjustable banjo. Essentially the smallest clutch pedal movement should move the slave plunger. give it a try
one thing that worked for me was to get a piece of steel or a longer bolt that is the same diameter of the clutch rod, whack the head off the bolt ,, now you have a rod that WILL push far enuff to release the pressure plate, a lot of times all the factory setting wont give you enuff, specially if the clutch is worn even just a little, replace the rod solve your problem good luck
Update!! I had to use heat to get the bleeder screw out, when I got it out the fluid had rust in it on the top and the bleeder screw was full of rust...I couldn't find the little hole in it. Anyways all the rust is cleaned up and the hole is free. I had about 3/4 inch travel on the slave cylinder and now I got about 3/4 or maybe a little more and that is all I can get. I bled the whole system by filling up the master cylinder by at least 5 times...wanted to make sure I had fresh fluid in it. Now the car shifts really smooth through all gears. Actually when I took out the bleeder screw you could see little bubbles coming out of the fluid for about 30 seconds...wicked.