I've noticed 2 different linkages between the steering column and the rack for the 88, one with a rag jont on the GT/Formula and one with a sleeve with a rubber isolator between the shaft and sleeve on the coupes. Why is that so? My rag joint is bad on my 88 GT and I plan on replacing it with a 88 coupe linkage that had 50k on it. I know I could replace the rag joint with a solid disc but I am going to try the coupe linkage before going that route.
GM did not make extra parts if they did not have to, so I suspect one of your steering systems has been modified.
Nope. He is right......the '88 V6 models have a different intermediate shaft than the 4-cyl coupe (rag joint vs. rubber). It may have to do with the wheel/tire size difference, but I really have no idea.
Ya, there was two different type of steering linkage rods.
The coupe had the solid shaft into a rubber bushing, and the Formula's a GTs had the donut type rubber assembly like the one you are refering to.
I don't know why the Formula's and GT had that difference, probably for a better comfort feel at the steering wheel. Many GM cars from the era have this style assembly.
The coupe steering rack was 3.5 turns lock to lock, and the GT/Formula was 3 turns.
All '88 racks are the same. I think some publications may have listed the power steering ratio which was supposed to be 16:1 as opposed to 19:1 for the manual racks... that would correspond to ~3 turns lock to lock if the manual rack is 3.5.
OK, but there were 2 different racks manufactured....just not in 88. We may be looking at an earlier year steering linkage that was put into an 88 coupe.
Originally posted by Erik: On the rag joint linkage, it is loose rivets that are causing the problem, not the rag joint itself.
Sorry but no... "Loose" rivet is often cause by "worn out" rubber. Rubber is ok to you but does compress/shrink over the long run. Is a known issue for doughnut/donuts.
They make replacements for some cars/trucks because rubber is the U-joint too. Don't know if anyone makes a replacement donut for Fiero. Example see dorman keyword: steering coupler
In this case the rubber/donut is only a shock absorber to save the U joints.
the rubber bushing uses a big roll pin if the rubber fails. ~220,000 miles on 87 fiero and still good on rubber... Note that 84-87 use 2 different intermediate shafts... w/ vs w/o WS6 option etc.
If both end fits the rack then it doesn't matter to steering but tight turn ratio may mean extra stress to this part... The U joints gets more stress or rubber bushing wears faster than the donut. Yes, could change driver's "road feel" too.
If you use 4 cyl part then save old unit, maybe fix it, as a spare. iffy donut is better then dead unit... Find a used donut part could be hard.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The picture of two intermediate steering shafts dipict the manual steering and pwr steering design. These both have the crash collaspe injected shaft joint and redundant torsion steel backup in the rubber isolators.
The manual has a torsional rubber isolator .
The power steering has a flexiable coupling (slang -rag joint) to provide additional isolation.
The use of the two is determined by the Chassis vehicle dynamics engineer with respect to ride and handling.
The Rag coupling design is more expensive to produce.
The Fiero was killed by Gm mid production and with both shafts produced either was used on the manual rack until the stock was used up.
If I had the shaft removed I would replace the rubber flex coupling ( 25 to 30 year old rubber and how many miles.)
[This message has been edited by FlyFieroGT (edited 09-16-2013).]
All '88 racks are the same. I think some publications may have listed the power steering ratio which was supposed to be 16:1 as opposed to 19:1 for the manual racks... that would correspond to ~3 turns lock to lock if the manual rack is 3.5.
Yep they are all the same. I have a couple of GT's and a couple of coupes and they all have the same amounts of turns lock to lock a little over 3 1/4 turns.
I replaced the GT steering linkage with the coupe steering linkage. What a nice change my steering is tighter more responsive no shakes and shimmers in the steering wheel. Also I put Rodneys bronze replacement bushing in as well. I am currently running the stock 88 wheels and tires sizes. I have my 17s in storage I plan on putting them back on soon and I am sure it will feel like a razor then with the stiffer sidewalls. I think the coupes steering linkage is better then the GT's
Yep they are all the same. I have a couple of GT's and a couple of coupes and they all have the same amounts of turns lock to lock a little over 3 1/4 turns.
I have done several power steering conversions in 88's and have at least 5 racks in the shed. They are all exactly the same ( with the exception of plastic vs metal bushing) but come from all types of 88's. They all have the same rack no matter the trim level. 3.5 turns lock to lock. IF your car has less than 3.5 turns lock then you have some binding going on.
[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 09-17-2013).]
I have done several power steering conversions in 88's and have at least 5 racks in the shed. They are all exactly the same ( with the exception of plastic vs metal bushing) but come from all types of 88's. They all have the same rack no matter the trim level. 3.5 turns lock to lock. IF your car has less than 3.5 turns lock then you have some binding going on.
