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Possible fix for decklid release. by EvilSqueezles
Started on: 09-03-2013 09:19 PM
Replies: 8 (1042 views)
Last post by: EvilSqueezles on 09-04-2013 10:58 AM
EvilSqueezles
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Report this Post09-03-2013 09:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for EvilSqueezlesClick Here to Email EvilSqueezlesSend a Private Message to EvilSqueezlesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I've had it. My deck lid release on my 87 GT just wasn't working. But today I'd had enough and was damned determined it was going to. Let me list the things I had tried to date.

- bought all new stuff from a junkyard car
- replaces switch, relay, solenoid, etc.
- tested wires to find power faults or anything that could give me a lead

First off, if your deck lid isn't working correctly (long time fiero owners probly know all this stuff by the way)... the first thing is to check the switch, its easy to get to and easy to replace if its bad. Remove the 4 torx screws and unplug the harness. Visually inspect for any blackening or melting indicating a short on the harness and check to make sure all the the switch blades aren't loose or broken or highly corroded somehow. Don't over think things yet.

If all looks good there, proceed down on the passenger side of the steering column. Almost directly below the switch under the dash you'll find the relay. It will have 3 wires going to it ( mine is an 87 and I believe some colors might be different on other years). You'll have a constant 12v source wire that is yellow, a grey wire, and a black. The easiest way to check if the relay is the cause is to jumper the 2 smaller wires (grey and black) and try the switch again. If the solenoid clicks than your relay is bad. If not, proceed to the next step.

Okay, you've checked the switch and relay, all seems okay so far. Let's move back to the engine bay. Coming through the passenger side of the firewall and up by the deck lid hinge will be a flat looking wiring harness that connects right by the hinge. From there it goes up into the decklid itself and back to the solenoid. Make sure all connections at the harness are solid, free of noticeable burning, and not corroded.

If that checks out good move onto the solenoid itself. The first thing I did was run a small ground wire from the trunk area up to the sheet screw that holds the ajar sensor into the latch body. Then try the switch again. The solenoid grounds through the deck latch when its closed. If the wire makes the solenoid click, than its not properly grounding through the latch and you need to adjust it til it contacts and grounds good.

If adding the ground does not fix your problem, remove the electric solenoid from the latch body and check for rust/corrosion. This is where my problem was. There's a small plunger attached to a levered arm that trips the spring arm when the solenoid pops out. The body of the "plunger" or piston on mine was slightly rusty and just kinda rough looking. My problem was fixed by simply spraying wd-40 onto the plunger and working it in and out. After about 10 minutes of doing this you could start to feel it gaining its "spring" back. Its natural position when removed from the latch body will be all the way OUT, if its in when you remove it, or sticks when you press it in... this may fix your problem as well. Of course it is possible that the solenoid is just junk... but I highly recommend trying these steps before buying all new stuff.

Once my solenoid had its spring back and I moved it in and out for a while to make sure nothing would bind or stick, I took the wire that j had made for the ground from the previous step... got another wire and stuffed it into where the single wire plug is in the solenoid and tapped the other end of the wire to the battery post. Sure enough the solenoid acted brand new. I left the ground wire attached and joined it back on the latch assembly and out a screwdriver in it to close the latch, hit the button and voila! Popped open. I then removed the ground and shut the lid to see if it would still work. Mine did. But keep in mind what was said earlier. The solenoid grounds through the latch so it may need adjusted. If it works with the wire and not without it, than its not contacting the latch well.

I'm sure this is nothing new to a lot of people on here, but I fought and fought with mine til I went through this process. So I thought it may be helpful for some other people new to fiero, or afraid to dig into the cars at all. Might also save some solenoids that didn't need to be tossed, just given some love. Let's face it, not all parts are easy to find for our lovely little cars anymore. Hope this helps someone, typing it all on my phone sucked the ace

Cheers and happy wrenching!

~James

Edit To add : the trunk release is tied into the ctsy/cel fuse in the fuse box. Bottom of the panel when its hanging. Its a 25 fuse.

[This message has been edited by EvilSqueezles (edited 09-04-2013).]

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racingfortheson
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Report this Post09-03-2013 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for racingforthesonSend a Private Message to racingforthesonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanx for the walk through. It is one of my next projects and this will really help. Nice write up.
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EvilSqueezles
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Report this Post09-04-2013 08:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for EvilSqueezlesClick Here to Email EvilSqueezlesSend a Private Message to EvilSqueezlesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Moral of the story was just that mine was corroded and rusty, not shot. But I hope this helps in one form or another. I am going to go out later today and add a few pictures if i get the chance.
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Grantman
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Report this Post09-04-2013 08:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GrantmanClick Here to Email GrantmanSend a Private Message to GrantmanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
excellent write up. one of the many things on my Fiero's bucket list. + for you.

------------------
1986 Fiero GT Fastback 3.4Lpr with 4T60
1979 Naked Honda Goldwing

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Boostdreamer
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Report this Post09-04-2013 10:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerClick Here to Email BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Or you can install a stock Fiero front hood release on the trunk. It is a direct bolt-on. I think you can run the cable through the firewall with the shifter cables, etc. Mount the handle behind the seat. I've never done it but I think the idea is a great one.

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Jonathan

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92wastheyear
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Report this Post09-04-2013 10:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 92wastheyearClick Here to Email 92wastheyearSend a Private Message to 92wastheyearEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks ES.....fixing my trunk release was one of the very first things I repaired on my 87 when I got it this past spring. A thread like this would have been a godsend. As it is was I took a shotgun approach with mine repair ( I replaced everything except the solenoid and it worked). One thing is that when you are dorking around with the trunk release, it is a good idea to check out the trunk light system too. There is a switch that is located on the latch that turns the trunk light on/off and activates the "Door Ajar" light in the dash...this switch is also connected to the same wiring harness as the trunk solenoid


PS I believe that what we have been describing here only applies to later model Fieros. I think that 84s (and maybe 85s) have a different wiring setup for the trunk release. Perhaps someone else can jump in here and clarify that part
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da.slyboy
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Report this Post09-04-2013 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for da.slyboyClick Here to Email da.slyboySend a Private Message to da.slyboyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good write up. I am in the process of adding the trunk popper to mine (added switch, solenoid, extra wire in hatch harness), so it's nice to have all this info that I found in several other posts in one location.

Not to hijack the thread but when putting this all together I found the lamp on my "AJAR" light was not contacting the circuit. Well by correcting this, it now appears my ajar light stays on all the time (with trunk open or closed). Wonder if there were any suggestions on tracking down this problem. Just found this problem last night so I haven't checked the switch yet.
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92wastheyear
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Report this Post09-04-2013 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 92wastheyearClick Here to Email 92wastheyearSend a Private Message to 92wastheyearEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by da.slyboy:

Good write up. I am in the process of adding the trunk popper to mine (added switch, solenoid, extra wire in hatch harness), so it's nice to have all this info that I found in several other posts in one location.

Not to hijack the thread but when putting this all together I found the lamp on my "AJAR" light was not contacting the circuit. Well by correcting this, it now appears my ajar light stays on all the time (with trunk open or closed). Wonder if there were any suggestions on tracking down this problem. Just found this problem last night so I haven't checked the switch yet.


Yeah....checking the switch (or checking if you have a switch) is the first part. If the "Door Ajar" light is staying on check it quickly ...this could also indicate that your trunk light is also staying on and could run down your Battery. The switch could be broken or misadjusted. If need a new switch they are available from The Fiero Store (pretty cheaply as I recall)

[This message has been edited by 92wastheyear (edited 09-04-2013).]

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EvilSqueezles
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Report this Post09-04-2013 10:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for EvilSqueezlesClick Here to Email EvilSqueezlesSend a Private Message to EvilSqueezlesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think 84s had the ajar switch located down by the latch, not on the deck lid itself, I've never owned one older than an 86 so I can't guarantee that though. Ogres cave has a good amount of info on this subject. I pretty much read through it, tinkered with the ideas, and posted them here in a slightly simpler version along with my personal experience.

I also tried to clarify that the wiring may be different in other years, but the process should be similar. If I had an older car is make another one for them as well.

And, the ajar switch that goes onto the latch from the fierostore is listed as 86-88 gt only. Here is a link. http://fierostore.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=64646

Edit: 200th post!

[This message has been edited by EvilSqueezles (edited 09-04-2013).]

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