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Ignition key by kevin
Started on: 08-19-2013 09:50 PM
Replies: 9 (382 views)
Last post by: 85 SE VIN 9 on 08-20-2013 07:53 PM
kevin
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Report this Post08-19-2013 09:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kevinClick Here to Email kevinSend a Private Message to kevinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fellas,
My key is in the ignition switch. I turn the key to "on" start the car. Nothing happens Do i have to replace my ignition switch, or am I over overlooking something?

Cordially,
kevin
P.s. the blue thingie chimes on, and the electric windows work. What gives?
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seajai
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Report this Post08-19-2013 10:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for seajaiSend a Private Message to seajaiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What year? Automatic or manual?
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CowsPatoot
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Report this Post08-20-2013 01:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CowsPatootClick Here to visit CowsPatoot's HomePageSend a Private Message to CowsPatootEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
New problem? Anything else change at the same time? Been doing any work on the car?

Could be overlooking a lot. The blue dingie thingie and windows work in the "run" position....your problem is in the "start" position. Couple things it could be:
1. It could actually be a bad ignition switch...but I doubt it.
2. Alignment of the ignition switch. If the ignition switch is out of place on the steering column, it could prevent the key from moving the ignition switch to the start position. Does your radio cut out when you try to start it? If it doesn't, then I would definitely look here first.
3. Broken wire anywhere between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.
4. Bad clutch safety switch (manual) or park/neutral switch (auto).
5. Bad starter.

First thing I would do after verifying the radio cuts off when you try to start it is to check for power at the purple wire going to the starter solenoid when the key is turned (I would unhook the wire before checking it for safety reasons). After that, I would follow that wire backward through the C500 and clutch safety or park neutral switch until you find where it is losing the power.

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woodyhere
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Report this Post08-20-2013 08:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for woodyhereClick Here to Email woodyhereSend a Private Message to woodyhereEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a friend with a Fiero. It's a 5 spd and spends most of it's time in storage. We are all getting older and we forget things. He called me in a panic last spring. He couldn't understand what happened to his car while in storage and with a battery tender on it. It wouldn't turn over at all. Everything seemed to work except the starter wouldn't spin. He forgot to push in the clutch!

Have a good day!

Woody
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kevin
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Report this Post08-20-2013 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kevinClick Here to Email kevinSend a Private Message to kevinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by CowsPatoot:

New problem? Anything else change at the same time? Been doing any work on the car?

Could be overlooking a lot. The blue dingie thingie and windows work in the "run" position....your problem is in the "start" position. Couple things it could be:
1. It could actually be a bad ignition switch...but I doubt it.
2. Alignment of the ignition switch. If the ignition switch is out of place on the steering column, it could prevent the key from moving the ignition switch to the start position. Does your radio cut out when you try to start it? If it doesn't, then I would definitely look here first.
3. Broken wire anywhere between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.
4. Bad clutch safety switch (manual) or park/neutral switch (auto).
5. Bad starter.

First thing I would do after verifying the radio cuts off when you try to start it is to check for power at the purple wire going to the starter solenoid when the key is turned (I would unhook the wire before checking it for safety reasons). After that, I would follow that wire backward through the C500 and clutch safety or park neutral switch until you find where it is losing the power.



Thanks CowsPatoot,
Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I did check the key, I wiggeled it around,same (non) result. Battery is good. I do have the Isuzu 5 sp. All the wires seem to be hooked up and connected. Starter is good. If the ignition key switch is bad, my assumption, is there a way to confirm that it needs replacement?

Cordially,
kevin

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Fiero.1984
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Report this Post08-20-2013 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero.1984Send a Private Message to Fiero.1984Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The fusible link maybe burned out. I had it happen to my car and it was caused by a loose spark plug wire hitting exhaust manifold and it burned out. The mechanic who fixed just bypassed the fusible link. Bad idea because the next time the spark plug wire hit the exhaust manifold, it burned out the ECU. So look at your spark plug wires and see if you see any burned insulation.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post08-20-2013 03:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Get a 12v test light like this one - http://www.rvpartscenter.co...ID=20&DID=20&CID=192

The test light is better for troubleshooting than a meter. It is an easy to read indication. You will never mistake millivolts for volts with it. You don't have to look at it directly to know if it's on. It will respond immediatedly. Simple. Easy. Good.

Clip the test light clip to a good ground under the dash. Verify the ground by touching the tip to some of the test points on the back of the fuses Don't pull the fuses just touch the light to the little exposed metal test point on the back of the plastic fuse. You should be seeing the light come on. Once you do then you know your ground is good and then move on to the next tests.

At the ignition switch locate the thick Red wire. Probe into the connector hole and see if you have voltage there. You should all the time. If you don't get it then your fusible link back by the battery might be bad, however since you get the chime that would indicate your fusible link is good.

Now with the car in neutral have someone turn the key to start and check for voltage on the thick yellow wire of the switch. If you get it your switch is good. If not your switch is bad.

Now with your friend pushing down the clutch pedal, the car still in neutral just in case and with you under the dash (yeah that should be easy) check for voltage on the fat yellow wire on the clutch switch. The proper switch is the one with the screwy long thing. Btw, if that screwy long thing came disconnected from the pedal or broke that is your problem. Since that is the same wire as at the ignition switch you should get the same indication as at the switch. Now check the fat purple wire of the clutch switch. You should get voltage there when the key is turned to start AND the clutch pedal is depressed.

Next stop off for the fat purple wire is C500 back by the battery. Pull off that little cover and use the tip to probe through the black crap and touch the wire. Again you should have voltage there when the key is turned to start and the clutch pedal is depressed.

Finally the other end of that section of the fat purple wire is at the starter. Voltage when the key is turned and the pedal is depressed.
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post08-20-2013 05:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Might be battery acid on the battery terminals. Have the battery tested or last resort is the ignition switch (not the key switch).
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NetCam
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Report this Post08-20-2013 06:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NetCamClick Here to visit NetCam's HomePageSend a Private Message to NetCamEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
As you can see, there are lots of possible causes here. With mine, it was the clutch safety switch. You can easily test this by pulling the connector off and jumping it with a paper clip, which is what I did, and then got a short piece of wire and soldered 2 male blade connectors on it and made it permanent. Always remember to put my clutch in when I start

//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/122687.html
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85 SE VIN 9
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Report this Post08-20-2013 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Click Here to Email 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is the weather hot there right now? The ignition push rod can bind between the ignition switch and the steering column. The heat can make this worse. You could try spraying some freezeoff between the top of the steering column and the dash. You could also spray white lithium grease or another lubricant down the same place. Hopefully you haven't forced the key. This can break the ignition pushrod follower, which is easy enough to find on a help card at your autoparts store, but requires renting tools to take the column apart.

The last time I had this problem on my 'new' 85 Fiero it turned out the neutral safety switch had been bypassed and I had just kicked it loose. Btw, if you hear a ratcheting sound when you push the clutch in the neutral safety switch may be stripped. You can fix this with a wire bread tie. Just wrap it around the long thing to stop the nut or to replace it.

Unless you're like one of the creatures in Men In Black with a really small head you're never going to get it anywhere near the ignition switch.
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