So i finally got my fiero into my work to have a mechanic to a heart transplant on her. straight duke swap. So he got it up on the lift today and first thing he encountered was the driver side rear cradle bolt rusted out and is broke free so all it does is spin in place. He was able to get the right side broke free but after having a look in the frame with a video camera its looking like 2-3 hours to fix/ remove this bolt? Even at my discounted labor rate thats adding up to a bit more than i like Anyone have any ideas of how to fix this problem to save some time... I attached a pic of the bolt in question.



Thanks

//www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090907-2-082616.html

Thanks after searching around i realized the only solution was to cut an access hole like such. Shouldnt take him too long to fix tomorrow. Do you guys recommend new bolt's then? And fresh nuts on the rear, since those appear to just be sold as bolts...

Thanks

I used the method in the thread attached by Gall and it works. I've never done it before and it probably took 30-45 minutes to cut the hole put a vice grip on the witches hat and take the bolt out. another 30 minutes to put Rodney's new piece in it's place. A mechanic can certainly do it faster than me.

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1986 Fiero GT Fastback 3.4Lpr with 4T60
1979 Naked Honda Goldwing

http://rodneydickman.com/ca....php?products_id=276

Is that new plate needed? The passenger side is ok for now and just the driver failed. Dont have cash right now to order that kit... Is there a way to re secure that nut/bolt without that rodney kit? Passenger side is holding for now? Driver failed... Does that kit come with all the hardware? It looks like plate bolts down to the frame and the new cradle mount bolts to the large center nut correct? Does it come with a new cradle bolt

Thanks

[This message has been edited by ShaneSAW (edited 08-19-2013).]

Just had the same thing happen to me this weekend pulling my 2.5 from my 88. Unfortunately, it happened on both sides. I did the cut myself, only took a few minutes to open it up. Then lots of PB Blaster, heat, a pipe wrench and a breaker bar on the ratchet and finally got them out. I'll be changing the bolts and nuts. If you don't reweld the flap then you won't need the kit, but the kit does look to be a better, more permanent option.



Good luck!

I've cut the hole and used 1/2" grade 8 bolts with a backing plate and a split washer/nut inside the frame on many occasions with great results and low cost.

Ya i wont re weld the slot for now. So i can just get new hardware and as long as i have access to the nut it can be tightened correct? And i wont need to go with the rodney kit for now.

quote Originally posted by ShaneSAW: Ya i wont re weld the slot for now. So i can just get new hardware and as long as i have access to the nut it can be tightened correct? And i wont need to go with the rodney kit for now.

Personally, I recommend doing it once, and doing it right. Rodney's kit is doing it right. What side is the problem on? I have half of a Rodney kit here from when we did just the driver's side of a car.

Edit to add....I see you already answered that, and my half won't help you.

[This message has been edited by CowsPatoot (edited 08-20-2013).]

Hmm, so for those of us who havent removed out cradle bolts yet, or dont plan to soon. Would it be a good idea to stick the straw of a PB blaster can thru a small hole and spray it down in there with penetrating oil? For future ease?

quote Originally posted by CowsPatoot: Personally, I recommend doing it once, and doing it right. Rodney's kit is doing it right. What side is the problem on? I have half of a Rodney kit here from when we did just the driver's side of a car. Edit to add....I see you already answered that, and my half won't help you.

Ya i need driver bummer that would have worked nice. I know rodneys kit is the right way but for now he is going to swap the engine and then this winter ill order that kit and replace both rear bolts and weld up the frame my self..

quote Originally posted by 2.5: Hmm, so for those of us who havent removed out cradle bolts yet, or dont plan to soon. Would it be a good idea to stick the straw of a PB blaster can thru a small hole and spray it down in there with penetrating oil? For future ease?

I tried that before I removed mine and it was too little too late. I could have sprayed two cans and it wouldn't have made a difference. Not to say it won't on yours or someone elses but I think in most cases (this far north) those things are going to break loose no matter what is done and the hole in the frame is going to be needed to get it out. I really was hoping not to, but now that I've done one, it's not all that bad.

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1986 Fiero GT Fastback 3.4Lpr with 4T60
1979 Naked Honda Goldwing

I was replacing my cradle bushings as part of my swap...

I cut the bolt head off the stuck bolt, removed the rear bumper and impact absorber (wicked easy to do) Reached in the lower frame rail and grabbed the spinning nut and the bolt and pulled it out.

I put it in a vice and torched it and used vice grips to get the bolt out.

Then I welded long plate the same width to the bottom of the nuts and drilled a hole for the bolt to pass through. The long plate stops the nut from spinning.

I could have welded it but just in case everything would not line up perfectly I left it free floating. It has worked great, I will probably weld it in the future because I don't think it matters much to give it that freedom. I will probably cut the side open to weld it, and I will also paint the inside of that frame rail at the same time.

Well my tech got the rears but now the front bolts are seized and he thinks because of the hardened steel a saw zaw wont do anything and is concerned about using a torch? Man this isnt starting out good...

I used a cheap electric cut off wheel. went right through the bolt. might take one wheel per side. took just minutes to cut through.

Why would he use a sawzall? There is no reason the front bolts should not come off, take off the lower rockers behind the doors and you have impact wrench access to the front bolts. Done boom.

And if he has to there is nothing wrong with using a torch just put a sheet of metal in front of the coolant hose there is nothing else there to get in the way.

Or use CRCs freeze off and read the directions, I have yet to have that stuff fail for me.

And if that all doesn't work (unlikely) then use a cutoff wheel on the bolt and if the bolt is seized to the sleeve you will need to use a pneumatic hammer but that will get it out for sure. Knock it a little one direction, cut off whatever sticks out, then knock it back in and the cradle will slide right out.

I think this guy might be BSing you because all this stuff never took me that long and it was all stuck the first time I tried to get the cradle out, and I am not a professional, nor do I have all the shop tools he does.

Also you can do the whole swap out the top without removing the cradle.

Also it is pretty easy to bend the metal ears up front. If he can cut the bolt off and grind the bolt down pretty close then if he bends the ears a little it should pop right out

[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 08-20-2013).]

quote Originally posted by zkhennings: Also you can do the whole swap out the top without removing the cradle.

I'm thinking of taking the 2.5L out of an '86, leaving the 5 speed trans in, & dropping an '87 2.5L in. Have you done that?

Thanks guys, he isn't b/sing me he is just being cautious and this is new for him. Like i said this is being done at my work which is a chevy/dodge dealer so why i trust the guy he and he is fully capable and has the tools this is a first for him and me... Removing that rocker wouldn't be something him or me would have thought of.. Also as for cutting the bolt, bolt the nut and head of the bolt are fairly recessed into the rotted bushing to i dont see how even getting a cut off wheel in there is feasible? Any way its nearing winter here in MN, so instead of investing a ton of money into my fiero before it sits in storage and with my wedding fast approaching (december) im pulling the plug on the swap until later in the winter, then she will be ready to roll for next fall.

Thanks for all the help, at least now he has an idea of whats going to go into the swap and so do i.