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E brake - what to do before start using again? by John W. Tilford
Started on: 08-10-2013 09:35 PM
Replies: 7 (176 views)
Last post by: John W. Tilford on 08-12-2013 09:20 PM
John W. Tilford
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Report this Post08-10-2013 09:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for John W. TilfordClick Here to visit John W. Tilford's HomePageClick Here to Email John W. TilfordSend a Private Message to John W. TilfordEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I haven't used the emergency brake on my last three Fieros since my first one had the brake freeze "on" in Milwaukee at 17 degrees F in 1995. Now I find out that periodic use is needed to adjust the rear brakes. So . . just jack up my current 88GT, squirt everything I see around the cables with silicone grease, and work the handle up and down a few times? What else do I need to be aware of?
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theogre
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Report this Post08-11-2013 08:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Get new cables. Both wheels and maybe main.
Lube likely won't work and wrong lube just make any problem worse.

Ebrake use needed means rear piston(s) is dieing or dead and everything to "adjust" them is band-aide at best.

See my Cave, Rear Brakes

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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John W. Tilford
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Report this Post08-12-2013 10:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for John W. TilfordClick Here to visit John W. Tilford's HomePageClick Here to Email John W. TilfordSend a Private Message to John W. TilfordEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ogre, thank you. Unnerstan replace cables.
But please translate "Ebrake use needed means rear piston(s) is dieing or dead and everything to "adjust" them is band-aide at best" into Hoosier?
As far as I can tell from driving, front and rear brakes are currently functional. 'Have not had any panic stops for years, though.

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John W. Tilford

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theogre
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Report this Post08-12-2013 01:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Please read the brake section in cave.
88 is same design piston in a different caliper outside...

1 method Adjustment is in cave but It might not work in 88. Most cases if any method, including hand brake use, works means rear piston(s) have problems.

Bad rear piston can work to stop a car but cause low pedal because system won't self-adjust. Many old cars w/ drum brake have problem because self-adjust screw gets rust etc. and cause low pedal. In drum brakes, you can clean/replace the screw. The parts that dies in Fiero is inside the rear piston.

"rust" inside the screw hole causing binding etc then best is get another caliper. One scratch inside the hole will cause problems for sealing the screw.
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John W. Tilford
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Report this Post08-12-2013 03:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for John W. TilfordClick Here to visit John W. Tilford's HomePageClick Here to Email John W. TilfordSend a Private Message to John W. TilfordEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Youse knot makin' this stuff up, is yue? Nah, I totally believe you. Ah'll check what's going on back there.

Reminds me of a 1960s-era comment regarding Mercedes: if a cotter pin would work, Mercedes would engineer a counter-sunk set screw with an inaccessible wire-down. Everything over-engineered.

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John W. Tilford

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Gall757
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Report this Post08-12-2013 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
John, you have a PM
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cmechmann
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Report this Post08-12-2013 08:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cmechmannClick Here to Email cmechmannSend a Private Message to cmechmannEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
He is not making it up.
Take a screw/bolt and put a large nut on it. On the nut you have a cone shaped cap that pushes against the inside of the piston, applying ebrake. Three things happen to these pistons, that make it where they have to be replaced. You can rebuild the caliper, but you have to replace piston.
First, piston center button area leaking. This is internal to the piston.
Second, Cone assembly is not returning to rest position.
Then, Nut stuck on cone.
The cone and nut make up a racket assembly. When it comes out of adjustment the cone allows the nut to get another click on the bolt. the next application has to make the cone contact the inside/back of the piston or the racket just clicks back. When installing new pads, if the Hydralic part of the piston is applied before setting the Ebrake section the, the cone never touches the piston. The piston would have to be pushed back against the cone, with some tension against the piston, then using the lever on the caliper you can adjust the piston to the pad. If the pad wears down enough before the piston has a chance to, bump it up a notch, it won't adjust further.
You would have to back the piston against the cone again. That's just to keep it adjusted if extended too far.
Now you take into account the crude it has seen and the last time the guts of it have seen light, most likely you need one.

OK
Disconnect the cables at the adjusting flange. If you want you can remove them from the caliper if you want but not really needed to check. Use something to grab each caliper cable and make sure the levers pull and return. By hand you should be able to apply the hand brake and pull the main/center cable back down.
I put a pair of needle nose vise grips to make the next easier. Move the cable levers as far to stop as you can. If the lever stops half way or less and the piston is against the pad it is adjusted.
If the lever goes almost to the end. Try applying the lever by hand to get it to move out. May have to do it quick to get the racket to move. If it still won't adjust(bad piston) Sticking nut
And if the lever goes all the way to stop. place something between the piston and the pad to move the piston back against the cone.
Again by hand, apply the lever to attempt to adjust. If not (bad piston) Sticking cone.

[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 08-12-2013).]

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John W. Tilford
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Report this Post08-12-2013 09:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for John W. TilfordClick Here to visit John W. Tilford's HomePageClick Here to Email John W. TilfordSend a Private Message to John W. TilfordEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks to all above. Not shur when can get under the 88GT to apply what you've all taught me, but I'm saving the text for future use.

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John W. Tilford

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