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Brake Problems on 85 2M4 by PurpleGryphon
Started on: 08-01-2013 08:26 PM
Replies: 15 (334 views)
Last post by: PurpleGryphon on 08-06-2013 04:18 PM
PurpleGryphon
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Report this Post08-01-2013 08:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PurpleGryphonSend a Private Message to PurpleGryphonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
One of the first things I noticed when I test drove my car before buying it is that the brakes are weak. There's pedal pressure, but it's not as great as it should be. The brakes just don't stop the car well. We originally thought the breaks just needed to be worked a little, but after putting 40 miles on the car, they've not gotten any better. When traveling at 30 mph, a full-on brake application leisurely slows the car to soft stop. If I had to brake hard in an emergency situation, I wouldn't trust them.

As of right now, I can't get the wheels off because the lugs are spline-drive and require a key (it'll be here tomorrow). However, from what I can see, the entire brake assembly is aftermarket (drilled rotors, black powder-coated calipers, braided steel lines in the wheel wells). We topped off the brake fluid, and at this point are thinking we should just replace the pads and bleed the lines. What do you guys think?

Here are some pics, to better show what condition the hardware's in. Remember, best I can do until the key comes and I can get the wheels off.



















The liquid is WD-4, to help get the bleeder screws off later.





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tebailey
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Report this Post08-01-2013 08:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Try new pads, some one has upgraded the brakes with drilled and slotted rotors. They may have installed ceramic pads, they only work good when they are hot. Lousy when cold.
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PurpleGryphon
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Report this Post08-01-2013 09:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PurpleGryphonSend a Private Message to PurpleGryphonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Okay, good to know. Do those rotors look like the stock size? I don't want to get stock pads and have them not fit the setup.
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pontiacfierokid1985
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Report this Post08-01-2013 09:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pontiacfierokid1985Click Here to visit pontiacfierokid1985's HomePageClick Here to Email pontiacfierokid1985Send a Private Message to pontiacfierokid1985Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yea rotors are def stock size if ur using the factory calipers u would need different calipers if you had a bigger rotor
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tuggajb
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Report this Post08-01-2013 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tuggajbClick Here to Email tuggajbSend a Private Message to tuggajbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
New pads really don't know how old and hard the pads are

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PurpleGryphon
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Report this Post08-01-2013 10:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PurpleGryphonSend a Private Message to PurpleGryphonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Okay, that'll be the next order of business then. Finally got the title today, and put insurance on it. Plates tomorrow. Then brakes, and she's on the road!
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post08-02-2013 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hard to say, but you may have to rebuild/buy new calipers. Is the e-brake functional? This could mean that the rear calipers are not adjusting if things are froze up. Anyway, you should probably pull everything and clean/inspect/replace.
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chorcob
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Report this Post08-02-2013 10:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for chorcobSend a Private Message to chorcobEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Maybe the one of the pads is stuck and wont press on the rotor.
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theogre
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Report this Post08-03-2013 12:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
First, See my Cave, Brake Service

Start w/ Turn or replace the rotors and get new pads.
Rotors have rust that will cause problems.

Likely have problem after that...
Bad calipers
Bad MC and/or booster
Bad booster filter. (In booster's vac line on rear firewall.)

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(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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PurpleGryphon
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Report this Post08-03-2013 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PurpleGryphonSend a Private Message to PurpleGryphonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The e-brake is not functional. I haven't had a chance to look up front, but in back the cable is rusted off where it leaves the chassis to go to the breaks. Based on what I'm hearing/reading, replacing this should be a priority, then?

I'll get the pads changed and rotors turned, and hope that solves my problem. Wish I had the money to do more.
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Patrick
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Report this Post08-03-2013 04:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by PurpleGryphon:

I'll get the pads changed and rotors turned, and hope that solves my problem. Wish I had the money to do more.


Perhaps I've just been fortunate with the three Fieros (so far) I've resurrected which had sat for years, but I've never had to turn the rotors. I've just used a wire wheel and cleaned all the rust and crud off.
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PurpleGryphon
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Report this Post08-03-2013 04:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PurpleGryphonSend a Private Message to PurpleGryphonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I may attempt that first. The contact area on the rotors looks good, it's just the rest of them that's a little rough.

Got a wheel off today, and the bleeder screw actually turned. Gonna try to get new pads on it this evening. If I can't use the pedal to bleed the system (per Ogre's site), how long does the gravity bleed take? It sounds painfully slow.
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Patrick
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Report this Post08-03-2013 04:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by PurpleGryphon:

Got a wheel off today, and the bleeder screw actually turned.


I hope you're soaking those bleeder screws with penetrating oil for at least a day before you try turning them. Nothing wil ruin your day like snapping off a steel bleeder screw in an aluminum caliper.

 
quote
Originally posted by PurpleGryphon:

If I can't use the pedal to bleed the system (per Ogre's site), how long does the gravity bleed take? It sounds painfully slow.


Are you in a big hurry? Seriously though, if you end up having to use this method, give it some time. You'll be able to judge how long it'll take by observing how quickly (or not) the drain container takes to fill. I haven't done it for awhile, but it seems to me it wasn't all that bad. IMO, pressure bleeding is the only way to go.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-03-2013).]

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jaskispyder
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Report this Post08-03-2013 04:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have bleed fieros with using the pedal.
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PurpleGryphon
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Report this Post08-03-2013 09:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PurpleGryphonSend a Private Message to PurpleGryphonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Soaked it for two or three days, actually. Still snapped off. :\ Grr...
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PurpleGryphon
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Report this Post08-06-2013 04:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PurpleGryphonSend a Private Message to PurpleGryphonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, took it over to my friend's shop. Changed the pads and greased up the calipers. The brakes are great now.
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