One of the first things I noticed when I test drove my car before buying it is that the brakes are weak. There's pedal pressure, but it's not as great as it should be. The brakes just don't stop the car well. We originally thought the breaks just needed to be worked a little, but after putting 40 miles on the car, they've not gotten any better. When traveling at 30 mph, a full-on brake application leisurely slows the car to soft stop. If I had to brake hard in an emergency situation, I wouldn't trust them.
As of right now, I can't get the wheels off because the lugs are spline-drive and require a key (it'll be here tomorrow). However, from what I can see, the entire brake assembly is aftermarket (drilled rotors, black powder-coated calipers, braided steel lines in the wheel wells). We topped off the brake fluid, and at this point are thinking we should just replace the pads and bleed the lines. What do you guys think?
Here are some pics, to better show what condition the hardware's in. Remember, best I can do until the key comes and I can get the wheels off.
The liquid is WD-4, to help get the bleeder screws off later.
Try new pads, some one has upgraded the brakes with drilled and slotted rotors. They may have installed ceramic pads, they only work good when they are hot. Lousy when cold.
Okay, that'll be the next order of business then. Finally got the title today, and put insurance on it. Plates tomorrow. Then brakes, and she's on the road!
Hard to say, but you may have to rebuild/buy new calipers. Is the e-brake functional? This could mean that the rear calipers are not adjusting if things are froze up. Anyway, you should probably pull everything and clean/inspect/replace.
Start w/ Turn or replace the rotors and get new pads. Rotors have rust that will cause problems.
Likely have problem after that... Bad calipers Bad MC and/or booster Bad booster filter. (In booster's vac line on rear firewall.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The e-brake is not functional. I haven't had a chance to look up front, but in back the cable is rusted off where it leaves the chassis to go to the breaks. Based on what I'm hearing/reading, replacing this should be a priority, then?
I'll get the pads changed and rotors turned, and hope that solves my problem. Wish I had the money to do more.
I'll get the pads changed and rotors turned, and hope that solves my problem. Wish I had the money to do more.
Perhaps I've just been fortunate with the three Fieros (so far) I've resurrected which had sat for years, but I've never had to turn the rotors. I've just used a wire wheel and cleaned all the rust and crud off.
I may attempt that first. The contact area on the rotors looks good, it's just the rest of them that's a little rough.
Got a wheel off today, and the bleeder screw actually turned. Gonna try to get new pads on it this evening. If I can't use the pedal to bleed the system (per Ogre's site), how long does the gravity bleed take? It sounds painfully slow.
Got a wheel off today, and the bleeder screw actually turned.
I hope you're soaking those bleeder screws with penetrating oil for at least a day before you try turning them. Nothing wil ruin your day like snapping off a steel bleeder screw in an aluminum caliper.
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Originally posted by PurpleGryphon:
If I can't use the pedal to bleed the system (per Ogre's site), how long does the gravity bleed take? It sounds painfully slow.
Are you in a big hurry? Seriously though, if you end up having to use this method, give it some time. You'll be able to judge how long it'll take by observing how quickly (or not) the drain container takes to fill. I haven't done it for awhile, but it seems to me it wasn't all that bad. IMO, pressure bleeding is the only way to go.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-03-2013).]
