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Grinding/rubbing after strut install by CodeSlinger
Started on: 07-28-2013 02:30 PM
Replies: 12 (470 views)
Last post by: CodeSlinger on 08-01-2013 11:23 AM
CodeSlinger
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Report this Post07-28-2013 02:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CodeSlingerClick Here to Email CodeSlingerSend a Private Message to CodeSlingerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yesterday I replaced my original/stock struts with some Monroe Sensatrac struts. The passenger side lower bolt gave me some trouble and took me like 40 minutes to remove. I was able to get er done and get the car into the shop for an alignment today. However, (isnt there always a however) I'm hearing some like grinding that increases with speed on the side that was giving me some grief.

Any ideas?

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Blacktree
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Report this Post07-28-2013 02:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You may have accidentally tweaked the brake rotor shield in the process. You might want to check it and see if it's rubbing.
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Raydar
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Report this Post07-29-2013 06:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

You may have accidentally tweaked the brake rotor shield in the process. You might want to check it and see if it's rubbing.


Second this. Makes a hell of a noise.
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post07-29-2013 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I agree. Allso make sure you installed the Caliper boltes correctly, in rare instances. One bolt may be in and the other slightly off. Even though it feels like they were both installed correctly. When you installed the brake caliper,did you compress the piston with a C-Clamp like your supposed to? If you forced the caliper on, then its probubley too tight.
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CodeSlinger
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Report this Post07-29-2013 02:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CodeSlingerClick Here to Email CodeSlingerSend a Private Message to CodeSlingerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by James Bond 007:

I agree. Allso make sure you installed the Caliper boltes correctly, in rare instances. One bolt may be in and the other slightly off. Even though it feels like they were both installed correctly. When you installed the brake caliper,did you compress the piston with a C-Clamp like your supposed to? If you forced the caliper on, then its probubley too tight.


That's the thing, I didn't take off the caliper. However, the rear caliper and rotors/pads are new (6 months ago replaced by repair shop before I owned it). When I went back to check the dust guards, they were not rubbing at all. But the wheel was tough to turn, like the brakes were slightly on. I'm not sure what the heck to think about that. I have not used the ebrake in the car yet as the repair shop indicated that the cables were binding. I have a new cable and Rodney's tool, so I'll probably get around to the ebrake cables this weekend. Wonder if that's the problem?

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trotterlg
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Report this Post07-29-2013 04:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trotterlgClick Here to Email trotterlgSend a Private Message to trotterlgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Probably not the cables. Likely the rubber inner part of the break line at the wheel has collapsed, it acts like a check valve and doesn't let the fluid return to the master so the breaks stay on a little. To test it crack the blead valve a tiny bit and see if letting a little fluid out doesn't release the pads. Larry
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post07-29-2013 05:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
might allso be a bad axle bearing. Can you tell if the vehicle is pulling to the right or left? How does your brake pedal feel?
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CodeSlinger
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Report this Post07-30-2013 12:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CodeSlingerClick Here to Email CodeSlingerSend a Private Message to CodeSlingerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by James Bond 007:

might allso be a bad axle bearing. Can you tell if the vehicle is pulling to the right or left? How does your brake pedal feel?


So the left side seems fine, but on a right turn I hear what might be the brake dust cover scraping. I'll look at that. However, the right side is the one with the tight wheel and the one that I had trouble getting the camber bolt out of. I hit the snot out of that bold with a mini sledge, but I cant imagine how that would affect the brake. Weird thing is that the noise does change when I use/release the brakes. That could still be brakes or bearings I guess.

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Arns85GT
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Report this Post07-30-2013 02:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The dust shield can erode your disk if left scraping. Check it from the bottom not from the top.

Arn
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post07-30-2013 06:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Arns85GT:
The dust shield can erode your disk if left scraping. Check it from the bottom not from the top.
Arn

I agree, be sure to check the bottom of the dust shield, a mirror will help. Brake fluid obsorbs moisture and causes internal rust in the brake calipers,this rust will cause the brakes to stick.Check the dust shield first. The brake calipers are usualley replaced in sets (two).
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CodeSlinger
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Report this Post07-30-2013 07:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CodeSlingerClick Here to Email CodeSlingerSend a Private Message to CodeSlingerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by James Bond 007:

I agree, be sure to check the bottom of the dust shield, a mirror will help. Brake fluid obsorbs moisture and causes internal rust in the brake calipers,this rust will cause the brakes to stick.Check the dust shield first. The brake calipers are usualley replaced in sets (two).


Calipers, pads and rotors are new (couple months old).

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James Bond 007
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Report this Post07-31-2013 10:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Im a bit confused. You say "the rear caliper and rotors/pads are new". What about the front? Are those new too? Otherwise Ide say its a sticking brake caliper up front. Try jacking up the car and manually rotateing the tire.
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CodeSlinger
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Report this Post08-01-2013 11:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CodeSlingerClick Here to Email CodeSlingerSend a Private Message to CodeSlingerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by James Bond 007:

Im a bit confused. You say "the rear caliper and rotors/pads are new". What about the front? Are those new too? Otherwise Ide say its a sticking brake caliper up front. Try jacking up the car and manually rotateing the tire.


The mystery was solved yesterday, driving down the highway when I lost brake pedal pressure and my brake light came on. Thankfully the fronts worked and I was able to stop without incident. The strange noise I was hearing at lower speeds was the right-rear brake line rubbing against the tire. It's hard to see when the tire is on and it's just not happening when the tire is off. Silly rookie mistake that I should have known better. I've only been working on cars for like 25 years Doh!

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