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RPM needle bounces upwards, then car dies. by Austrian Import
Started on: 07-22-2013 03:05 PM
Replies: 14 (252 views)
Last post by: RilesOfSmiles on 08-25-2013 10:15 AM
Austrian Import
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Report this Post07-22-2013 03:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My friend suggested it was the MAP sensor and the car ran better with the new one. Now it did the exact same thing again.

Car displays code 32, and Code 22.
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Report this Post07-22-2013 03:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Austrian Import

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When trying to crank the car the RPM needle doesn't move. The ignition module together with the entire distributor is less than 4000miles old.
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Austrian Import
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Report this Post07-22-2013 03:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Austrian Import

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Yes. I know code 32 is EGR/vacuum leak and Code 22 is MAP sensor.
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92wastheyear
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Report this Post07-22-2013 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 92wastheyearClick Here to Email 92wastheyearSend a Private Message to 92wastheyearEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What engine do you have?

Code 22 is the Throttle Position Sensor (low voltage) and Code 32 is the EGR code

[This message has been edited by 92wastheyear (edited 07-22-2013).]

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Austrian Import
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Report this Post07-22-2013 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That was from memory. 2.8 V6

I unplugged and plugged back in ECU reset, MAP sensor, TPS, Idle control, coil. (In that order) them the car started right back up.

A loose coil plug wouldn't cause that. Would it?
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carbon
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Report this Post07-22-2013 03:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Austrian Import:

The ignition module together with the entire distributor is less than 4000miles old.


Doesn't matter.

If there is no tach movement when cranking and the tach signal goes nuts right before it dies... I wouldn't look for anything else before getting a new a properly installed (heatsink compound, not dielectric grease, used) ACDelco ignition control module.

But that's just me...
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Austrian Import
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Report this Post07-22-2013 06:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
We'll it started just fine after replacing all the connectors. I'm wondering if a bad connection on the coil wire would cause the same symptoms.. Since it goes from the Ignition module to the coil.

I have to admit, I made the naive assumption that the assembly was built correctly and they did use some good heat sink compound.

On my other cars I use arctic silver now. Probably overkill, but why not?

So what makes the rpm needle peak upwards when driving under load or Javier throttle?

What are usual symptoms of MAP sensor failure?

Of TPS sensor failure?

[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 07-22-2013).]

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Austrian Import
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Report this Post07-24-2013 05:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Oh, another thing I noticed that through the course odnthe last year my car gets 16.7mpg-19.9mpg. About this time a year ago I got 25mpg-30mpg. What the hell is wrong with my car?

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theogre
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Report this Post07-24-2013 05:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
pull tach filter when HEI has problems... Bad filter can cause all kinds of weirdness

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Report this Post07-24-2013 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
HEI? I have a 2.8 V6. *confused*
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Austrian Import
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Report this Post07-24-2013 06:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'll unplug it and see what happens. Still doesn't explain the rest of the symptoms. (Jerking in sync with with the bouncing. - problem going away when replugging the filter. Lack of power, terrible gas mileage, etc.)
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Report this Post08-17-2013 06:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not the tach sensor. Unplugged it, same symptoms of car engine cutting out. Usually around the 4k rpm mark. (or by sound when the tach filter is unplugged)
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CowsPatoot
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Report this Post08-18-2013 12:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CowsPatootClick Here to visit CowsPatoot's HomePageSend a Private Message to CowsPatootEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Austrian Import:
same symptoms of car engine cutting out. Usually around the 4k rpm mark.


Definitely pull the ICM and have it tested...the ICM has low and high RPM parts in it and can burn up only one portion....4k is about where it switches. I have had several that ran great right up to about 4k, then it was like I hit a rev limiter.
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Report this Post08-25-2013 03:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Austrian ImportClick Here to Email Austrian ImportSend a Private Message to Austrian ImportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by CowsPatoot:
Definitely pull the ICM and have it tested...the ICM has low and high RPM parts in it and can burn up only one portion....4k is about where it switches. I have had several that ran great right up to about 4k, then it was like I hit a rev limiter.


Good to know. Kinda scary though as the ICM is less than 7k miles old and was replaced as an assembly with the distributor.
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RilesOfSmiles
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Report this Post08-25-2013 10:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RilesOfSmilesClick Here to Email RilesOfSmilesSend a Private Message to RilesOfSmilesEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Austrian Import:


Good to know. Kinda scary though as the ICM is less than 7k miles old and was replaced as an assembly with the distributor.


Thats your problem right there! The ICMs that come with aftermarket distributors are garbage. You need to get an AC delco ICM. The problem is that it gets very hot in that area and burns up the modules. The AC delco ICMs are built to withstand the heat. I replaced my distributor and the ICM that came with it failed after 2,000 miles! Same symptoms as you no tach during cranking.
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