I recently swapped a 3.4 dohc engine into my Fiero based Corson Spyder. It's run well for a few weeks, but when I went to start it this afternoon, it wouldn't fire up.
The engine turns over smoothly and the fuel pressure is good (Read with a mechanical gauge at the fuel rail entrance,) so I'm assuming the fuel feed is good and that the problem is due to no spark. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Where's a good place to start troubleshooting?
Throw some starting fluid down it's throat. If it does not at least fire, that confirms no spark. After that start chasing power leads to make sure you have power to the ignition module. Also check wires from the crank sensor on side of block to the coils.
------------------ Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!
The engine turns over smoothly and the fuel pressure is good (Read with a mechanical gauge at the fuel rail entrance,) so I'm assuming the fuel feed is good and that the problem is due to no spark. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Where's a good place to start troubleshooting?
Thanks.
First I am not an expert....this is just my opinion!
Never assume! You have fuel pressure, but are the injectors firing?? Could still be fuel related. Is it flooding during extended cranking? Smell fuel?
The only way to determine if you are getting spark is to test it.......IK checking plugs in a DOHC 3.4=pain in the,....well you already know.
It's not even trying to fire. If it doesn't respond to the starting fluid, I'll start tracking the loss of spark (Thanks, Dave.) IF IT DOES RESPOND TO THE STARTING FLUID, I'll start looking into the injectors.
How and where did you mount the coils? Do they have a good ground? What year DOHC did you use? The wires on the 24X crank sensor behind the balancer (94 and up) can be damaged easily (ask me how I know this). I would focus on the ignition module first.
------------------ 1986 SE Aero coupe.
3.4 DOHC swap is complete and running, now just have to finish the rest of the car...
It's a '92 engine with the coils mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay. None of the plug wires are very long and the engine ran fine for the first few weeks. Might be worth check the ground on the coil pack.
Well, I just towed her to the body shop for some paint touch up and door adjustments. I'm heading to Florida with the family for a week and my paint/body man had a window of time, so I'm taking advantage. This gives me a week to plan my troubleshooting strategy. Any suggestions are appreciated.
I can hear the fuel pump run when I turn on the ignition and I have the correct fuel pressure (I have a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in front of the fuel rail.) All that being said, it's easy enough to check the fuse. I suppose the fuel pump could be making noise, but malfunctioning, and the fuel pressure is maintained for a long period after the engine is shut down. However, it's more likely to be injectors not opening or no spark.
I'm on vacation this week. I found an old thread that indicated the Fuel Pump fuse, Ignition fuse and Injector F1 & F2 fuses need to be replaced with higher current fuses with this swap. I'll verify this with Eric (Who did the harness.) The solution may be just that easy (Fingers crossed.)
