After working on the kids fiero all day sat I got my engine on the engine stand and the cradle in the shop on the cradle stand. With the kids pile out of the shop I have some room!
I talked the the guy at the machine shop. he said he rods are OK !! ?? He said mabe the crank kit came with the wrong bearing. Now I need to get the block to him. I stripped the block to night. It's ready to go.
I can't SEE any problems with the flex plate, but it will have to be checked. I did work on the engine compartment. When i dropped the drive line out this time the heater hose/pipe got hung up on some thing. It was bent down. I had to rework that. In cutting the pipe off I used the sawsall and poked a tinny hole in the bottom corner of the gas tank. But I did get the heater pipe/hose fixed. Than I spent a little time tying up battery cables, fuel lines, heater hose/pipes, and the N02 feed line. Now with it routed more directly I had it long enough to run the pair of solenoid in the rear of the trunk, down low, hard to see. I ran the feed line through the out-board, top of the strut tower. I have coil overs so I have lots of room. The fuel line to the solenoids will run from the fuel regulater, down to the frame rail and into the trunk just above the rail. I will run the pair of lines back to the nozzle in the same hole.
[This message has been edited by FFIEROFRED (edited 05-12-2013).]
Their is a light at the end of the tunnel! The machine shop checked the flex plate. It was not cracked. BUT, the guy said it looked like it had been loose. That would explain the nose. Now when I put it together I got the flex plate bolts as tight as I could. The flex plate-to-crank adapter sticks through the flex plate about 1/8 inch. this was making it real hard to realy get the bolts tight. I had the machine shop cut that part down to be flush with the face of the flex plate. Now all I have to do it put it back together and put it back in the car,..........again. the wife is going home to see her mom for 60 DAYS! I will get some work done on the car !!!
You and me both! I have the drive line back together. I just have to put the TC bolts in. We are going to stuff it back in the car this week end. I didn't have to buy one bolt. When I took it apart i bagged every thing in big freezer bags and put them in ONE big container. I am getting to good at this! The kid got his S2 3800sc/4T65 fiero swap into his car 2 weekends ago. Than we found out the trans lever would not move! mSop last weekend we puled it all out, removed engine, pulled the trans off the cradle, took the end pan off, took the shift shaft out. Cleaned it up, now it works. He is going to get it moving friday. I just might get my car to move by monday. All my car has to do is beat him.
I ordered a few things from summit this week. One of the things was a switch to go on the carb that turns on the NO2 @ WOT. This is small and goes on the card on what is the front side of it. At car shows and cruzin's the rear is what you can see. OFF,
ON, The water manifold that goes on the front of the block is a ***** to get on. It can not be on when the engine goes in or out. It fits the frame rail. I want to go with "AN" fittings. I ordered some AN 10 to 1/2 inch npt. When i bought the electric water pump it came with red, aluminum elbows that I don't need. I sawed them off and will mount the AN to pipe adapters in them. This will clear the frame rail and be a lot easyer to bolt on. I will make some thing that comes off the pump to mount the other end of the lines on.
I got it running with the TQ converter real tight. Still had the noise after it warmed up. when I first started it it was fine. I checked all the fluids, cleaned up the yard, drove it around to the front of the house and the kid tells me he can hear the noise again. I rev it up and their it is again. I have the kid wing it for me. It only makes the noise after you back off! At this point I am pissed! I take it around the block, it makes a lot of noise at first, but the more I run it the less it makes. I have the kid film it in front of the house. It is still bad, but getting less every time I run it. I told the kid I was going to do a "smoke test". He asked me what that was ? I hit it as hard as it would go, from idle, smoke the tires down the street for 100 feet. Come back, NO NOISE! That was on sat. On sunday the trans starts to not do any thing when you put it in gear ( some times). The kid had to push me home from 3 blocks away. The kid had just put his new driveline in his car so I got his old trans ( 4T60-e) and took the drive line out to change that. This was the 6th time the drive line came out with this engine, and the 3rd time on this tank of GAS!! I was having problems with the nice red starter so i ordered a new one. I also ordered new rear calipers/rotors/pads from rock auto. I put all the stuff on the car, fired it up and the noise is back louder than ever. Now I am really at wits end with this thing. I pick every thing up, went inside, got cleaned up and took a nap! ( worked when I was a kid) I had taken a 4 day weekend so i could do this thing with out killing my self. I am turning 65 on the 11th, and the temps are in the 90's and muggy. I took the time to think on it. I remembered that when i changed out the starter block I had left one of the bolts sticking out of the nut by 2 threads, ( so i could see it when it is installed) . I thought that maby this was hitting the TQ converter bolt heads. SO, jack it up, take a look. The bolt heads are not the problem. When i went to this newer engine ( 1990) to get the drivers side dip stick, I had to get a new flywheel with the weight on it. The weight sticks out just a little more than the bolt heads!!! So I took the starter out, counter sunk the nut, and NO noise !! finaly!!! Now the car starts, runs, and stops. With the new headers the engine is a rev happy thing. With the home made TPS working the trans shifts pretty good. Even in 2nd with the revs down it can get the car sideways if you are not carefull. The next week end I put all the stuff back in it so it was drivable. I took Adam ( the kid) for a ride. For the last 2 years I have had him telling me that I should just put a 3800SC engine in it. And how bad his V6 was going to be. He got his running and sorted out 2 weeks before this. All it took was one ride to sonic to change his tune. I parked it in the front yard so I could clean up the slab area, and mow before I move the duelly/car trailer back over to that side of the house. I mow, and than go over to start the fiero so i can put it back over on the slab so i can mow the front yard. I try to start it, I think it started so a back off the key, and it almost starts, and kicks back and does some thing to the new starter. It will not spin the engine! Now it is struck in the front yard, on the grass, untill I jack it up to see what it broke. I have lots of spare starter parts. Me and the kid are going to a car show on the 22nd of june, It has to start by than. AND to top off my week end, on friday the house's central A/C went belly up. That cost me $606 to have the fan blower motor replaced. Than the guy calls me back to say that the out side unit needed 3 pounds of freon. He said that was a bad thing. He found a big corroded spot ( it"s 12 years old). Now I have to replace the out side unit. He guy came out to the house on sat so I could talk to him face to face. I am going to have the whole systum replaced with a "Train", inside and out. They are not going to charge me the $606 because I am getting a whole new system from them. When they do this they will move it around to the back of the house, and put it on the slab I made for the house generater. I am having the "UV LIGHT" option installed that kills mold and fungus in the inside unit. This will help the wife. The power company will just add some thing to my monthly bill. The train systum is good for 30 years. I wish the fiero was as good. The next time it needs to be replaced it will be the kids problem!
I came home from work, jacked it up and took a look it what it was doing. Over night the starter unjamed, or what ever because now it would hit the side of the flywheel but not spin it. So i took the shims out and now it just grinds the tips of the teeth with out trying to spin the engine. To morrow I am going to put it back down and get some help to push it back on the slab so I can really get it back up in the air. Than I will try 2 of the 3 shims. Some thing has to work!
Nothing with the starter worked. We both tryed to move the flywheel with a 18 inch long screwdriver on the flywheel teeth. Just bends the screwdriver. I had taken to day ( friday ) off so I could tech in the car at the car show to day. So I pulled the driveline, remover the engine, took It apart. It had got water in it from the rain on monday. I haddn't covered the air cleaner. So it was a hydro lock. Bent a rod. Now I can get forged rods/pistons for it. The crank is alright, the bearings look good, so I must have fixed the oiling problem. satday I will put the cradle/trans back in it so it can roll and push it behind the house for a while.
I ordered the parts from summit to fix it, again. We had a rainy day to day but I worked on my "Indy Scoop" extention. The extention didn't come out as good as I liked so I have been filling and cutting on it to get it in shape. If I had this on the deck lid when the car was sitting in the front yard I would not have got water in it. I waxed the side of the scoop and put a layer of fiber glass on it were the box would join it. Than I glassed the box to that from the out side. After it went off and would hold the box in place I glassed in from the inside. Than I bolted through the both of them. It took a lot or work to get the box to look sort of right. Than I pulled the box off so I could clean were they join. They are painted with spry cans so I could see it all in one color.
