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Normal Wobble? by Stainless1911
Started on: 10-29-2012 02:28 PM
Replies: 66 (1244 views)
Last post by: Stainless1911 on 08-26-2013 11:21 AM
jaskispyder
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Report this Post11-30-2012 04:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Capt Fiero:

My Vote is rear toe link rods or rear wheel bearings.


Oh yeah, did you check your toe link rods and ball joints?

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Toontown Fiero
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Report this Post11-30-2012 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Toontown FieroSend a Private Message to Toontown FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That swaying is the same symptom I had after I bought my 86 and got it driveable. Going around a slight curve following rutted pavement scared the living daylights out of me. It was like the back tires had a steering wheel attached to them and somebody was jerking it back and forth.

I put it in the garage and set up strings to check the toe. The rear tires had too much toe in. Can't remember the exact numbers anymore. I set the front and rear toe as best I could and that sway was gone. Totally different car. I couldn't believe how the car behaved with the rear alignment out!

If you have time there are lots of threads and links here on how to check your own alignment so you can at least rule that out. Maybe rear wheel bearings or loose cradle. Sure seems similar to the problem I had.
Good luck!
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Report this Post11-30-2012 07:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDClick Here to Email FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Make sure they are not using " total toe in". You have to have 1/2 of it on each side. Are the ball joints loose in the "A" arm? Some thing is loose or warn out. check every thing. Take nothing for granted. get a crow bar and pry on every thing.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post11-30-2012 08:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Tires it’s the tires get new ones then get another alignment. Your ties are not worn evenly. I had the same problem when I bought just one new tire to pass inspection. But after a few hundred miles it stopped because the tire wore down.
Buy a new set of rear tires
Steve


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and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 11-30-2012).]

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Stainless1911
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Report this Post11-30-2012 09:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Rotated tires front to rear Problem still exists. Got in with a prybar as suggested, nothing is loose. All bushings ok. Upper control arms solid. Discovered right rear wheel bearing is bad.

I will look into the alignment threads, anyone have a good one they could suggest? I'm going to go see if I can "borrow" someones wheels for a quick test ride.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post12-01-2012 10:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:

Rotated tires front to rear Problem still exists. Got in with a prybar as suggested, nothing is loose. All bushings ok. Upper control arms solid. Discovered right rear wheel bearing is bad.

I will look into the alignment threads, anyone have a good one they could suggest? I'm going to go see if I can "borrow" someones wheels for a quick test ride.


That wheel bearing is all it would take to make it woble

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Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

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Report this Post12-01-2012 10:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jasonfoxSend a Private Message to jasonfoxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You were charged almost five times book hours on that alignment. I'd take them to small claims court for fraud.

Especially since another shop receipt shows the first place didn't even do the job right. Fairly solid case.

[This message has been edited by jasonfox (edited 12-01-2012).]

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Stainless1911
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Report this Post12-02-2012 12:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's been on my mind, believe me. I am trying to get my mom to do it, she's the one who lent me the money, via credit card, to have it done.

I have noticed that the rear wheels seem to point towards each other at the front of the wheels.
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Report this Post12-02-2012 12:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jasonfoxSend a Private Message to jasonfoxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:

It's been on my mind, believe me. I am trying to get my mom to do it, she's the one who lent me the money, via credit card, to have it done.

I have noticed that the rear wheels seem to point towards each other at the front of the wheels.


Well, whoever signed the final bill should file ASAP. Don't delay.
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jon m
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Report this Post12-02-2012 12:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
just a thought - if you or you had someone change the bushes to poly etc did you strip the hub fully? if so could it be that the drive shaft nut that secures the hub was torqued up properly?

jon
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post12-02-2012 12:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I changed the rubber out to poly myself, but I never broke the nut loose. The passenger side halfshaft was changed right before I got the car though, same side as the bad bearing.
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jon m
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Report this Post12-02-2012 02:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:

It's been on my mind, believe me. I am trying to get my mom to do it, she's the one who lent me the money, via credit card, to have it done.

I have noticed that the rear wheels seem to point towards each other at the front of the wheels.


this would suggest, assuming everything is bolted tight that the rear toe is out and needs to be redone (however your eyes alone cannot determine this - unless it is real bad and pretty obvious)
looked at your vid on youtube and mine was very similar to this after I dropped my enigne. it seem to dance around the lane - i went and got aligned and hasnt been a problem since.

good luck
jon
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Joseph Upson
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Report this Post12-02-2012 05:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:

It's been on my mind, believe me. I am trying to get my mom to do it, she's the one who lent me the money, via credit card, to have it done.

I have noticed that the rear wheels seem to point towards each other at the front of the wheels.


Go back and talk with them first in an effort to resolve the issue. I've been to small claims court before and arbitration is what they usually try first before going in before a judge. If you discovered the hub bearing is bad allowing perceptable play in the wheel, that's a very good indication that a proper shake down was not performed to make sure the car was eligible to be aligned. Lube all of your ball joints, I had a bad ball joint revealed during a lube job when the same wheel didn't show movement when checked. The grease forced the ball of the joint upward and I could see the wheel appear to slide outward in the process.
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post12-02-2012 10:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Should the rear wheels point inward at the front, or outward?
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Gall757
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Report this Post12-02-2012 10:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You should not be able to see them pointing anywhere. The alignment process is too subtle to see any differences.
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post12-02-2012 10:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
WHat should they measure? I'm going to try adjusting the R. toe. I' spent most of last night on the search function and google reading up on it.
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Gall757
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Report this Post12-02-2012 10:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not a good idea. If you change anything you no longer have a case with the alignment shop that charged you $500.
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jon m
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Report this Post12-02-2012 04:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gall757:

Not a good idea. If you change anything you no longer have a case with the alignment shop that charged you $500.


DITTO - get a second opinion from a suitable alignment shop - and if they say the car is way out then surely you would have a case - provided you havent driven the car for miles and miles - I am assuming they checked and logged the mileage on the alignment check sheet.

jon
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jon m
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Report this Post12-02-2012 04:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jon mSend a Private Message to jon mEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

jon m

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quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:

WHat should they measure? I'm going to try adjusting the R. toe. I' spent most of last night on the search function and google reading up on it.


its not a case of being able to take a measurement and it cant be done successfully by the eye either - yes you may get it somewhere near but not accurate enough.
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post12-02-2012 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have noticed that at highway speeds if you induce the wobble while you coast, it is much much worse than if you go wide open throttle and induce it.
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post01-03-2013 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got a chance to drive it with a borrowed set of 17s today, and surprisingly, they made the problem a lot worse. Now I'm completely stumped. I'll be putting a motor mount in it, but I dont think that would cause THAT much of a problem.



[This message has been edited by Stainless1911 (edited 01-03-2013).]

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Report this Post01-04-2013 06:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rourke_87_T-TopClick Here to Email rourke_87_T-TopSend a Private Message to rourke_87_T-TopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by marshall12285:

Also checks your upper control arm mounts up front. Take the tire off, jack the suspension up to keep it in the position it would be in driving down the road and see if you can wobble it back and forth. The tube that bolt runs through is only pinched down/tight on the bolt on the ends and tends to oval out over time allowing the control arm to wobble slightly. It won't appear to be much but it only takes a tiny bit of movement to feel it driving. I've also had bolts that were thinned by rust and allowed bushings to move excessively. Alignments are key. I've been to 3 shops and there always seems to be something wrong when I get it back or something they totally missed in their "thorough" inspections.


I'm thinking the same, I had this issue a few years ago, I thought it was other factors, ball joints etc, can't say for sure from a video but it's very easy to diagnose, take the front wheel off, jack the front suspension, compressed, facing the rotor, rock it back and forth if it moves from 11:00 position to a 01:00 position, watch the upper A Arm bolt.

[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 01-04-2013).]

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Report this Post01-04-2013 08:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for oldbikeracerClick Here to visit oldbikeracer's HomePageClick Here to Email oldbikeracerSend a Private Message to oldbikeracerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


Here is alignment chart for 87 Fiero. Notice measurements are in DEGREES not inches. These cars are short so alignment is critical to handling. I took this chart to my alignment shop and made certain they understood it is stated in DEGREES. Also not rear camber is - not + Hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 01-04-2013).]

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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-25-2013 03:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It was the tires.

I wanted a pair to get by for a while, and requested a harder sidewall. The tire guy showed me how almost none of the 14" tires were more than single ply. I figured I'd go to a 15" rim. A different guy told me taht he could probably get a set of aluminum wheels for 200. Steel wheels were going for 80, so , i have new 15' aluminium rims

Now I have had good tires and bad tires, they make a huge difference, but this...is something different. It still has a little bit of yaw sensitivity, probably due to the short wheel base, but it's a completely different car now.

I call it my "Silver Bullet", very fond of the little thing really. Now it's time to start thinking about changing the name to something like, "38 Special". Yes, I like the sound of that.

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92wastheyear
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Report this Post08-26-2013 01:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 92wastheyearClick Here to Email 92wastheyearSend a Private Message to 92wastheyearEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Very Nice....I had an 86 in that color. Loved it
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Report this Post08-26-2013 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for drattsClick Here to Email drattsSend a Private Message to drattsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm wrestling with the same problem. I have Held wide track slalom suspension in front and wide track bump steer correction in back. I think that my wide low profile tires have something to do with it and I don't have a rear stabilizer bar yet. I've been on roads where the studded tires have worn grooves and it has been a white knuckled experience where I was actully afraid that the car ws going to jump right off the road. My current plan is to get a rear bar installed and then recheck my alignment. The shop that did my last alignment didn't have Helds specs form the rear and they just did a corvette spec alignment.
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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 11:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have you tried the inner R Tierods? I saw the biggest improvement in the tightness from putting those on it.
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