Edited to start adding Table of Contents:
Page 1:
Exhaust build v1.0
Replacing odometer parts
Recalibrating V6 Formula tachometer to work for 2.5L 4 cylinder

This thread will be for the work that I do to the 2nd T-top Fiero I've owned. It is starting it's life with me as a 1988 Coupe, 2.5L engine, TH-125c transmission and after this weekend, a non stock exhaust.



I recently acquired this and quickly found how badly the previous owner maintained it. Massive valve cover leak (original gasket). Leaking transmission pan gasket. Rusted out muffler. Tackled all the leaks and tune up issues, then started on the exhaust. Removed everything except for the header and found that the catalytic converter was also toast. So, this first post will show my solution.
I started off making a temporary jig to hold all the components where the exhaust tips would still exit in a stock location. I even made a bit coming up to mark where the header connection would be:

I then created this:


Note, I added a second oxygen sensor port for wideband AFR monitoring:

It all then got painted with 2000F blue exhaust paint, then wrapped and mocked up. It looks so purdy:


Then it got some weather proofing with silicon exhaust paint:


Finally, ready to install. So shiny:

*Edited to fix picture links and to add this:
YouTube of firing it up
------------------
John
1955 Chevrolet 210 Sedan (Shopping list in progress)
1988 SE seized duke...next engine...1996 LQ1 found
~Future 1990 Fiero Clone?
1988 T-Top Coupe rocking 41 MPG!
1986 SE Project Mayhem
1999 F350 Crew Dually ~17mpg city 22 hwy
Wife's 2001 Saturn SL1 51MPG high score

[This message has been edited by FieroCustom (edited 11-04-2012).]

Ok, been doing a little shopping on the forum and have something new to me to put into the T-Top. Some of the cleanest Formula meters I have ever seen!
First order of business, making sure they are all clean inside and out. Then, adjusting them to reflect actual mileage on my car. So here goes:
They looked clean enough, so I released the metal lock on the odometer drum. Easy enough to do with a small flat-tip screwdriver:

While I was adjusting the drum I ended up breaking the same part I always break; this little plastic piece that holds all the odometer drum tabs (yellow piece just below screwdriver tip):

So I made this nifty replacement piece out of a stiff piece of cardboard (frozen pizza box or cereal box works great):




You have to make the replacement part small enough to fit in the little valley under the drum:

Ok, after playing some with the drum to get the right mileage, it now reads 173184.1 miles just like my car. Now to install it back in the housing in this order:

Now hook the little relief cut into the odometer rotor shaft and pivot the lock back down:

And that's how it's done:

I can't wait until I get to tinker with my car again. I miss driving it while I'm at sea.

I do enjoy seeing a nice looking coupe!

Very good write-up!

Are these the correct capacitor values for the different engines?

Number of Cylinders: 4, Capacitor Value in micro Farads: 0.01 uF


Number of Cylinders: 6, Capacitor Value in micro Farads: 0.0082 uF


Number of Cylinders: 8, Capacitor Value in micro Farads: 0.0064 uF

Thank you for the help.

[This message has been edited by hdryder (edited 06-28-2015).]

quote Originally posted by FieroCustom: Ok, after playing some with the drum to get the right mileage, it now reads 173184.1 miles just like my car.

With the drum removed, how were you able to rotate the individual numbers on the drum to get the right mileage you needed?

[This message has been edited by hdryder (edited 07-14-2015).]

Or you could just transfer your drum from the 85 MPH speedo to the new speedo....

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: Or you could just transfer your drum from the 85 MPH speedo to the new speedo....

This...

why are you wrapping all of the exhaust?