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NEED HELP - Can't squeeze piston enough to bet new brake pads on by SkyeBologna
Started on: 06-23-2012 04:09 PM
Replies: 20 (472 views)
Last post by: hobbywrench on 08-28-2013 02:12 PM
SkyeBologna
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkyeBolognaClick Here to visit SkyeBologna's HomePageSend a Private Message to SkyeBolognaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have an 86 stock 2.5 - I successfully rebuilt the rear caliper on the passengers side, got it back together and it works. Changed the pads on the rear drivers side, looks like the piston is all the way down, I'm missing being able to get it on the rotor buy approx 1/16th" I backed off the ebrake lever and rotated it, that seemed to close it a little more. I've been messing with it for nearly 2 hours and honestly I'm ready to smash the entire car, house, can somebody help me????



Kevin

[This message has been edited by SkyeBologna (edited 06-23-2012).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Try rotating the piston to retract it the last little bit.
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SkyeBologna
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkyeBolognaClick Here to visit SkyeBologna's HomePageSend a Private Message to SkyeBolognaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Try rotating the piston to retract it the last little bit.


isn't that the same as rotating the ebrake lever to retract it? or no????
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Blacktree
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Theoretically, yes. But in practice, things can be different.
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SkyeBologna
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkyeBolognaClick Here to visit SkyeBologna's HomePageSend a Private Message to SkyeBolognaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Theoretically, yes. But in practice, things can be different.


okay got my tool. which way do I spin it?
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GraterFang
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GraterFangClick Here to Email GraterFangSend a Private Message to GraterFangEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
How exactly are you retracting the piston? You're rotating the actual e-brake lever? If so, that's not how I would recommend going about it.
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SkyeBologna
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkyeBolognaClick Here to visit SkyeBologna's HomePageSend a Private Message to SkyeBolognaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by GraterFang:

How exactly are you retracting the piston? You're rotating the actual e-brake lever? If so, that's not how I would recommend going about it.


started with a c-clamp, went as far as I could then I did try the ebrake lever.
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SkyeBologna
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkyeBolognaClick Here to visit SkyeBologna's HomePageSend a Private Message to SkyeBolognaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
just rotated it a couple turne - no go
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You have to remove the E-brake lever, then squeeze the piston in with the C-clamp. If you don't remove the lever, it will come up against the stop and not turn any further preventing you from pushing the piston back in.

If you decide to leave the crank on, then you can spin the piston in with the tool but you may end up with the two indents on the piston face clocked in the wrong position. That's why it's best to clock the piston first, remove the crank, and squeeze the pistion straight in. Then reinstall the crank.

If you're still getting blocked, then make sure the banjo bolt isn't screwed so far into cylinder that it's interfering with the piston.
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SkyeBologna
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Report this Post06-23-2012 04:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkyeBolognaClick Here to visit SkyeBologna's HomePageSend a Private Message to SkyeBolognaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks Dave. Gonna do that now. I almost took the banjo bolt off but the bleeder screw on this side looks questionable at best and after the day I had thats the last thing I want to tackle

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

You have to remove the E-brake lever, then squeeze the piston in with the C-clamp. If you don't remove the lever, it will come up against the stop and not turn any further preventing you from pushing the piston back in.

If you decide to leave the crank on, then you can spin the piston in with the tool but you may end up with the two indents on the piston face clocked in the wrong position. That's why it's best to clock the piston first, remove the crank, and squeeze the pistion straight in. Then reinstall the crank.

If you're still getting blocked, then make sure the banjo bolt isn't screwed so far into cylinder that it's interfering with the piston.


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theogre
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Report this Post06-23-2012 05:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
piston height must be under 5 mm when you retract them.
Over the 5 mm limit, you didn't do it right or the piston is bad.
see my cave, rear brake article.

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SkyeBologna
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Report this Post06-23-2012 05:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkyeBolognaClick Here to visit SkyeBologna's HomePageSend a Private Message to SkyeBolognaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good news, I got it FINALLY!!! I hadn't mentioned in my earlier that the sliders on both calipers were so badly frozen they needed to be pressed out and polished...long story short I git it done. Thank you everyone who chimed in!!!

Kevin

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

You have to remove the E-brake lever, then squeeze the piston in with the C-clamp. If you don't remove the lever, it will come up against the stop and not turn any further preventing you from pushing the piston back in.

If you decide to leave the crank on, then you can spin the piston in with the tool but you may end up with the two indents on the piston face clocked in the wrong position. That's why it's best to clock the piston first, remove the crank, and squeeze the pistion straight in. Then reinstall the crank.

If you're still getting blocked, then make sure the banjo bolt isn't screwed so far into cylinder that it's interfering with the piston.


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NightMare Cruiser
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Report this Post08-25-2013 02:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NightMare CruiserSend a Private Message to NightMare CruiserEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What a PITA the rear brakes are. Who the hell came up with the " removing of the e-brake" arm??
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Report this Post08-25-2013 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DimeMachineSend a Private Message to DimeMachineEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I agree, that is why I run front calipers on the back for the past 10 years (I live in a very flat area of the country and have an automatic). Dont do this though be cause it is against some laws & rules and may be unsafe if you park on a steep hill.

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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 12:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by DimeMachine:

I agree, that is why I run front calipers on the back for the past 10 years (I live in a very flat area of the country and have an automatic). Dont do this though be cause it is against some laws & rules and may be unsafe if you park on a steep hill.



How does the car stop/handle?
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post08-26-2013 07:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Stainless1911:


How does the car stop/handle?


On an 88, it stops/handles just the same. I did this on an 88 and it was such an improvement over messing with the rear caliper and e-brake (auto tranny, e-brake never used, so cables were bad). Daily driver, not show car.

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Stainless1911
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Report this Post08-26-2013 08:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stainless1911Click Here to Email Stainless1911Send a Private Message to Stainless1911Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks. My car didnt come with enough to make the parking brake work again.
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Report this Post08-26-2013 09:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I cant ever remember using the parking brake on any car in 50 years. As an emergency brake, most barely slow the car down at all. Dragging my foot out the door would be more effective.
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post08-26-2013 11:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You must remove the cover on the Master Cylender Resivour to releave the pressure,when compressing the caliper piston.
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theogre
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Report this Post08-26-2013 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:
I cant ever remember using the parking brake on any car in 50 years. As an emergency brake, most barely slow the car down at all. Dragging my foot out the door would be more effective.

Yup... FMVSS test Parking brake only for holding a stopped car.
Car makers publish data on pbrake, or booster fail, is ~2x normal stopping distance. Read most any Owners Manual. (Many OM doesn't have stopping distance spec because many things affect the spec. Just changing tires can changing the stop distance.)

 
quote
Originally posted by NightMare Cruiser:
What a PITA the rear brakes are. Who the hell came up with the " removing of the e-brake" arm??

This work well when rear piston/caliper is good. Easier than turning the piston and likely tearing the boot and/or seal or causing damage to the piston. The cube "tool" often has problem... Worse many use Pliers to try to turn the piston.
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hobbywrench
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Report this Post08-28-2013 02:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hobbywrenchSend a Private Message to hobbywrenchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have read the posts above, but did not see what I have found to be a major problem on rear pad/caiper assembly (forgive If I missed ). The back of the pads have nubbins which must rest in the corresponding indents in the outer piston face. During assembly or even retraction I have found it possible to miss the 12 o clock-6 O clock postion of the piston which does not allow the pad to nestle correctly. The 1/16" problem outlined here sounds like what I have repeatedly seen when reassembling rear calipers.
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