I have an 86 stock 2.5 - I successfully rebuilt the rear caliper on the passengers side, got it back together and it works. Changed the pads on the rear drivers side, looks like the piston is all the way down, I'm missing being able to get it on the rotor buy approx 1/16th" I backed off the ebrake lever and rotated it, that seemed to close it a little more. I've been messing with it for nearly 2 hours and honestly I'm ready to smash the entire car, house, can somebody help me????
Kevin
[This message has been edited by SkyeBologna (edited 06-23-2012).]
You have to remove the E-brake lever, then squeeze the piston in with the C-clamp. If you don't remove the lever, it will come up against the stop and not turn any further preventing you from pushing the piston back in.
If you decide to leave the crank on, then you can spin the piston in with the tool but you may end up with the two indents on the piston face clocked in the wrong position. That's why it's best to clock the piston first, remove the crank, and squeeze the pistion straight in. Then reinstall the crank.
If you're still getting blocked, then make sure the banjo bolt isn't screwed so far into cylinder that it's interfering with the piston.
Thanks Dave. Gonna do that now. I almost took the banjo bolt off but the bleeder screw on this side looks questionable at best and after the day I had thats the last thing I want to tackle
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Originally posted by Bloozberry:
You have to remove the E-brake lever, then squeeze the piston in with the C-clamp. If you don't remove the lever, it will come up against the stop and not turn any further preventing you from pushing the piston back in.
If you decide to leave the crank on, then you can spin the piston in with the tool but you may end up with the two indents on the piston face clocked in the wrong position. That's why it's best to clock the piston first, remove the crank, and squeeze the pistion straight in. Then reinstall the crank.
If you're still getting blocked, then make sure the banjo bolt isn't screwed so far into cylinder that it's interfering with the piston.
piston height must be under 5 mm when you retract them. Over the 5 mm limit, you didn't do it right or the piston is bad. see my cave, rear brake article.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Good news, I got it FINALLY!!! I hadn't mentioned in my earlier that the sliders on both calipers were so badly frozen they needed to be pressed out and polished...long story short I git it done. Thank you everyone who chimed in!!!
Kevin
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:
You have to remove the E-brake lever, then squeeze the piston in with the C-clamp. If you don't remove the lever, it will come up against the stop and not turn any further preventing you from pushing the piston back in.
If you decide to leave the crank on, then you can spin the piston in with the tool but you may end up with the two indents on the piston face clocked in the wrong position. That's why it's best to clock the piston first, remove the crank, and squeeze the pistion straight in. Then reinstall the crank.
If you're still getting blocked, then make sure the banjo bolt isn't screwed so far into cylinder that it's interfering with the piston.
I agree, that is why I run front calipers on the back for the past 10 years (I live in a very flat area of the country and have an automatic). Dont do this though be cause it is against some laws & rules and may be unsafe if you park on a steep hill.
------------------ 84 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 3.0 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -12.05 at 111.7mph
I agree, that is why I run front calipers on the back for the past 10 years (I live in a very flat area of the country and have an automatic). Dont do this though be cause it is against some laws & rules and may be unsafe if you park on a steep hill.
On an 88, it stops/handles just the same. I did this on an 88 and it was such an improvement over messing with the rear caliper and e-brake (auto tranny, e-brake never used, so cables were bad). Daily driver, not show car.
I cant ever remember using the parking brake on any car in 50 years. As an emergency brake, most barely slow the car down at all. Dragging my foot out the door would be more effective.
Originally posted by rogergarrison: I cant ever remember using the parking brake on any car in 50 years. As an emergency brake, most barely slow the car down at all. Dragging my foot out the door would be more effective.
Yup... FMVSS test Parking brake only for holding a stopped car. Car makers publish data on pbrake, or booster fail, is ~2x normal stopping distance. Read most any Owners Manual. (Many OM doesn't have stopping distance spec because many things affect the spec. Just changing tires can changing the stop distance.)
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Originally posted by NightMare Cruiser: What a PITA the rear brakes are. Who the hell came up with the " removing of the e-brake" arm??
This work well when rear piston/caliper is good. Easier than turning the piston and likely tearing the boot and/or seal or causing damage to the piston. The cube "tool" often has problem... Worse many use Pliers to try to turn the piston.
I have read the posts above, but did not see what I have found to be a major problem on rear pad/caiper assembly (forgive If I missed ). The back of the pads have nubbins which must rest in the corresponding indents in the outer piston face. During assembly or even retraction I have found it possible to miss the 12 o clock-6 O clock postion of the piston which does not allow the pad to nestle correctly. The 1/16" problem outlined here sounds like what I have repeatedly seen when reassembling rear calipers.
