Anyone have a “how to” with pictures for changing the cables that keeps the deck lid from opening to far? I only had one good one and that snapped yesterday.
Looks like they are riveted in, do you have to remove the deck lid to replace? Also, where can I get replacement cables?
Never replaced one but if you remove the deck lid BE CAREFUL! With those torsion rod things still in, the hinge will be able to hit the rear window...and you do NOT want to have to replace that. On a side note, one of mine on the GT is broke and if I ever get back to that car I’m going to remove the torsion bars and go with a dual strut setup. I don’t care for those rods much just for these reasons.
Edit to add; go figure Rodney sells replacement! http://www.rodneydickman.com/n91.html Also I see you are new so first, welcome to the forum. Some great people on here always willing to lend a hand. And second, use the search function in the upper right corner and you’ll most likely find everything and anything you want to know. It’s a little finicky as far as results so you’ll need to try several variations of what you’re looking for.
[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 05-16-2012).]
Just an FYI, you can buy or piece together a strut support that will make for a much cleaner system. I haven't messed with the torsion rods firsthand, but I know from many posts on here that they're a pain in the ass to mess with.
You do indeed have to remove the decklid from the hinges, and the hinges from the car to replace the straps since you need access to both sides of the rivets that hold the old strap on as well as to install the new rivets. Rodney Dickman used to make stainless steel straps but I just did a quick check on his website and didn't see them. Perhaps you could PM him. You have to specify whether you have a first or second design hinge for him to supply the correct rivets with your kit. (Edit: see DLCLK87GT's link above for the straps)
The replacement process involves scribing the location of the 4 bolt heads that hold the hinge to the decklid, and the 4 nuts that retain the hinge to the chassis so they can be reinstalled later without too many alignment issues later; Then you have to fabricate a pair of 1-3/8" X 1-3/8 X 4" wooden blocks to slip between the bottom of the hinge and the torque rods once you've partially closed the decklid, (see ittem 11 below):
The blocks will keep the pressure of the torque rods off the decklid and hinges as you remove the four bolts that hold the decklid to the hinges. Have someone stand in the trunk and hold the decklid from sliding into the rear window while two helpers unscrew the four bolts holding the decklid to the hinge. NOT THE FOUR NUTS HOLDING THE HINGE TO THE CHASSIS. Get them to help you remove the decklid once the bolts are out.
I'll continue with more instructions in an hour or so.
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 05-16-2012).]
Next, leave the wooden blocks in place, and place a piece of plywood against the rear window to avoid avoid breaking the rear glass in case you slip during the next step. You have to remove the two special bolts that hold the torque rods to the sides of the hinges by either buying the special hollow tip torx wrench bit, or breaking off the little pin in the middle of the bolt and using a normal torx bit, or using a dremel and flattening two sides of the bolt heads to give you something to grip with some visegrips. Remove the two screws.
Then with a helper, slip a pipe over the end of one of the torque rods, pry downwards and hold the pressure to remove the wooden block, and have a helper remove the two nuts holding the hinge to the chassis. Once the hinge has been removed, the torque rod can be slowly eased upwards and the pipe slipped off the end. Repeat for the opposite side.
Once the hinges are both off, you can drill out the OEM rivets that hold the remaining parts of the old straps to the hinges:
The installation of Rodney's straps come with their own instructions so follow them if you get his kit. The reinstallation of the hinges and decklid are pretty much the reverse of the procedures above. Again, your life will be much easier if you marked or scribed the location of the nuts and bolts before you took them off. Don't slam the decklid closed the first time after you've completed the strap replacement, rather take your time and make sure it's properly aligned to avoid any damage to the paint. If you need to make small adjustments to the decklid after it's installed, with the decklid closed you can reach the 4 nuts and 4 bolts with the decklid grills removed.
Wrap the plywood in clothe or place some foam between the plywood & glass & the plywood & decklid ,do not take any chance FUBAR always waits in these situations.. do not attemp to make your own straps !! hmmm wonder how I know this
Can I sort of add to this topic a question? What if you need to adjust the deck lid. I just bought an 88 Formula from a used car dealer and the nice service department at a VW dealer decided to remove the deck lid hinges and all from the car and never marked where the bolts sat before I bought it. When they put it back together it looks ok but rubs on the left deck lid vent and there is a good size gap on the right hand side. Should I release the torsion bars before trying to adjust the hinges? Or should I loosen the bolts only a little and give it a shot?
In your case, you need to loosen the four nuts that hold the hinges to the chassis and nudge the decklid over. You can do this with the decklid latched, the grills off, and the torsion rods still attached. You may need a helper to push down on the front edge of the decklid (near the rear window) to reset or maintain the height of the lid as you retighten the four nuts.
How to align a Fiero decklid: 1) Remove the latch loop from the trunk. 2) Remove the engine vents. 3) Loosen the bolts on the firewall & center the front of the decklid & adjust up or down to fit flush with the body panels (& tighten the bolts of course). 4) Loosen the bolts on the decklid & adjust to fit square in the hole & flush with the rear 1/4 panels & tighten the bolts. If this moves it over to one side go back to step 3. Sometimes you have to go back & fourth a couple times to get everything perfect. 5) Re-install the latch loop & adjust so that the decklid closes properly & it doesn't change the alignment. 6) Re-install the vents.
BTW, the rivets are a real ***** to spread over but Rodney's product is top notch (as usual). ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Did the job last winter. Used a impact chisel with a blunt end, very lightly, to mushroom the rivets. Don't over mushroom them as they really are soft enough to start splitting out.
Used ratcheting cargo straps to hold the torsion bars while doing the hinge work. Just put the straps on with the deck lid partially open. Will make removing the hinges easy.
Both times I've done this repair I found it very difficult to mushroom the shanks of his rivets... they are extremely hard steel.
I used a 3/8" hardened steel drift and a standard hammer and I had no problem peening the ends over. I had someone hold it on the anvil part of my work bench vice while I hammered on the drift.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
Not about your decklid cliff, well sorta... but WHY dies the whole forum look like this to me all the time? Just thought I'd ask while I have you on the hook here.
I'm down to maybe my last one or two pairs of these kits now. I'm not sure if I will have a new batch made. My first batch took like 15 years to go thru. The cost will be much higher because the cables will be more if I order them again. I never raised the price on these all these years. But they will probably be needed more and more now that these cars are getting a lot older.
Also oil your hinges occasionally where they rotate on the pins or they eventually rust solid and the pin freezes solid shears off. Once it shears it is close to impossible to get the old pin out. I've tried.
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
Some great people on here always willing to lend a hand. And second, use the search function in the upper right corner and you’ll most likely find everything and anything you want to know. It’s a little finicky as far as results so you’ll need to try several variations of what you’re looking for.
Both times I've done this repair I found it very difficult to mushroom the shanks of his rivets... they are extremely hard steel.
