I'm back after a long break. Been building my car and keeping a diary on blogspot. I do have my motor/trans in the car now and am moving on to axles finally! I've been re-reading all of these threads again on what to do. Reading my older, more ignorant posts I had made back then. I've got a couple of G6 manual axles coming for $120 (total for both). I'll have a look at what that looks like and move from there. I'm thinking I may have to get the Chevy S10 Blazer fronts for the outer most piece and swap the guts in from the G6 axles. At least on the passenger side. We'll see. Shouldn't be too much longer and I'll be able to post about that.
Thanks everyone for all the great info on these pages, it has helped tremendously.
Beware of aftermarket axles purchased from parts stores. The original axles in rebuilt form are an even rarer find now as I found out while trying to repair my failed driver side custom axle. Moser Racing did not taper the splines into the snap ring groove and they cut the groove far to deep and I didn't recognize the problem until after the joint was installed and locked on permanently. The cage had to be broken to remove the cup and the bearing race ground and split to get it off the end of the shaft.
You have to I.D. original equipment axles that have been rebuilt if buying from the parts stores as they are leaning heavily towards the Chinese made axles. Even the remanufactured axles they offer are what appear to be lower grade brand new axles that look almost exactly like the new axles they sell. They are easy to identify, first they all look like completely new parts, both joint cups are silver steel and the inboard joint is no longer tripod in appearance but round. These axles come with near permanently affixed outboard joints. I say near permanently because I was told by Interparts today that the joint can be removed but that it was very hard with no explanation. To date I know a 12 ton press could not remove the race from a set of Cobalt axles of the type described after the joint cup was forcibly removed with destruction of the cage.
My guess is that heat may be involved. I'm still trying to find a 33 spline outboard bearing race to get the car back to normal.
Ouch, and yeah, that's what these look like. I bought the S10 blazer 4x4 fronts (which fits my hubs perfectly) and busted one getting it apart, the other wasn't so bad. I got the 2 G6 axles so I could use them to connect to my tranny and the intermediate shaft. I took the clip off of the male part that goes inside the tranny on the drivers side before inserting it. I removed both tripots from both G6 axles to look at having just the cups from the S10 CV joints on my hubs and the tripots on the tranny and intermediate shaft. then using my jack I ran the suspension through it's travel to measure how long my axle shafts need to be. Looks like 10.5 ~ 10.75" on the drivers side and 17.75 " on the passenger side.
Hard to find folks who can cut new axles for me. I was planning on reusing the hardware on both ends from the G6 axles minus the cups that go into my hubs of course. I haven't been able to find anyone local who can cut those splines for me. One shop that looked promising didn't have pattern for it. They have an old mechanical machine and the setup patterns for it to follow. They typically cut shafts a little larger than what I need too. Looks like I could pay this one shop in NC to do it, but they only want $1k. That's all! (insert obvious sarcastic remark here). This local shop that I thought was going to hook me up before they realized they couldn't do it, was about $150 a shaft and I'd assemble. No one is anywhere near that mark. Found another group who wanted $600 just to cut those same two shafts. Sad day y'all.
Anyhow. I'm continuing to look. I have considered cutting and welding what I have as a mock up to make sure my travel is as I expect. Then I have something to hand to a shop and say here copy this in a new shaft for me. I don't know. Kinda depressing at the moment. Was looking forward to taking my car to a conference the weekend before Thanksgiving, but that is looking like it's out.
------------------ Thanks, Coop
[This message has been edited by sisqocracker (edited 10-28-2015).]
Thanks, I chatted with one of the GM parts sellers and asked if the part number they had listed includes the mounting bracket, bearing, etc and they didn't know! I don't know why they couldn't ask someone to just pull it and look at it. They suggested checking with the local GM dealership and get them to pull up the diagram to confirm. I've looked at the online diagram and it isn't clear what's included.
Thanks, I chatted with one of the GM parts sellers and asked if the part number they had listed includes the mounting bracket, bearing, etc and they didn't know! I don't know why they couldn't ask someone to just pull it and look at it. They suggested checking with the local GM dealership and get them to pull up the diagram to confirm. I've looked at the online diagram and it isn't clear what's included.
I bought a new intermediate shaft from GM a few months ago. It includes the mount and bearing with the shaft as an assembly.
Below is how the part is listed, but the diagram shows the assembly, with each part of it numbered #8 being only the shaft. Its not clear to me whether "008" and "8" is the same or "008" represents the entire assembly. I'm not trying to over-complicate this, just don't want to purchase only the shaft without the mount!
Sorry to bomb the forum, but I have an update on this - I went to the local GM dealership (which also sold Pontiacs) and asked them to verify what comes under this part number. They confirmed its the shaft, bearing, bearing mount and misc clips, but not the attaching bolts (no big deal!). So they ordered one for me - total cost - $138 and change. I'm a happy camper - now on to the next item!
Sorry to bomb the forum, but I have an update on this - I went to the local GM dealership (which also sold Pontiacs) and asked them to verify what comes under this part number. They confirmed its the shaft, bearing, bearing mount and misc clips, but not the attaching bolts (no big deal!). So they ordered one for me - total cost - $138 and change. I'm a happy camper - now on to the next item!
Didn't read this post before I replied. Can you confirm the part number they ordered for you? The intermediate shaft is usually about $230, or so, form GM.
Its available from some of the GM parts distributors for the same price. I told the counter person I could get it for that and they matched it. Must need the business!
I have new F40, new 05-07 Cobalt SS custom axles from The Driveshaft Shop, I just ordered Spec's aluminum flywheel, Stage 3+ clutch and HTOB.
I'll post a couple of pics of the flywheel and clutch, just ordered them yesterday.
I still needing a F35/F40 intermediate jack shaft, remote oil filter relocation, tranny mounts,
I'm not sure exactly what to do about the bearing carrier to support the jackshaft, I've seen several examples for different combinations, when I do get some precise measurements, may get a quote custom billet piece, bolted to a series 3 block.
Thanks to everyone who have shared info, I am in the early stages of doing this swap, hobby.
Edit: need flywheel bolts, 97 Camaro ?
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 12-11-2015).]
Not sure if I ever mentioned this here but the 07 Saturn Aura with the 6 speed automatic and 3.6L DOHC motor and about 3 other GM cars with the same drive train up to at least 2010 carry the 27 spline inboard joint cup or for short, the same passenger and driver side axle that fits the F40 G6 from what I discovered trying to repair my axle with the following exceptions:
The associated cars carry the different spline count bare shaft that Archie referred to. I didn't count but it's more than 33. The good news is the fiero outboard joint cup will still fit the joint bearing race.
The intermediate shaft is male ended the same as that on the G6 however, I didn't purchase it having no need for it and can't verify whether or not it caries the same mounting bolt configuration as that found on the G6. That shouldn't be a problem for those intending to adapt the intermediate shaft to begin with.
The axles from automatic cars I've directed attention to might be slightly more beefier than the already stout G6 axle to account for the different part numbers they carry along with the different spline count bare shaft. After I swapped the fiero cup onto the Saturn/Malibu etc axle and installed it on the passenger side, I had to trim my front engine mount bracket because the extra metal built into the inboard joint cup was coming into contact with it hence another slight difference between it and the G6 axle.
To clear up confusion among those who are reading closely, both of my axle shafts were 33 spline, so after destroying the driverside race in removal I needed a very hard to find replacement. When I purchased the Saturn/Malibu axle and discovered it had a higher spline count shaft, I had to get the 33 spline race from the passenger side axle, and replace it with the new used axle after swapping the cups. It was a real headache that took about 2 weeks to do (tracking down the correct parts) and wasted about $140 in discovering what I revealed above about the non interchangeable import axles now being sold.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 12-13-2015).]
I went by the GM dealership today and picked up my brand new G6 GT jackshaft that I ordered through their parts department. It was the correct one with the bearing and mount! I'll try to post pictures.
Oh well - apparently can't post any pictures unless they reside on a website? - too bad....
[This message has been edited by alpine67 (edited 12-17-2015).]
Uh oh - I hope you meant to get the jackshaft for a Cobalt and not a G6!
Yeah I think, lol. I don't know for sure, find out soon. As far as I've read it's a matter of moving the drivetrain back and to the right about 1". I was reading about the two different part numbers listed for the Quaife LSD, I found a NOS Quaife QDH9J on eBay. So I called Quaife on Monday, they told me it is the exact same unit, no difference in the spline count, it's only a different part number because it is a Saab part number, being such it is discontinued. I got it much cheaper for that reason even with the shipping from the U.K.
Hi all. I know I hadn't been on here in ages and I'm well past this point in my build. I will probably have to go back and get more S10 hubs for my car and get them redone for being splined to fit my G6 stuff, but anyway, here's what happened.
I went to a GM dealer and got the intermediate shaft and gave them my business tax ID and got a discount on that. I then got V8 Archie's bearing mount setup for the intermediate shaft and took that stuff to a local machine shop where they pressed the stock GM bearing out and put the V8 Archie one on.
I picked up new (reman) G6 axles for the F40 6 speed, both left and right. I got these guys (RCV Performance) to make me new custom axles to fit the G6 ends, shipped that stuff to them and they knocked it out.
Then I called these guys (the driveshaft shop) and sent them my S10 hubs from the rear of my car and had them resplined to fit the G6 axle end that engages the hub. They did screw it up, they have the right stuff and what they did was correct for the engagement, where they screwed it up was the depth of the part where the axle can engage the hub, they cut that down to a larger bore than what could be splined. They basically threw away about .5 to .6 inches of engagement that I could have between my axle and my hub. I'm left with about .9 inches of engagement. So I won't stand on it. But once I do decide to make more power, I'll need new S10 hubs and have them do them right this time. It looks like the guy who did it maybe got it backwards for what he thought he was trying to do. I don't know. Who knows. It's screwing me out of being done 100%. But I do have hubs that have my custom axles in the car so I'm happy about that. Just can't handle the torque it should do.
For those not up to speed, I'm putting an LT1 from my old 95TA in the car, with a F40 tranny using V8 Archies stuff to get them together. I have a build dairy if you'd like to have a look. 100mpgmotors.blogspot.com is direct link to it. I'm also on youtube as sisqocracker, there are videos of the car running on fumes out there if anyone is interested in that.
Thanks, Coop
[This message has been edited by sisqocracker (edited 09-27-2016).]
