So, you had to make the rear consentric ring twice as thick as the cad drawing? Is this because your rotors are different than Joe's?
Yes, the rotors used here had a larger chamfer in them. Some rotors have a short chamfer in which his rings will work. The ebay ones used here, had too much material cut from the backside for the ones in bubba's drawings to work. They were remade twice as thick, and fit perfect with the rotors..
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 09-19-2005).]
None of those ebay links are the zinc plated drilled slotted ones that were used for this write up. The ones for this writeup were, however, purchased from ebay.
I ran into this exact same problem as well. Sluppy123 made my brackets for me and made them perfectly to Bubbajo's specs. I then had to make new rings because of the way my discs were machined (NOT because Brian made them wrong).
John Stricker
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Originally posted by Jncomutt:
Yes, the rotors used here had a larger chamfer in them. Some rotors have a short chamfer in which his rings will work. The ebay ones used here, had too much material cut from the backside for the ones in bubba's drawings to work. They were remade twice as thick, and fit perfect with the rotors..
You need the banjo bolt specific to the caliper. The Fiero Banjo bolts won't work on the Corvette caliper. The correct thread for the banjo is listed on the previous page should you decide to purchase new ones.
LATEST info on my suggestion for rotors...........
I have found a possible concern with the rotors. There is a large chamfer/counter bore on the back side which MAY present a problem. It looks as though there is enough "meat" to drill into with out going into the thiner part of the rotor. My rotor is at the machine shop now,but will not be ready for anothe two weeks as they are still behind on their machining.
Wish I had a pic of others rotors to compare to.
It looks as though there is aboout a 8th inch or so before the drilling of the 5X100 bolt pattern to clear the chamfer/counter bore.
How much space have others found for their spacing???
Jnco, I thought you said this was supposed to be easy? Yikes it looks like it was a bit more than a few minor tweaks. How's the braking power compared to the stocks? What's the deal with the 84? You ever get that thing running?
Originally posted by TooManyFieros: Jncomutt Nice black GT. Where did that come from???? Jim G
HEYYY!!! Nice to hear from ya, hopefully I can get down there and see ya soon!!! Perhaps that January thing you Gilberts like to do. That happening this year???
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Jnco, I thought you said this was supposed to be easy? Yikes it looks like it was a bit more than a few minor tweaks. How's the braking power compared to the stocks? What's the deal with the 84? You ever get that thing running?
Yea, it was easy, just took some time and some tools. Nothing that couldn't be accomplished in a full weekend or two.
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i know this was probably asked but how much was the swap?
Came out to be just under $1000 using quality parts. Buying parts at lower costs and searching around for parts would save ALOT of money, but when you want things yesterday, you tend to pay a bit more...
The print of the rear adapters is not complete. No overall length is given. Little confused, as the dimensions shown are not symetrical. I can't just assume that 3.5625 is the centerline and double it. I'm talking to a job shop about having a set of adapters made. If the price and quality are there, I'll post contact info here, and throw them some business.
[This message has been edited by HellYes (edited 01-21-2006).]
The print of the rear adapters is not complete. No overall length is given. Little confused, as the dimensions shown are not symetrical. I can't just assume that 3.5625 is the centerline and double it. I'm talking to a job shop about having a set of adapters made. If the price and quality are there, I'll post contact info here, and throw them some business.
the top extension line of 3.5625 indicates the center of the circle, if that wasnt half the overall length, there would be a second dimension. theres really no need for the other drilled holes to be a symetrical mesurement from the top and bottom.
So why doall this instead of buying an Upgraded set for the fiero?
Like these for the front at least?? (top right) front rotor and caliper upgrade?
For one, once the 'vette modification has been completed it may be easier to locate replacement parts locally given the relative popularity of Corvette vs. Fiero.
Another, is stopping power. There's a big difference between stock-diameter rotors with a slightly larger piston (The Fiero Store's set you mentioned), and an upgrade where everything is larger.
[This message has been edited by dguy (edited 10-16-2006).]
For those who have done this upgrade, how do you get the rear studs out? I really don't want to take everything apart to use a press, is it possible to use a hammer? I also don't want to wreck anything hehe...
The rear studs could be left stock if you wish. The mounting thickness of the vette rotor isn't all that much more than the fiero rotor. The front studs were designed to only go through the wheel, but are now going through the wheel AND rotor, so they need to be longer. The rears normally go through the disc and the wheel so the difference isn't all that much.
To address the studs however, I've had to swap a broken stud before. I just used a 3lb hammer and gave it a good whack. To install the new stud, I put it through, put a washer on it, and tightened a lug nut onto it, pulling the stud into place. There are probably better methods, but that seemed to work fine.
Got my parts from the 1985 Vette, all calipers & brackets for 171.00
Thanks for the great info.
Just want to keep this near the "top" for otheres.
PS: I found a compnay who will drill the 12" rotors for the 5X100 bolt pattern while being made. So you will not have 10 holes in your rotor.
What company will do this? I am converting to a different bolt pattern and don't want 15 holes in my rotors (have to add 5x100 along with the larger pattern I want so I can bolt on an adapter flange through the back side)
The rear studs could be left stock if you wish. The mounting thickness of the vette rotor isn't all that much more than the fiero rotor. The front studs were designed to only go through the wheel, but are now going through the wheel AND rotor, so they need to be longer. The rears normally go through the disc and the wheel so the difference isn't all that much.
To address the studs however, I've had to swap a broken stud before. I just used a 3lb hammer and gave it a good whack. To install the new stud, I put it through, put a washer on it, and tightened a lug nut onto it, pulling the stud into place. There are probably better methods, but that seemed to work fine.
Thanks for that. I won't bother changing them then. I have one bad stud on the rear so I'll replace it. Thanks.
Would someone mind posting some pics of the master cylinder setup and the tubing leading to the distribution block? I'm just a little confused because the corvette M/C has a larger hole closer to the booster, than the other. On the stock Fiero M/C, the thicker tube comes from the hole furthest from the booster.
Also, does anybody know the size and thread pitch of the holes in the Fiero distribution block? I'd like to have all the parts available before I start the install.
.JPG)
