R-134 gives maximum performance in A/C systems with condenser designs different than those which result in max performance from R-12.
I was reading recently that a condenser from a BMW E36 will fit a BMW E30, allowing the older car to be converted to R-134 with better performance than just dropping the new refrigerant in.
Is there a later model condenser (e.g. from a Corvette) that can be installed in a Fiero easily to improve the performance of R-134 converted systems?
Yeah, mounting it wouldn't be a big deal, but getting the connection locations to mount up, and/or fabbing intermediate pipes if they don't will the the trick.
I guess C4/C5 Corvette and 4th gen F-body would probably be good places to start looking.
Don't have time right now, but I'll check Spectra out.
The Mule has a Caddy compressor, variable orifice valve (VOV) and R-134... and it's just barely good enough, IMNSHO. If I can improve system performance with a condenser swap, that sounds like a good deal to me.
Yeah, mounting it wouldn't be a big deal, but getting the connection locations to mount up, and/or fabbing intermediate pipes if they don't will the the trick.
I guess C4/C5 Corvette and 4th gen F-body would probably be good places to start looking.
Don't have time right now, but I'll check Spectra out.
The Mule has a Caddy compressor, variable orifice valve (VOV) and R-134... and it's just barely good enough, IMNSHO. If I can improve system performance with a condenser swap, that sounds like a good deal to me.
I hear the condenser swap make a big difference.
I thought the guys on TGO had come up with a solution for the thirdgen cars, but now I can't find the thread...
FWIW, many of the aftermarket units utilize AN fittings.
I looked into this and there are a couple of universal condensers that will fit but they are somewhat smaller than the factory condenser. However, since the flow is parallel we can give up some size and still get improved low speed cooling. I'll pull my notes and find the the part number and connectors/adapters. I believe it was a Spectra core.
1997 Corvette unit is PN 7-4557 and is 24 13/16 x 15 5/16 x 3/4 with "block fitting" inlet and 1/2" male o-ring outlet http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/a/000074629 Can't grab photo
You have a bad condenser? Correct conversions to R134 is good w/o "upgrading" the condenser.
GM gave Fiero very over cool AC to start with. Has about same system in much larger cars. Most saying R134 sucks are full of it and very often does little work as possible to convert.
Correct is need to setup clutch control on HR6/DA6 or use right control valve in V5 and use right orifice tube. Plus fixing other problems.
Upgrade condenser then if compressor goes bad... expect to buying a new condenser. Big problem is the upgrade are impossible to flush when compressor dies.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Fiero has a truck-based AC system, it's oversized as hell for the car. The original condensers work great with R134A if the conversion is done properly. Mine was a LOT colder than my brand new Subaru.
There are several condensers on ebay for $230ish. Making another condenser mate up with the Fiero lines would probably be difficult anyway.
I did the new Cadillac compressor, new receiver dryer, variable orifice valve & correct pressure cycling switch. It would get me cool, but not cold with a full solar load on the car.
Not sure where you guys are getting the "truck A/C" idea from... Look at the numbers I posted above. The C4, C5 and 4th Gen all have significantly more condenser area than the Fiero does, so they can reject more heat to the airstream.
Originally posted by Will: I did the new Cadillac compressor, new receiver dryer, variable orifice valve & correct pressure cycling switch. It would get me cool, but not cold with a full solar load on the car.
Not sure where you guys are getting the "truck A/C" idea from... Look at the numbers I posted above. The C4, C5 and 4th Gen all have significantly more condenser area than the Fiero does, so they can reject more heat to the airstream.
likely did something wrong w/ conversion, have body panels missing and/or car still needs work on AC/Heater box and/or controls.
Just cleaning Heater box and AC Evap coil, that many don't, will affect AC and Heater performance. Many AC Evap coil have enough dirt mold etc to cut AC output. Cleaning big stuff to stop resistor catching fire is not enough for many old cars. Many need to wash Evap, condenser or both coils to remove layers of crap. Condenser is easy (google: ac condenser cleaner) but Evap is hard and likely needs to open AC connections just to get access.
Before leak and 200,000+ miles (worn out clutch bearing) kill my system filled R134 was cold on 90-100° days and I have sunroof on a black car. And I have V5 compressor w/ R12 control valve. Was cold enough you need to set to warm side after driving a 10-20 minutes or your freezing.
Originally posted by masospaghetti: Any reason the evaporator couldn't be cleaned in-situ? there's access to get some kind of spray cleaner in there, then just rinse it off and let dry?
above is one reason. You can use a soft stick etc to carefully stir up gunk the vacuum out big crap via resistor hole. (use search) Very careful because easy to bend AC fins or destroy the Evap.
You can try removing blower for more access. Might work but don't know. May depend on year made... IF GM and others used screens to "filter" big crap then cleaners can be less effective because of screen.
Removing dirt/mold/etc after 25+ years then you may need to take Evap apart. You likely need access to both side because Car Evap is thick and foams may not remove enough crap from only spray in the front.
use AC safe cleaners. Foams are very good. Safe means won't attack Aluminum or Plastic parts.
Originally posted by Will: I've replaced the heater core and didn't see anything that horrible... I guess I need to pull the cover and inspect to see what's up.
Heater will look OK because AC EVAP gets all the crap.
I know this is an old thread but for anyone reading like myself I located this condensor on ebay that says it is 21x14 like ours. My condensor has taken a beating after 28 years and I'd say its lost 30-40% capacity because of smashed fins and my a/c sucks in low speed situations. I just removed my evaporater and cleaned it with foam cleaner and that helped with airflow but I am not exchanging enough heat at the condenser. I confirmed this with manifold gauges and I'm showing higher than normal pressure on the high side. For example today it is 75 degrees out and my low side is 35 psi and my high side is 220 psi. Spraying water through the bumper onto the condensor drops it down to the 170 psi. This is with a correct recharge and new orifice tube.
I have not bought or installed one of these yet so I can not comment on fitment or how to adapt it to our car but here it is for you all: 21x14 ebay condenser
[This message has been edited by 88cryan (edited 07-04-2016).]
