I bought this last year and am getting around to looking at it finally to correct the issue. The guy I bought it from said he drove it home, parked it. Then the next morning nothing. It would start(as it does now) but it just will not go into gear. I have not changed the fluid as of yet, I am not totally sure of the issue but I have a clue, I think.
This is what it looks like with the gearshift in park
This is what it looks like with the gearshift all the way back
Is this where the gearshift manually connects to the transmission? Is it possible it is part of the linkage internally that has come loose?
What else could it possibly be? I am not totally sure of what I am looking at.
The plastic toothed portion of the cable is supposed to be locked in place. Yours is all the way out in the 1st pic and all the way in in the second pic, so the cable housing is moving and not the cable inside.
Place the shifter in park and then manually move the transmission shift lever to park and push the cable lock back down.
[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 06-20-2014).]
The plastic toothed portion of the cable is supposed to be locked in place. Yours is all the way out in the 1st pic and all the way in in the second pic, so the cable housing is moving and not the cable inside.
Place the shifter in park and then manually move the transmission shift lever to park and push the cable lock back down.
I will try that when daylight hits. I truly hope that is all it is.
That lock doesn't usually pop up on its own so it is possible that the previous owner was messing with it. So the issue you're having is no forward or reverse? Have you checked fluid level? If the transmission will physically go in and out of park (where the parking pawl disengages and engages so you can't push the car) then the linkage inside the transmission is ok and your problem lies elsewhere.
[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 06-20-2014).]
That lock doesn't usually pop up on its own so it is possible that the previous owner was messing with it. So the issue you're having is no forward or reverse? Have you checked fluid level? If the transmission will physically go in and out of park (where the parking pawl disengages and engages so you can't push the car) then the linkage inside the transmission is ok and your problem lies elsewhere.
Correct, no forward or reverse.
When you say the problem lies elsewhere exactly what do you mean? In the transmission but not the linkage? Where & how do you begin trouble shooting this?
The way the linkage hooks up inside the transmission it would be highly unlikely that anything has come loose. Do you have a factory service manual? There are complete diagnostics in the transmission section. PM me if you don't have one.
[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 06-20-2014).]
If the transmission will physically go in and out of park (where the parking pawl disengages and engages so you can't push the car) then the linkage inside the transmission is ok and your problem lies elsewhere.
Yep, it does work at this level also. Is the page below the one you are suggesting?
Yes. There is also a page that has a hydraulic pressure chart that shows what the pressures should be in the different ranges. Doing the pressure tests may show you where the problem lies. There isn't much else you can do with the transmission in the car.
Did you try the D2 and D1 ranges to see if those work. The direct clutch applies in both D and R but not in D2 and D1. If that clutch was bad, you should still have movement in D2 and D1. Also, a quick test you can do is pull the TV cable all the way out with the trans in gear. By pulling the TV cable all the way out, it will cause the trans pump to go full pressure and you should be able to hear this pressure change.
[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 06-21-2014).]
Will the car start? Have a helper hold their foot tight on the brake. remove the cable at the trans and MANUALY move it to the first click(reverse) then one more to netural, and one more to drive. If it wants to move in those posistions then the trans is fine, problem lies in the cable. If it does not move into the gears then it is inside the trans.
CAUTION: The exhaust will get hot! Don't burn yourself.
Will the car start? Have a helper hold their foot tight on the brake. remove the cable at the trans and MANUALY move it to the first click(reverse) then one more to netural, and one more to drive. If it wants to move in those posistions then the trans is fine, problem lies in the cable. If it does not move into the gears then it is inside the trans.
CAUTION: The exhaust will get hot! Don't burn yourself.
Best I can do for now....
The car starts and the motor runs fine. However, when running, no matter whether I put it in any forward gear or reverse it will not engage. If the car is off and I put it in park I can NOT push the car; put it in neutral and it can easily be pushed. The previous owner said it happened suddenly. He drove it home, the next morning and it is like this.
Yes. There is also a page that has a hydraulic pressure chart that shows what the pressures should be in the different ranges. Doing the pressure tests may show you where the problem lies. There isn't much else you can do with the transmission in the car.
Did you try the D2 and D1 ranges to see if those work. The direct clutch applies in both D and R but not in D2 and D1. If that clutch was bad, you should still have movement in D2 and D1. Also, a quick test you can do is pull the TV cable all the way out with the trans in gear. By pulling the TV cable all the way out, it will cause the trans pump to go full pressure and you should be able to hear this pressure change.
TH125's are super cheap. My transmission parts guy told me they put them in a lot of cars and in my area can be had for under $200. Might be something to consider.
Pull the dipstick on the trany and give it a smell, if it smells like burnt almonds then the trany is toast, reasons could be as simple as low fluid for the problem you describe.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 06-22-2014).]
Sounds like the splines on the pump rotor are stripped. The fast way to check the pump without a guage: after the engine hasn't run for several hours, pull the dipstick before starting the engine and take note of the fluid level(should be over full). Start the engine and recheck the fluid after 20 seconds, if it reads the same as engine offf the pump is not working. This can be repaired with the unit in the car. Pull the side cover and the pump is right there. You need to remove the valve body to change the shaft. Use your manual so you know to put the check balls that are going to fall out. this was a common failure back in the day. We used to go through them like a kid goes through candy on Halloween. I probably still have parts on the shelf if you need them. Marc
Pull the dipstick on the trany and give it a smell, if it smells like burnt almonds then the trany is toast, reasons could be as simple as low fluid for the problem you describe.
Steve
Smells fine, nice red color. However I did not have time to start it up. The fluid is about 2 inches above the full mark on the dipstick.
Oil is up to the 100 on the dipstick
[This message has been edited by hcforde (edited 06-24-2014).]
Sounds like the splines on the pump rotor are stripped. The fast way to check the pump without a guage: after the engine hasn't run for several hours, pull the dipstick before starting the engine and take note of the fluid level(should be over full). Start the engine and recheck the fluid after 20 seconds, if it reads the same as engine offf the pump is not working. This can be repaired with the unit in the car. Pull the side cover and the pump is right there. You need to remove the valve body to change the shaft. Use your manual so you know to put the check balls that are going to fall out. this was a common failure back in the day. We used to go through them like a kid goes through candy on Halloween. I probably still have parts on the shelf if you need them. Marc
We might have a winner!! with the fluid being so high as shown in the pic above, I checked the trans level on another car I have. I removed a bit over a gallon of fluid to bring it down to the same level as the other Fiero when at rest. I then ran the car and there was no movement in the fluid level. I need to get the car to a place where I can do as you have suggested. Right now it is outside, I guess I could put a tarp under it. I now wonder if the fluid was put in before it stopped working or after?
