Well I am back to trying to figure out this problem again. All of the cheap foreign OBD connectors that I ordered would not work so I finally ordered up one of the quality ones from scantool. I got side tracked because I was not driving the car and spent the last 2 months dealing with ordering custom wheels and figuring out fitment for them.
| quote | Originally posted by phonedawgz:
Lets start with this. Unbolt both connectors from the PCM. Using a wire stuffed into the connector side of C37 Clear (your Black/White wire from the O2 sensor) attach it to ground. Now turn the key on. Does your O2 sensor get hot like it did before? If so that means the wiring all the way to the PCM pin is good. If the O2 sensor is not getting hot then look at why there is an open between the HO2 sensor and the PCM pin. |
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Yup the sensor gets hot. That is actually how I manually grounded it the first time. So that would tell me that the wiring is good as well as the actual O2 sensor itself seems to be functioning properly.
| quote | Originally posted by phonedawgz: If that worked then use a stick pin to back probe the C37 Clear. Backprobing is jamming a pin down from the back side so you can read the voltage with the connectors all hooked up. So hook up the PCM and set up your meter so you can read the voltage on C37 Clear. If the previous test passed you should be reading 0v or near on the pin when the PCM has the O2 sensor hearter turned on. This would be at start up. Once the engine has warmed up and the PCM goes into closed loop mode the PCM should be shutting off the heater and the voltage should rise to +12.
Does it do this.
ps don't kill yourself looking at the meter while driving. |
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I haven't tried this yet, will do so ASAP and be back with results.