This is only the third time the car has gone very far since I swapped the 87 duke out and the 88 in. Last weekend and today are two of them and both times the motor runs good until you get it good and warm. Today I went to fort wayne and back with some time in a couple stores in between about 60 miles round trip. On the way home about 5 miles from home slowed for a stop light and the car started to buck then died . That is what it does only after it gets warm, it starts back up and then ok until you slow up again. plugs and wires were new last year only about 300 miles on them. I did notice oil pressure was down under 40 before it started then back over 40 after restarting. EDIT TO ADD FOLLOW UP QUESTION AT END
[This message has been edited by kendallville (edited 06-16-2014).]
High temps expand the electronics and cause bad connections. It could be in your coils, ICM, connectors....I'm not good at the 88 Duke ignition system... The oil pressure is a function of temperature too, and that all sounds sort of normal.
High temps expand the electronics and cause bad connections. It could be in your coils, ICM, connectors....I'm not good at the 88 Duke ignition system... The oil pressure is a function of temperature too, and that all sounds sort of normal.
My 85 duke was doing the same thing when I first got it running and it turned out to be the coil. Of course I know you have a different system but it could be the coil pack
Not sure what you don't like about my comment, Joe. ICMs tend to fail when they get hot, and work again when they cool off. The reason for that is that the circuit substrate expands it creates gaps in the traces....or some component that is soldered in place moves a little bit and loses contact. Other components do similar things. If you think that is not true, let us know.
My 88 duke had a similar problem (ran badly after getting warm). It turned out to be the tube connecting the fuel pump to the hard line. For some reason it was not clamped, and when it got warm, apparently the rubber got softer and couldn't hold the fuel pressure.
Not sure what you don't like about my comment, Joe. ICMs tend to fail when they get hot, and work again when they cool off. The reason for that is that the circuit substrate expands it creates gaps in the traces....or some component that is soldered in place moves a little bit and loses contact. Other components do similar things. If you think that is not true, let us know.
Letting you know I disagree.....decades of experience in electroplating, including circuit boards and related component assembly. Sorry Gall, but this is off the wall...... Joe
Ok I am back I took the grand kids to a drive in movie. First it is a automatic so may be the TCC solenoid not sure I have heard of the part but never worked on one. I have heard in the past coils go bad with heat so that is what I was thinking the problem was. or I did just have the fuel pump out to try to fix the fuel gauge, but it did it once before that. TCC solenoid does sound logical , because it does it when you are slowing up and then start up when it is shifting. is there a way to check that or do I have to take it to a transmission shop? Joe "Unplug the connector on the front of the trans and see if the problem disappears." not sure what connector would it show in my Haynes manual ?
[This message has been edited by kendallville (edited 06-15-2014).]
84-88 AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID You may need a new torque converter solenoid if the automatic transmission in your Fiero shutters and/or stalls when you come to a stop. When the factory solenoid fails it will not disengage the torque converter and cause the shutter/stall. The solenoid is located just inside the tranny pan. That does sound like the problem I am having. but I do not touch transmissions , I do not know anything about them.
Letting you know I disagree.....decades of experience in electroplating, including circuit boards and related component assembly. Sorry Gall, but this is off the wall...... Joe
Don't know where you learned this, but you need to go back to school. Temperature is one of, if not, the main causes of electrical failures. If you car quits when it gets hot, first place to look is the electrics. Larry
Don't know where you learned this, but you need to go back to school. Temperature is one of, if not, the main causes of electrical failures. If you car quits when it gets hot, first place to look is the electrics. Larry
Correct, due to component failure; NOT due to traces failing from substrate expansion or shift causing continuity loss. Gall's theory is not remotely creditable.
I assume by your response you have hands on experience with circuit board manufacturing?
The transmission connector is easy to locate, it is the only plug on the tranny on the front (passenger compartment side). Unplug it, drive it around and see if the problem disappears.
Trace failure of circuit boards. I've had a goodly number of ignition control modules fail when the engine was hot. Replace it and throw the failed one in the trunk. Months down the road or even a day afterward, I've put them back in and most of them would be functional again. Sometimes I would have one that had experienced it's fatal event, but most of them would have several rejuvenated cycles. If not one of the traces on the board, what could it be?
The Georgia Fieros 88 Duke Courtesy Car was having similar problems, but it's a 5-speed. When it would die, you could turn the ignition off, wait for a half minute and restart it. Turned out that it was the injector that was failing. That is another area to look at in your troubleshooting list.
The trace is copper that has been plated onto the substrate material, which has a lower coefficient of expansion than the copper. Most likely failure mode is a component mounted to the board that overheats and no longer functions within its design parameters. After cooling, functionality may return to the component, maybe not. As for circuit trace failure, very doubtful.
It's real easy to determine if the fault is the TCC solenoid. Just disconnect the blue wire on the firewall side of the transmission. If the problem goes away, you've found the problem. You can actually drive the car that way, but your gas mileage will suffer, since the torque converter will never lock up.
Ok the wire for the tcc is easy enough to find , but I am guessing that since it only does it after it runs for awhile I will have to take it for a long enough drive to see if it works? On short trips into town I have not had any problems or at least not bad enough to pay attention to. I had not thought to much about a fuel problem, but fierofool made me think instead of a bad injector could the fuel filter start plugging up on longer trips? I put a new one most years but did not do that this year. EDIT to add I found this on the TCC solenoid http://www.kichline.com/chuck/fiero/TCC.htm
[This message has been edited by kendallville (edited 06-15-2014).]
Question If the tcc solenoid is electrical could it be acting up because of a dirty wire connection ? I did have it unplugged when I swapped the dukes, so maybe its acting up because of a poor connection? ( I really just don't want to mess with it ) yes or am I off track ?
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