the lines are dry all the way upto the distribution block right next to the master cylinder, wondering if its the block or the master that sends fluid to the rear.
There are two brake line circuits that originate in the master. I think it's right and left front, then consolidated rear. The block next to the master just mediates pressure between the two circuits via a piston that moves between the two. Crack open the master lines , one artat a time while someone pushes the brake pedal, and see if you've got pressure out of each circuit. If fluid pressure, then master's good and move on to the block and do the same....so on and so forth.
There are two brake line circuits that originate in the master. I think it's right and left front, then consolidated rear. The block next to the master just mediates pressure between the two circuits via a piston that moves between the two. Crack open the master lines , one artat a time while someone pushes the brake pedal, and see if you've got pressure out of each circuit. If fluid pressure, then master's good and move on to the block and do the same....so on and so forth.
yes there are two for the front, one that goes to the front left, and then the one for the right, and you are correct again with a consolidated rear.
ALSO, I removed the line at the block and blew through each caliper with air, there weren't any leaks under the car when I followed the line; meaning there is no rupture for a leak OR a pinch.
next on the list is to see if the master is supplying fluid to the rear, and if it is, then it's the little block...
[This message has been edited by AL87 (edited 05-31-2014).]
I thought the Fiero had just two circuits, front and back. In fact I have one where the back is blocked off, but the front works. I had a Volvo that had multiple circuits that included three wheels each, but that car had multiple front pistons, four per wheel. I don't see how you could divide up four single pistons except front and rear.
On the Volvo the brake light warning switch consisted of a sliding piece of plastic between the two circuits. If one was stronger than the other this indicated a leak, the plastic piece would move, and the switch would be tripped. My guess would be you had (have) a leak in the back brake circuit that caused the proportioning valve to close them off. The fluid continued to drain through the leak. Your brake light should have come on. Maybe this happened so long ago that the bulb has burned out. Does it go on when you move the ebrake handle?
If I were you I would bite the bullet now. Replace just about everything brake: calipers, ebrake, lines, hoses, rotors, pads, etc. Maybe start in the rear, but when you get that done do the fronts as well. If you can afford it do everything, including new rotors and bearings in the front and a new, not rebuilt, master cylinder. The way I ended up with only front brakes was I tried to just fix the rears.
The Fiero store sells the stainless lines, you aren't going to find anything but cheap Chinese made hoses, the stainless hoses are not customized to the Fiero, rebuilt master cylinders often fail, the front rotors include the hubs so you should replace the bearings while you're in there, and you can't really find the long line that goes from front to back, except as part of the Fiero store kit.
You can find some small parts at JEGs, but the best brake line retaining clips I've found are at your local hardware store. The little clips between the hard lines and hoses are at O'Reilly's for pennies. If you still have the 90 degree brackets that hold the connection between hard line and hose, clean them up and reuse them.
I got the TFS drilled rotors and Carbomet pads kit and had the whole thing done professionally, which cost well over a thousand last winter, not including the aforementioned parts. When I picked the car up the pedal went most of the way to the floor and the brakes were weak, but over time they started to work. Now they're great.
Advance has been the best source for rear calipers, but check them before leaving the store. Quality and equipment vary. If I had it to do over and I was doing it myself I might get fully loaded calipers because it was hard getting the clips on the pads right.
You'll need quite a bit of brake fluid, one-man bleed screws or a patient helper, synthetic brake grease, a bleeder kit or some aquarium tubing, and some plumbers tape so it won't be so hard to open the bleed screws next time.
The caliper pins you have on the car are probably the best you'll find. They probably take a T-50 Torx bit. New bolts usually use an 8mm hex bit, but that can vary and they usually aren't made of 10.9 grade steel like the originals were.
If you get it done by someone insist on getting all the parts back. Drain the calipers and return them for the core charge. Otherwise you pay the core charge and they pocket that money when they return your cores.
It may not sound like fun, but IMHO somebody has to do it. I ended up buying another Fiero which had already been done, but here's the thing with that: The main brake line, the one from the front to the back, was loose, got torn off when I hit some deep snow, and much of it had to be done over, see 'over a thousand dollars' above. It's probably best to do all this yourself or have it done. It's a lot more fun to drive a Fiero with good brakes.
okay, so some fiddling here and there, the front output starts to drip when I loosen the line, the rear one however does not leak at all... and only squirts fluid when the brake pedal is applied... don't know whats up with it...
I took it apart and there was a seal and a guide and the seal was cocked sideways over the guide wich is supposed to act as a stop because the seal rests on it since a spring keeps tension on it to help meter the pressure to the rear.
