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You mean what are the causes? Steering wheel shaking?
Usually warped front brake rotors needing replacement. Could also be badly worn tire or tires due to needing an alignment, or a tire with other damage. You coudl rotate tires and see if the wobble moves.
I meant with braking because that is when it happens. I have rotated the tires since I bought it last Oct. It is a 2010 with less than 40k, Dodge Avenger. Also, with the rotors, wouldn't the steering wheel always shake or would it only shake when brakes are applied?
Sorry for not being more elaborate as to the steering wheel doing the shaking. Do appreciate an answer though. Course, I do also have new rotors and pads, I didn't install then because I thought that if it was warped rotors I thought the steering wheel would always shake. On a side note, WOW are OEM rotors for this car SUPER EXSPENSIVE, much worse than any GM car I ever had.
Thanx,
Ear-ick
edit: After rotating the tires nothing changed.
[This message has been edited by pavo_roddy (edited 04-23-2014).]
Since the rotors stay with the vehicle (as opposed to staying with the wheel), rotating the tires won't do any good. You also won't feel it unless you're braking as that's when the pads contact the rotors. Hopefully, you'll be able to replace the pads and rotors without having to replace the calipers. Those are generally the expensive part. I'm about to replace the front pads/rotors on my Blazer. Should be a snap if I can break the bolts loose. You might want to hose the bolts down a day before you try to remove them.
Sorry, I guess I didn't finish my thought. Heavily spray down the bolts holding the calipers with a penetrating oil (usually found in a spray can). If you "hose them down" with the penetrating oil a day ahead of time, it will give it a chance to seep into the threads. If you can't loosen the lug nuts with a good 4 way lug wrench, you have other problems.
HAHA, yeah that is a little more clear. Also, what you were saying about hosing the caliper bolts struck a memory. When I took the wheel off to put on new rotors, I could not get the caliper off the bracket. I could not see any other bolts or how else it would have been held onto the bracket other than the usual two bolts, top and bottom of the caliper.
This car is a 2010 Dodge Avenger, 2.4 cyl sxt. Before I even played with the rotors I checked youtube for people who replaced rotors onto that particular car, and none of the videos showed a problem.
What could it be that holds the caliper in place other than the bolts, again, top and bottom of the caliper?
HAHA, yeah that is a little more clear. Also, what you were saying about hosing the caliper bolts struck a memory. When I took the wheel off to put on new rotors, I could not get the caliper off the bracket. I could not see any other bolts or how else it would have been held onto the bracket other than the usual two bolts, top and bottom of the caliper.
This car is a 2010 Dodge Avenger, 2.4 cyl sxt. Before I even played with the rotors I checked youtube for people who replaced rotors onto that particular car, and none of the videos showed a problem.
What could it be that holds the caliper in place other than the bolts, again, top and bottom of the caliper?
Thanx,
Ear-ick
It depends on the design. Sometimes, you might have to lightly tap the caliper to get it out. I also assume you're not talking about the rear brakes and the parking brake is off.
[This message has been edited by carnut122 (edited 04-24-2014).]
Yep, am talking bout the front brakes. Ya know, I am gonna stop by a very local Dodge dealer and will pose them the question too. Also, it was weird cuz it was like the grip of the pads within the caliper was too tight.
Hope its not some new only the dealer can do crap.
If you can't remove the calipers/pads, it could be a couple things. First, if the rotors are REALLY warped (and it sounds like they are), they could be pressing against the pads constantly. Second, if the pads have worn into the rotors, the pads might be tighter than the outside edges of the rotor. Either way, find a big, flathead screwdriver, gently jam it inbetween a pad and the rotor and TWIST the screwdriver (don't pry). Hopefully, this will push the pads away from the rotor (by pushing the calipers pistons back in the housing). No matter what, you'll have to push the pistons back in the caliper bodies after you install the new pads/rotors or you'll never get the pads back around the new rotors. It's easy to do and if you're replacing the pads and rotors anyway, I wouldn't worry about damaging either.
Finally, some vehicles have a bracket that holds the pads that's separate from the actual calipers (my Blazer is set up this way). The bracket with the pads comes off but the calipers stay bolted on the vehicle.
Yep, am talking bout the front brakes. Ya know, I am gonna stop by a very local Dodge dealer and will pose them the question too. Also, it was weird cuz it was like the grip of the pads within the caliper was too tight.
Hope its not some new only the dealer can do crap.
Thanx all,
Air-eek
Probly normal, I use a rubber mallet and tap them off the rotor. They will be tight. if teh rotors and bpads are grooved it will make it harder to get them off. rememebr to clean the new rotors with brake clean to get any oils off and dont get penetrating oil on the new pads or rotor.
I do always appreciate the help here on Pennocks!! Even if I forget about a post sometimes, lol...
Did the pads n rotors today. I helped my brother move on Sunday, in the freakin rain too!!! The drivers side was the hardest as far as stuck bolts that now has a good coat of never seeze. The passenger side piston was out further than the driver and the outside pad was about gone. The passenger inside pad still had less than the driver side had. The driver side wear was even. So I think the caliper on the right side is sticking maybe?
Thanx all,
Air-eek
edit: OOH!! The steering wheel no longer shakes while braking. Also, the brake pedal is not as hard as the GM cars I've had, after changing pads n rotors. Is this a Dodge thing, or will I need to bleed the brakes?
[This message has been edited by pavo_roddy (edited 04-29-2014).]
Originally posted by pavo_roddy: edit: OOH!! The steering wheel no longer shakes while braking. Also, the brake pedal is not as hard as the GM cars I've had, after changing pads n rotors. Is this a Dodge thing, or will I need to bleed the brakes?
If you didn't open up the hydraulic system, there shouldn't be a need to bleed the system. How is the stopping distance? If it seems long and if the pedal seems to be compressing air, you might want to explore bleeding the system. Otherwise, I wouldn't fix what isn't broken.
Unless the car pulls to one side when braking probably none are sticking in that sense. If these calipers are like GM ones (I havent done a dodge one) Make sure to lube the slide pins very well and if the pads still wear funny (only on the outside pad for example, I'd replace the calipers and hoses.
