I had my passenger side upper control arm replaced on Monday. Initially, it was the upper ball joint that needed replacing, but I had bought a extra one from a low milage Eclipse from the salvage yard a year earlier (just in case). My mechanic found a hair-line crack on the upper control arm. I had the driver's side replaced maybe a year ago even though at the time the passenger side didn't show any signs of breakage. As you can see in the pic- the control arm was on it's way out.
It appears that the metal used isn't strong enough. I've checked Mitsubishi web site but no recalls. Normally a ball joint would need replacement, but I never heard replacing a control arm.
How could they allow something like that to make it to production? Is there anything different that you did with your car? Maybe really stiff springs, or huge, very heavy wheels?
Hit curbs? Could it be anything you're doing... or is this common for a lot of people?
If you aren't the only one experiencing this problem there may eventually be a recall.
edit: I checked complaints for a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse suspension and found 7 for lower control arm ball joints. Apparently those were once recalled (1995 - 1999 models, NHTSA Campaign ID number: 00V421001). Didn't see any reports of upper control arm problems.
[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 11-02-2010).]
I had the Lower Ball Joint go out on my Eagle Talon (same thing as an Eclipse). Since it was a recall, it was fixed. They also had to replace my CV Shaft since it yanked it apart when the ball joint gave. I haven't heard about upper ball joint problems before though. It seems to me that you might be getting some extra stress on the control arm from something.
Nick
BTW, How much for the wheels on your Fiero?
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quote
Originally posted by Australian:
Pop 2 viagras and punish it so it is out of action for a week.
I am the signature virus, please put me in your signature so I can spread
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: How could they allow something like that to make it to production? Is there anything different that you did with your car? Maybe really stiff springs, or huge, very heavy wheels?
Hit curbs? Could it be anything you're doing... or is this common for a lot of people?
Back in 1999 or so I had replaced the stock ball joints with adjustable after market ball joints. The ball joints were taken to a certified shop and press out the old one for newer ones, the control arms were in perfect condition-up until 9-yrs later when it separated and was hanging on by the grace of God. It tore-up the adjustable ball joint so I opt for a salvage control arm. On the hand, the car was lowered using Eibach springs, but since the springs kept sagging I went back to stock. Other-than-that, the wheels might be a bit heavier compared to stock wheels, but it can't be by that much. The stock wheels are 16" and the ones right now are 18" but are lightweight rims. If anything, I haven't hit any major pot holes or objects in the road. This car is mainly a work /freeway car-it's not your daily grocery getter.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-02-2010).]
The lower ball joints on 2G DSMs have been recalled. There's no recall on the control arms, but there are many instances of failures on the 2G DSMs.
The front suspension setup really sucks on these cars. I have a 2nd Gen Eclipse Spyder like you do Madcurl, and I've had all kinds of problems out of the front end with it. I've had a tie rod complete separate having only 30k miles on it. Thankfully, I was only traveling 35 mph, or it could have been much much worse. I've had bolts shake themselves out and the lower motor mount shake completely out at 64k miles. One of the worst cars I've owned suspension-wise, and I've been around DSMs for a while but the Eclipse Spyder in particular has all sorts of problems.
This is another thing im going to have to look at my buddys GST (FWD turbo) i know its been making some funny noises from the front end so who knows whats going on in it. I need to check the recalls for my GT i know the service records said some of them were done but im not sure if all were done
The lower ball joints on 2G DSMs have been recalled. There's no recall on the control arms, but there are many instances of failures on the 2G DSMs.
The front suspension setup really sucks on these cars. I have a 2nd Gen Eclipse Spyder like you do Madcurl, and I've had all kinds of problems out of the front end with it. I've had a tie rod complete separate having only 30k miles on it. Thankfully, I was only traveling 35 mph, or it could have been much much worse. I've had bolts shake themselves out and the lower motor mount shake completely out at 64k miles. One of the worst cars I've owned suspension-wise, and I've been around DSMs for a while but the Eclipse Spyder in particular has all sorts of problems.
I saw this happen on a 2G in philadelphia 2 weeks ago. It was a really beat up eclipse and they were ballin with a doughnut on it but it still shouldent have happend. Thankfuly they were only parking. I stopped off to help them out being a fellow eclipse owner.
Originally posted by madcurl: On the hand, the car was lowered using Eibach springs, but since the springs kept sagging I went back to stock.
I just noticed this checking back up on the thread.
Do you happen to know what Eibach setup was used when the car was lowered? A lot of 2G Spyders have been lowered incorrectly because many owners, knowing that they are FWD, put lowering springs for FWD 2G DSMs on them. However, the 2G Spyder actually uses the same suspension geometry as the AWD 2G DSM (you can very easily make a 2G Spyder AWD, as everything bolts up to the platform) and due to the higher weight of the car should have AWD springs installed if going aftermarket. It seems that there is a possibility that a lot of long-time Spyder owners could be seeing accelerated suspension wear if they have done modifications to the car incorrectly. I just also point that out because you mention the Eibachs have been sagging, which is a problem with FWD springs on a Spyder, but long-ran AWD springs will eventually do the same (just not as fast).
Back in 1999 or so I had replaced the stock ball joints with adjustable after market ball joints. The ball joints were taken to a certified shop and press out the old one for newer ones, the control arms were in perfect condition-up until 9-yrs later when it separated and was hanging on by the grace of God. It tore-up the adjustable ball joint so I opt for a salvage control arm. On the hand, the car was lowered using Eibach springs, but since the springs kept sagging I went back to stock. Other-than-that, the wheels might be a bit heavier compared to stock wheels, but it can't be by that much. The stock wheels are 16" and the ones right now are 18" but are lightweight rims. If anything, I haven't hit any major pot holes or objects in the road. This car is mainly a work /freeway car-it's not your daily grocery getter.
Man, that's crazy.
It looks to me like it's made rather cheaply. I would guess (by looking at the pictures) that the metal on the stampings is actually thinner than the metal on say, our Fiero control arms. I guess (for the most part), a stock control arm is ok when left totally stock... but it's probably too cheap to really handle much modification. The stress of having the ball joint pressed in and pressed out probably fatigued the metal somewhat... not that it's your fault because doing something like that on a Fiero control arm would have NO affect on it.
Shoot... I had my lower ball joints professionally installed with a sledge-hammer... and look how it came out?
(not posting this picture directly because I've been doing it too much in threads that have nothing to do with it)
FYI , this warning would apply to '95-'00 Dodge Avengers and Sebrings as they use the same suspension.
Thanks. The cars also share the same door handles. My driver's side broke two weeks ago in cold weather. This will be the third time replacing the handle. I've decided to beef-up the handle using my previous broken one. Although, my work car currently has 280,000 miles on the engine I never would've thought I'd have issues with door handles not to mention beefing up upper A-arms.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 01-06-2011).]
Thanks. The cars also share the same door handles. My driver's side broke two weeks ago in cold weather. This will be the third time replacing the handle. I've decided to beef-up the handle using my previous broken one. Although, my work car currently has 280,000 miles on the engine I never would've thought I'd have issues with door handles not to mention beefing up upper A-arms.
Lol his happend to my buddys passenger side.. apparentley its a commen problem with the 2G's
Here's the stock upper ball joint that was placed on the car in Dec 2010. In one month-the rubber is torn.
I'll have the other side replaced in a few weeks. I'm waiting on TrueChoice Koni racing to complete my coil-over kit. I want to drop the car by 1". I've used several types of lowering springs and they all failed.
I got my fully adjustable Koni coil-overs this week in the mail. I'll have the other upper ball joint replaced and have WCF weld the control arm-just in case.
I got around having the coil-overs installed today.
The original upper ball joint seal wasn't ripped, no hairline cracks in the control arm, but the ball joint got the boot. Got a newer and better after market one.
The other side was installed sometime ago.
Now the front sets 1-inch lower.
You can see the damage from previous Eibach and Sprortline lowering Springs. I won't have to worry about the gradual dropping from the springs.
Three finger gap is the rule for me when I roll.
I'll need a coil-over set up for the rear, but for now it will have to do until the shocks give out. I drove 100 miles and the car rides and feels much better.
And now ya'll see why Id rather have a 1G (PK86... ). Ironically though the early 2G's kinda grow on ya a bit (95-97, with the 96 Spyder being the nicest).
Congrats madcurl on getting her up and running again Very nice car, and I hope everything works out great for ya from here on in with her
And now ya'll see why Id rather have a 1G (PK86... ). Ironically though the early 2G's kinda grow on ya a bit (95-97, with the 96 Spyder being the nicest).
Congrats madcurl on getting her up and running again Very nice car, and I hope everything works out great for ya from here on in with her
Thanks, but not so quick. My clutch decided it couldn't take it no more!
Notice that there's something missing.
Normally, I have the clutch replaced every 100,000 miles. This clutch only lasted 90,000. I was traveling to grandmother's house to Fresno on 152 in Los Banos at a light. The car wouldn't shift (the spring) and nearly was rear ended while I was in the fast lane with emergency flashers on. I quickly got out of the car for I knew somebody wouldn't notice the flashers and rear end me. One driver swerved to miss the car. Once the coast was clear of the next batch of traffic. Accidently, I got back in and noticed it would get into gear if the car was off. While in reverse I backed-up for a block and entered WallyWorlds parking lot. Once there I was able to shift into gears (barely). Once I was in 4th gear I chanced it and shifted to 5th and made it all the way to Bakersfield.
I called ahead and ordered a Act II clutch. My Tom Tom listed a couple of shops in Los Banos, but they wanted my shirt. I made it to Bakersfield, CA and caught the $2 bus up to Tehachapi.
The $2 bus ride, hehe.
At the way I drive-I had more miles to-go on the clutch.
The spring somehow jump out and wedged itself between the clutch and the fly wheel. I had to have the fly wheel re-surfaced.
All is fine for now (I hope).
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 04-27-2011).]
I was able to get some work done on my work car yesterday. The car has over 331,000 miles on it and the radiator finally goes out. I enjoyed the moment since #020 was next door being detailed.
Parts alone cost nearly $200 smackers! I've never owned a car that has gone this many miles with major issues. I remember back in the day wanting to get a Mercedes. I'm glad I didn't. A customer I was talking that day owned a 2003 and the replacement cost for the side LED mirror light was over $200 buckeroos!
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 08-30-2012).]
" I remember back in the day wanting to get a Mercedes. I'm glad I didn't. A customer I was talking that day owned a 2003 and the replacement cost for the side LED mirror light was over $200 buckeroos!"
I started to look at buying a Chrysler Crossfire today, but the price of Benz parts kept creeping into my decision. It looks like I made the right choice.
this type stuff happens on ALL cars.. when you change from stock.. be it ride height, to wider wheels.. add in a driver that DRIVES his car hard and these things show up.. sometimes it's an engineering problem.. mistu is famous for cutting corners... but the same thing happens to 64-88 g.m. a/g bodys and most cars for the 60's till now.. that where not designed for wide sticky meats.. my 99 grand mork was starting to crack at the lower a arm, all 4 of me chevelles had at least one a arm with stress cracks.. the 99 grand mark uppers are cast iron... not stamped steel.. front drive cars add more stress to these parts as those wheels are the drive wheels.. I'm kinda shocked the mistu didn't have front struts..towers and cracks in the tower itself
Cheap stamped upper control arm. Tubular would be better, but I'll have to look around. Right now I'm back to using the winter rollers. 215/45/18 front and 225/40/18 rear. 18x7 front and 18x8 rear. The winter rollers aren't as nice looking but are lighter than the 19".
This will be the third time replacing the handle.
I've decided to beef-up the handle using my previous broken one. Although, my work car currently has 280,000 miles on the engine 
I never would've thought I'd have issues with door handles not to mention beefing up upper A-arms. 
