I got my first Fiero staring to run, however I would like to rebuild the engine as I suspect there was water in the engine at one point.
Does anyone have a guide or list of all the parts that would go into a complete rebuild, also if there are any original manuals that are recommended to use as reference?
Thank you!
[This message has been edited by DWalker25 (edited 12-02-2025).]
Does anyone have a guide or list of all the parts that would go into a complete rebuild, also if there are any original manuals that are recommended to use as reference?
As to manuals, I use a printed copy of the Pontiac Fiero Service Manual, some may like Haynes, Chilton's or other manuals: https://fieroinfo.com/manuals/
------------------ Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles
As to manuals, I use a printed copy of the Pontiac Fiero Service Manual, some may like Haynes, Chilton's or other manuals: https://fieroinfo.com/manuals/
Well at the least right i should replace all the gaskets and seals if i rebuild it? I guess i dont know yet if any of the hard parts actually need to be replaced vs just wanting to replace them.
If you just got it running, depending how the water got into the engine & how long it sat, suggest changing oil & filter, then see how it does.
If it's a blown head gasket, then that the 1st repair to tackle. Was the oil milky or foamy ? How did you determine water was in the engine ?
Good luck with your project. We have many experts here that can help you.
When i bought it, It had sat at least for a year the previous owner said. So after i got it running I changed the Oil and Filter, The old oil was milky, however checking the new oil i put in after running in for about 2 hours total the newer oil is not milky.
The two reason i am looking at rebuilding it, One to learn more about engines and cars, and currently the engine does not run very well and cuts off randomly. Battery checks out good however it's not new but test with 90% health and good charge, and alternator is pushing about 12.5 Volts which I think is kind of low but maybe it's not letting it hold charge.
TO ME - You really need a good reason to rebuild your engine, normally I had a specific 'why'...
Bad Rings? Leaking Valves? Bottom end knock?
Also, if you're planning to rebuild it, be aware to do it, this means dropping the cradle which needs a special set-up.
Yes, some jobs can be done without pulling the engine; others are a 'must'.
My suggestion is to keep your eye on the engine oil, check the compression as a base line, and work on the car until you have a good reason to rebuild your engine.
Battery checks out good however it's not new but test with 90% health and good charge, and alternator is pushing about 12.5 Volts which I think is kind of low but maybe it's not letting it hold charge.
Battery checks out good however it's not new but test with 90% health and good charge, and alternator is pushing about 12.5 Volts which I think is kind of low but maybe it's not letting it hold charge.
Note: Start with a fully charged battery as the Generator/Alternator will not even try to charge an undercharged battery
Charge the battery / Use a voltmeter to measure the battery after a day / 12.5 DC volts or better If the battery won't hold 12.5 DC - replace it
Put the battery in the vehicle and start the engine. Use a voltmeter to measure the battery at idle AND 3k RPM You need 13.5 DC volts to 14.5 DC volts, if not, check the Generator/Alternator Belt Tension
If the Generator/Alternator won't charge a good battery at 13.5 -14.5 DC volts, more troubleshooting needed....
