So, I was trying to find my original post on this, but I think I piggy backed on someone else. One of the things I've done on my daughter's car restoration that she couldn't do, was the torsion bars. I felt it was just a bit too dangerous for her to get her hands in the wrong spot, and it required a lot... I mean a lot of strength. I tried all the little tips and tricks I could find, none of them worked. I ended up using brute strength, and the most I could possibly muster (to be honest), was the middle hole on the passenger side, and the bottom hole on the driver's side... and with that, the decklid STILL won't stay up on it's own. It's almost there. If the one on the driver's side could also make it to the middle, it might work... but I was honestly just totally over it.
Anyway, I bought Rodney's decklid gas strut, and installed it on the driver's side (where there's less stuff going on). It works awesome...
...and it required a lot... I mean a lot of strength. I tried all the little tips and tricks I could find, none of them worked. I ended up using brute strength, and the most I could possibly muster (to be honest), was the middle hole on the passenger side, and the bottom hole on the driver's side
It's a matter of technique, not strength. I've posted about this several times over the years, including in This thread. I do something similar to what Buddy posted, but I don't use a ratcheting tie strap. All it takes is a 2x4, about 3' long (for leverage), and a length of strap or rope.
Okay, some images may be required here... using photos I found online (not my Fieros) and then doctored.
First, this is where the rope is looped through. It's at the end of each torsion rod.
And now the following two images show the positioning of the 2x4, and the rope attached to it. Notice the 2x4 does not go to the bottom of the trunk. It rests on the shelf.
Push or pull the top end of the 2x4 back. Takes one hand. With your other hand, move the adjustment pin. Repeat on the other side. (Perhaps put a short piece of wood between the bottom end of the 2x4 and the front edge of the trunk to dissipate the forward force of the bottom of the 2x4 against the trunk wall.)
Easy peasy.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-14-2025).]
So, I was trying to find my original post on this, but I think I piggy backed on someone else. One of the things I've done on my daughter's car restoration that she couldn't do, was the torsion bars. I felt it was just a bit too dangerous for her to get her hands in the wrong spot, and it required a lot... I mean a lot of strength. I tried all the little tips and tricks I could find, none of them worked. I ended up using brute strength, and the most I could possibly muster (to be honest), was the middle hole on the passenger side, and the bottom hole on the driver's side... and with that, the decklid STILL won't stay up on it's own. It's almost there. If the one on the driver's side could also make it to the middle, it might work... but I was honestly just totally over it.
Anyway, I bought Rodney's decklid gas strut, and installed it on the driver's side (where there's less stuff going on). It works awesome...
That is sweet. I recently bought another Fiero and it has two gas struts (one each side). They attach from the rear window area, in the engine to the azz end of the deck lid. Ugly and very strong, I have to use two hands/arms to close the deck lid.
The torsion bar in my 87 Fiero broke... It was wild... just broke one day while I was sitting at a stop light. I heard a loud bang in the back of my car and pulled over. People don't grease them, and so the pivot point tends to wear and break.
Patrick, I love you man, I tried every kind of way... it just wasn't meant to be. There's a point in time when you just have to say... the juice is not worth the squeeze. I've spent multiple weekends trying to get them into the right slots. I work out in the gym three days a week... I'm now just under 250 pounds, almost all muscle and no "dad bod." I'm basically the physical status of an NFL tight end, without the football skills.
I tried straps, ropes, bungee cords, boards, I even prayed. My neighbors have never heard such language before as what was coming from my garage. The only way I was able to get the pins into the holes where they are now is through brute hand strength... and I'm just totally over it.
For $80 bucks, I bought a strut from Rodney... and the clouds outside immediately parted and the sun started shining.
Todd, as I said earlier... it's technique, not brute strength that's required.
I didn't post what I did above to attempt to get you to re-investigate the issue. I just thought I'd post my "how to" here so that I can copy and paste it into future threads when decklid torsion bar adjustment is brought up.
Todd, as I said earlier... it's technique, not brute strength that's required.
I didn't post what I did above to attempt to get you to re-investigate the issue. I just thought I'd post my "how to" here so that I can copy and paste it into future threads when decklid torsion bar adjustment is brought up.
Yeah, I understand. Honestly, it was getting to the point that I felt I was doing more harm than good working on the car. I was starting to break things, and I was messing up the near-perfect paint job that my daughter had everywhere... and I finally said... "f-it" and decided to get this.
