Need help. I have a 1988 with the 2.5 liter with factory air conditioning. It has 19k original miles and I am the second owner. Still has the original tires on it.
Anyway, I want to change all the hoses, and having an impossible time finding the hoses in the back engine compartment. I bought several hoses from older years thinking that something would fit. Nope!
I need the following: Thermostat housing to pipe on drivers side. Water pump to pipe on passenger side. Heater hose on the passenger side (rear) that “Tee’s” off the same pipe as the water pump hose…. I think this is the heater return hose. This heater hose has like a high pressure type compression fitting to the steel heater pipe, but has a hose clamp on the side that connects to the radiator pipe on passenger side.
Also need that heater hose that connects to the underside of the intake manifold area…. It has a threaded type fitting on the intake side, but has a compression type fitting on the other end. I initially thought this was a fuel line, but nope … it’s a heater hose.
I never would have thought 1988 coolant hoses would be non-existent, when you can seem to get hoses for a 1984 model?
Any help would be very appreciated I was looking at Flex stainless steel, but these are super expensive. What has other people done for 1988 4cyl 2.5l w/AC coolant hoses?
Likely have to get "universal" hoses and maybe more to fit some coolant hoses.
You can find strait bendy/flex hose at many local stores. Some have or can order flex hose w/ 90° form bend at 1 end.
Flex hose may need extra support to bend around and fit whatever space w/o rubbing other things.
You need to replace the tires even if "looked" ok to you. Tires can "rot" inside out from shop and other compressed air carrying water oil and worse when inflated them.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Thank you. I appreciate the response. I was leaning on getting the universal flex type, but wanted to check to make sure. I’m definitely going to replace the tires too. This is definitely a little time capsule that is like a brand new car. It’s just that time has dictated all the little things get replaced. Thanks again
I was able to get the molded hoses for the front radiator (upper radiator to pipe and lower radiator to pipe).
However, the molded hoses for the engine are no longer available. I pulled the T-stat to pipe and water pump to pipe out and took them to the auto parts store to try and get a close match to something they had hanging in the back room.
Gates Molded Hoses matching up the auto parts store hoses… T-stat housing to pipe Gates number 22043 However, it is Approximately 1/4” little bit to Big inner diameter. It is ALMOST an EXACT match to the factory hose… almost. It fits nicely, but the inner diameter is juuust a little too big.
Gates molded hose for water pump from matching at auto parts store… Water pump to pipe Gates number 23294 Fits snug around things… meaning clearances Clears the A/C pulley but not a lot.
On the T-stat housing hose… I’m on the fence and not too much experience on clamps, or doubling clamps on a hose that’s inner diameter about 1/4” too big…fits easily… sort of loose.
Do I just double clamp???
The water pump to pipe… On the fence … pressurized it should still clear the A/C compressor pulley and belt, but I’m just not warm and fuzzy about it.
So, I got the following Gates Universal Flex hoses.
T-stat housing to pipe on drivers side Universal Flex Gates 25265
Water pump to pipe on passenger side Universal Flex Gates 25262
I installed these universal flex gates hoses. I’m keeping the other auto parts store “close matches” in case I’m in a bind and need to get back on the road… emergency garage (or trunk) stock
Wanted to share this as so far there have been little quirks on this 1988 Fiero 2.5l year vs my experience owning a 1984 Fiero 2.5
I also bought GM Service manuals (nice new reprints 2 volumes) for the 1988 Fiero Also still have my original Haynes manual I bought back in 1989
Now I need help on the factory heater hoses.. They have factory crimped ends like a hydraulic pressure hose. The hose under the passenger side heater pipe to the coolant pipe. One side is a crimped compression type end, the other end into the coolant tube has a hose clamp.
Then the heater hose that goes under the intake manifold with a Quick connect (I think) and the other end has that pressure crimp fitting to the little tube (heater tube).
The short hoses that go from the heater tube (mechanical crimp) to the coolant tube (passenger side has hose clamp.
And that other heater hose that goes from engine compartment tube (mechanical crimp) to that quick connect under the intake.
Nothing is wrong with them
I’m just trying to do preventative maintenance. The car has 19k original miles and I am the second owner.
I replaced the coolant hoses as described in my above posts.
They are just physically old.
Seems like a can of worms sort of. I would have replaced them if they were all hose clamps, but… Once I cut the mechanical crimp fittings, I’m at the point of no return.
Don’t want to create a disaster for myself unless it’s necessary.
Before I fill the system back up with antifreeze Do I just go ahead with it, or wait for them to blow ( eventually or maybe never)
Likely have to get "universal" hoses and maybe more to fit some coolant hoses.
You can find strait bendy/flex hose at many local stores. Some have or can order flex hose w/ 90° form bend at 1 end.
Flex hose may need extra support to bend around and fit whatever space w/o rubbing other things.
Bendy/flex/universal hoses can put restrictions in the system that lead to overheating. Before you go the bendy/flex/universal hose route, try to get the original hoses off on one piece. (You may have to cut the hose at the spigot to remove it.) Then, take the hose to the auto parts store and try to match up the bends in the hose with something in the store. You may have to cut off the ends but you should be able to find something close.
I did this when I brought my GT to Australia. Australian Customs Inspectors decided that the under car cleaning that I gave the car before putting it in the container was not sufficient. Their contractor (Customs Agents don't do the actual work nor will they let you do it) put the car on a 2-post lift and proceeded to high pressure wash the underside. In the process, they actually cut through the formed hose connecting the left-side SS pipe to the engine. Trying to use a flex hose to repair it was causing the car to overheat. An hour in the local AutoBarn parts store resulted in a hose for a GM Holden Commodore with the correct bends in the middle of the hose. A razor-knife and two jubilee (screw-type) band clamps and the problem was solved.
(edited for spelling and grammar)
[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 02-19-2023).]
I would squeeze the hoses to make sure they are not soft anywhere. Pay particular attention to the ends, and anywhere they may have rubbed. For some reason, hoses seem to be "sturdier" than they used to.
The hose that "Ts" into the coolant pipe on the passenger side... If you want, just cut through the crimp, peel it off, and remove and replace the hose. Under the crimp, the pipe has a "lip" like any other hose nipple. Just clamp both ends.
Sorry. Can't help with the sourcing of the rear hoses. Rodney Dickman has (had?) most of the others.
"Small" heater hose... First get new hose. 3/4" I believe and often Non Stocked at many local stores but can order often overnight w/o shipping change. Order 2 or 3 feet min because cheap and use it in other places on Fiero. Example: Often need this to eliminate connection near F-filter just behind right rear floor on V6 and DIS Dukes. Maybe other dukes have same but their F-filters are on the engine.
Use a "Dremel" and cut off wheel to split the crimp. Then use standard clamps w/ new hose.
GM use the crimp and more on coolant system just to save time making cars. Can easy replace many of that but not all. See my Cave, Heater If leaking at connector under the intake need a new connector. Ignore Dorman etc saying the part won't fit Fiero.
I keep one in case I have to disconnect for any reason. While seems PnP often fails and leaks when reused. Is why you try fixing other issues w/o disconnect or moving this joint.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-21-2023).]
I bought that coolant hose quick fitting for under the intake from the Fiero Store already. I didn’t want to disconnect it in case it turned out to be a fan of worms.
The heads up on that is much appreciated that it leaks when snapping it back together .
When I went to change the heater hoses at the heater core, the large top heater core tube just snapped off inside the hose. I never seen that happen ever.
I was like huh.., So I got a new heater core and installed it already; pretty straightforward.
So all this help is so very much appreciated. This helps to see what I might run into and helps plan.
Regarding the Heater hose that goes to that Quick connect fitting under the intake manifold…. I bought a threaded heater hose fitting that threads directly into the intake manifold, and the other end is 5/8” hose size that I can use a hose clamp on; eliminating that quick connect.
The part number is Doorman Help 56356 Photo attached
Regarding the Heater hose that goes to that Quick connect fitting under the intake manifold…. I bought a threaded heater hose fitting that threads directly into the intake manifold, and the other end is 5/8” hose size that I can use a hose clamp on; eliminating that quick connect.
The part number is Doorman Help 56356 Photo attached
I installed the heater hose fitting under the intake manifold and had to recut the 5/8” hose as it was just slightly too short. I had used the old one to copy, and then when installing the new hose, I realized the new fitting is about 1” to 1-1/2” shorter than the quick connect set up.
The next thing is since it’s such a narrow space to work in, I couldn’t get both hands in there …. One to hold the hose clamp, the other to tighten.
With patience, I was able to do it with one hand and a little socket with 1/4” drive. I tightened the clamp just enough to get it up over the hump on the hose at the fitting, and tighten. It was a dexterity balance using the ratchet and a finger or two to get it tightened .
I see why they used a quick connect.
I have the quick connect set up if I ever needed to change it, but for now I feel better that it won’t leak at a quick connect.
It took me 20 minutes or so after screwing in the hose fitting into the manifold to get the hose clamp tightened.
I put the hose on the intake side first, then lay down and through the wheel well, slipped 2 hose clamps and then plugged the other end of the hose on to the heater pipe.
Then the dexterity balance described above on tightening the clamp on the intake side hose. The hose connected to the heater pipe was easy.
Just wanted to share in case anyone else decides this route.
I don't know if this is too late for you, but I lost the thermostat housing to coolant pipe in my 88. I found that a gates 23729 will work. put the 90 degree bend at the top and you have to do a little trimming on the ends to make it fit. it worked for me. My car is a bare bones L4, not sure if air or any other options would get in your way.
