Does the flywheel really need to be changed ? Or just cleaned up and rebalance?

There is a maximum amount of material that can be removed, but resurfacing a flywheel is fine. There is some debate whether or not a flywheel shim is then required (equal to the thickness of metal removed), but they're inexpensive and at least offer peace of mind.

I've replaced a number of clutch kits over the years and only once had to replace one. It was badly heatchecked with a lot of hairline cracks. My policy is that as long as they aren't scored or have cracks and I can take an orbital pad sander and polish off the blue heat spots, I simply reuse it. Inspect the starter ring teeth, too.

quote Originally posted by fierofool: My policy is that as long as they aren't scored or have cracks and I can take an orbital pad sander and polish off the blue heat spots, I simply reuse it.

Geez... with all the hassle it is to change a clutch in a Fiero, I would never do that.

I say either have the flywheel resurfaced properly, or get a new one.

I guess I've been lucky. Never had a problem.

quote Originally posted by fierofool: I guess I've been lucky. Never had a problem.

Me as well...
I don't to anything to the flywheel most times other then light sanding to knock off rusting and use Brake Clean.
Nearly all clutch fails for me is diaphragm spring pressure plates used in many cars not just Fiero because they break from "wearing out" in heavy traffic.
Any small wreck etc and you can spend Hours in Stop & Go traffic on the Surekill (Schuykill) Expressway and many others. NJTP below Exit 4 is giant pain too. "Side roads" either gets jammed too or takes you so far out of the way isn't worth bothering.

Is why I laugh at most people saying stick cars are "fun."

If a F-wheel has a little wear, can be turned sim to Brake parts. And most times won't need rebalance or a "shim."
If has any cranking or big wear problems then most time replacing is needed.
Are ways fix major wear problems but often many times more the cost then replacing w/ new or good use F-wheel for cars.

Is spec's on turning same as brake parts but I don't have them easy to post.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

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For optimum grip and maximum clutch disc durability, it's imperative that all clamping surfaces are perfectly flat (and smooth).

quote Originally posted by fierofool: I guess I've been lucky. Never had a problem.

Charlie, perhaps you treat your Fiero(s) very gently. I autocrossed a couple of mine for quite a few years, and I drove them hard. I didn't wish to be replacing clutches on a regular basis, so any car that I replace the clutch in, I have the flywheel machined/resurfaced. I replaced the clutch in my Formula eight years ago (with a run of the mill LuK unit), and it still grabs perfectly.... despite all the "abuse" I've put it through.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-24-2021).]

I don't put mine through the rigors of autocrossing, but Run For The Hills and associated scouting runs gives them a continuous 6-8 hour pummeling. I don't spin tires, slam gears, or the like, but I do technically abuse them. I always make sure my clutch is fully engaged before pouring in the juice. Lots of up and down shifting on the runs. I try to give the V8's and Superchargers a run for their money.

Hard launches, over and over again, are probably what take the greatest toll on clutches.