Thank you for the add to the forum! I've been lurking and getting information from the group for over a year and really appreciate the help.
After owning the car for 16 months it is running well and gets me back and forth to work (60 miles). It’s a 66,000-mile original GT that sat for around 12 years. The issue I’m having now is the Muncie 4-speed grinds when up-shifting to 3rd and 4th. Everything else with the transmission is fine. Below are the things I’ve done to remedy the situation.
1. Replaced clutch master cylinder (banjo facing up)
2. Rebuilt clutch slave cylinder
3. Adjusted cables using manufacturer specs
4. Steel clutch pedal
5. Drained/filled with recommended 5W-30
6. Drained/filled with Syncromesh
Could the synchros be out after only 66K?
Could the cables be stretched/worn?
Thanks in advance for WORTHWHILE suggestions.

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1986 Fiero GT
Muncie 4-speed
2.8L V6

Welcome to the forum! Sorry, I have no suggestions that are worthwhile.

Just a stab in the dark - how are the bushings on the shifter?

Thanks Gall757!

Topcat I'll take a look at that, thank you for the suggestion. Nothing feels sloppy when shifting but it can't hurt. Currently looking through the service manual to see if there's something I missed.

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1986 Fiero GT
Muncie 4-speed
2.8L V6

quote Originally posted by Ronbo4786: Could the synchros be out after only 66K?

Sure, why not? There are a lot of yahoo drivers out there. Did you do something to cause the grinding?

Normally, if you're grinding, you'll have to split the transmission case to investigate. Until then, double-clutch to keep from breaking things further.

I'm assuming that your clutch is disengaging fully... it's hard not to notice when a clutch isn't disengaging.

Thanks pmBrunelle!

If I double-clutch or shift slowly from 2-3 or 3-4 it usually doesn't grind. I'll continue to do that.
I'm considering reaccomplishing the cable adjustment procedures although it probably won't change things.

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1986 Fiero GT
Muncie 4-speed
2.8L V6

If double-clutching makes the transmission work as it should, that points squarely at the synchronizers, and not the cables.

Try this... pull clip connector from coil so engine won't start. Put trans in 1st gear. Keep clutch pedal all the way down as you would normally do when shifting. Make sure your parked on level surface. Try to start engine. If car moves the slightest, you found the problem. Clutch disc not disengaging from flywheel properly.

If this is so, then have a willing subject monitor the clutch slave for proper movement of the push rod (with engine off) while you push in the clutch pedal.
Double clutching can also create further travel, sort of like pumping the brakes.

If travel is sufficient and the car didn't move in the 1st test above, then it may be time to entertain the idea of inspecting the synchronizers, just in case.

ps: Don't forget to put the coil connector back on.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

Spoon - Thank you for the suggestion . . . I will enlist the aid of my spousal unit and try those things this weekend.

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1986 Fiero GT
Muncie 4-speed
2.8L V6

Realigning the shifter cables may also help. It may be that the select cable isn't allowing the shifter to move fully to the 3-4 gate.