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wstefan20's First Fiero Build and Help Thead by wstefan20
Started on: 03-14-2018 06:18 PM
Replies: 39 (866 views)
Last post by: wstefan20 on 06-14-2018 07:46 PM
wstefan20
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Report this Post03-14-2018 06:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, my dreams finally came true! I found a 1984 Pontiac Fiero SE! For those of you who don't know, the 84 SEs came usually as automatic L4 Iron dukes. Meh.

My dream is to swap for something more substantial down the road, but this is what I'm working with right now.

History:

The car has last been driven way back in 05, and never attempted to repair or drive since. I have no idea why since the owner passed away and it just sat in a field.
Its had a four or so owners, so it's been around, but surprisingly, for the most part, the body is in-tact and not much is missing.

The electronics are going to be well... fun (see below)

I was too embarrased to post a picture of what it looked like before anything since it was duller than a crayon, but here it is after a bit of shining:

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

Now here is where I need some help. I noticed some janky wiring and missing stuff, and was hoping someone could help identify the wiring. I'm pretty good with wiring diagrams, but I'm new to the platform, so any help is greatly appreciated.

What are these hoses? I'm guessing maybe power steering fluid and something else like that?



This looks like a grounding wire? It's going to the decklid



This is on the passenger side firewall. Green wire is detached and not sure about the red one either....



Pretty sure this goes to the trunk release (which is missing along with the lock)



Not sure about this. This is the driver's side by the taillight. Green wire is cut.



Anyone know where to get replacement evap lines (I'm assuming that this is the evap canister)? or do you just use rubber generic replacements?



This was the best of all... it speaks for itself...



Looks like someone tried to hotwire the starter to me.... anyone know what these are?



And I saved the best for last.... I'm missing a few fuses.... this is going to be fun....

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Report this Post03-14-2018 06:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

What are these hoses? I'm guessing maybe power steering fluid and something else like that?


That must be a pretty special '84 SE you've got there!

That looks like a challenging project. Welcome to PFF.

 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

The car has last been driven way back in 05, and never attempted to repair or drive since. I have no idea why since the owner passed away and it just sat in a field.


Before you get too far into this car, have you checked the rear frame rails for rust?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-14-2018).]

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wstefan20
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Report this Post03-14-2018 08:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Before you get too far into this car, have you checked the rear frame rails for rust?





Underside looks ok. Still have the factory plastic so I'll have to remove it to check later! Thanks for the heads up!
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wstefan20
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Report this Post03-14-2018 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Before you get too far into this car, have you checked the rear frame rails for rust?





Underside looks ok. Still have the factory plastic so I'll have to remove it to check later! Thanks for the heads up!
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wstefan20
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Report this Post03-15-2018 10:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, it might not be "as bad" as I thought at first. Those "tubes" coming up that are taped off are to the a/c system.

The good news with that is that it explains a few of the missing fuses and the wiring hackjob since they had to bypass the a/c system, and the a/c system is not my priority right now anyhow.

The bad news is that if I ever want the a/c system to work again, I'll need to get pretty much every component of the a/c system and change all gaskets and clean thoroughly before using....

I was right, the decklid wire loose is to the remote trunk release (missing), and the wiring has actually be routed to the other side anyhow by someone, so that loose wire is literally nothing.

Janky fan switch is what has me most concerned, but I think that's the least of my problems at the moment. No idea what shape the engine is in.

On the bright side, I got the battery that came with it at least partially charging! It measured a whopping .1V when I tested initially, and it's almost at full capacity now! I know I'll have to replace it soon, but hey, it'll work to see what crap the electrical system is in.

Also, found a complete service manual for 88 (which does have differences), but I'm hoping things are close enough.
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Report this Post03-15-2018 12:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for AWautoworksSend a Private Message to AWautoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome to the addiction.

One of my tow truck drivers literally just told me this morning about towing this to you. There are a few in KCFOG in your area. between Chris(Eph-kay) on the foum and I we can get most of your questions answered. He does engine swaps, tuning and suspension geometry. and I do all the body work for the club.
As far as the club in KC goes we meet twice a month. 2nd and 4th Monday
The 2nd monday is in lees summit at the Dairy Queen on douglas st
the 4th monday is at the corner cafe in riverside MO
We plan a few cruises through out the year. A couple BBQ's and our annual Fiero Fun Fest.



this is one of my favorite builds i have achieved so far. its a fun one

[This message has been edited by AWautoworks (edited 03-15-2018).]

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wstefan20
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Report this Post03-16-2018 08:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That is awesome! I didn't know there was a big following in the area! This is gonna need some serious body work... I've never messed with fiberglass before...

As an update, weather was good today so I was able to do some work. Engine actually turns over after all these years! Coolant system definitely needs flushed, fluids changed etc. Not counting on the engine being any good, but hey, if it is, that's more money towards the swap!

I think I want to tackle some of the electrical before I go doing anything else though.. found this connector loose too



Finally pulled off the wheel cover to find this:

[VIDEO]https://youtu.be/8Q7Vs18BChY[/VIDEO]

looks like the actual frame is still holding on, but there's definitely places where I need to cut out pretty bad. Anything I should do to slow things down while I save up?
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Report this Post03-16-2018 09:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

Finally pulled off the wheel cover to find this:



looks like the actual frame is still holding on, but there's definitely places where I need to cut out pretty bad. Anything I should do to slow things down while I save up?


Uh oh...

I'm not wanting to be a buzz-kill, but that might just be a parts car.

Seriously, I wouldn't be spending any money on that Fiero. There are much better ones out there available for next to nothing.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-17-2018).]

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Report this Post03-16-2018 10:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would have to agree with Patrick. Parts car for sure.
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wstefan20
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Report this Post03-17-2018 08:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah. I'll definitely have to do some thinking. Most of the bad rust is on the sheet metal not the frame, but it's still bad. The driver's side just has surface rust. Strange.

Why on earth did pontiac not have a better way for water to exit under the grills? It's obvious that is what caused the rust. Idk. I'd hate to scrap a car like this. Doubt I could really make anything in the condition it's in...

That being said, this didn't look as bad as the ones in the YouTube videos. I might try my hand at welding...
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Report this Post03-17-2018 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

Why on earth did pontiac not have a better way for water to exit under the grills? It's obvious that is what caused the rust. Idk.


Water alone did not cause this level of rust. It's water and salt (and in some places, battery acid) that's rotted the metal away.

 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

I'd hate to scrap a car like this. Doubt I could really make anything in the condition it's in...


Judging from your images... the reality of the situation is that unless your time is worth nothing, you'll not make a dime off this car. It is in very sad shape.
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Report this Post03-17-2018 10:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good thought. I hadn't thought of battery acid. That makes a lot of sense since the other side is great. I know the battery was left in there for years and I bet that's what did it in.

I'm by no means expecting an easy repair or to make any money off this project at all. I work on cars as a hobby. I was simply saying that I don't think parting it out would be worth it.

Given it's shape and how I want t things to look in the end, I think my best option is to wait till summer, strip everything down to the frame, have the panels re- finished off the car and get the frame sand blasted and powder coated. Then just prep the cradle and the new engine and swap it in and do things in stages. Also would be convenient to get things re- upholstered too! Luckily I have a "guy" for most of that, and the rest I'll do myself. Definitely a summer project.
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Report this Post03-20-2018 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Alright, so still messing around with the engine for fun and have some questions. Got the engine to turn over, changed all the fluids, wouldn't start. Sprayed some starting fluid down and it backfired. Compression test was really low from 1-4 was 90, 90, 60, 60. Same result on wet test. Used a leak down tester on cylinder 1 tdc and had air escaping on exhaust. Hadn't tested others.

1. How do I determine if the timing gear skipped or is stripped?

2. How do I know if the distributor is installed correctly and set correctly? (I've never had a car with a distributor before)

3. How do I know if the wires are on the distributor correctly? The order is correct but there doesn't appear to be a marking like I've read to indicate cylinder 1....

Anything else I'm missing?

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Report this Post03-20-2018 11:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetfightervClick Here to Email jetfightervSend a Private Message to jetfightervEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
hey just noticed you got it and are on the fourms if ya need anything motor wise for this motor I got quite a few parts since youve helped me out so much with the gtp
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wstefan20
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Report this Post03-20-2018 12:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jetfighterv:

hey just noticed you got it and are on the fourms if ya need anything motor wise for this motor I got quite a few parts since youve helped me out so much with the gtp


Thanks man! Any clue on the timing issue on mine? How did you test for fuel pressure? I'm trying to avoid cutting the fuel line...
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Report this Post04-02-2018 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, finally figured out what was going on with this car... brace yourselves, this will be long...

So, from what I can gather at this point, the a/c locked up, so instead of repair it, the owner removed the compressor, manifold lines, belt, and simply cut the connectors. Unfortunately, they quickly realized that the secondary a/c fan is linked to the a/c system which they removed, so they bypassed the relay to send battery power straight to the fan and used a home light switch to "control" the fan by ground switch. All the factory wiring is there, just the connectors have been cut. They also removed the temperature sending sensor connector so that control of the fans was completely controlled by the switch.

Somewhere along the line either they're "superior wiring" job shorted, or the old alternator output caused a massive power surge which blew most all the fuses and the computer. Fortunately, as far as I can tell, the rest of the systems were undamaged, but they gave up at this point and let it sit back in 05. From there, someone recently tried parts swapping to try to get it running just like I am, but found the electrical issues and gave up and decided to sell the car for next to nothing to me.

I've taken the original wiring harness apart and checked it and there's nothing wrong other than the splicing and connector cutting they did. Not sure where I'll go from here...
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Report this Post04-04-2018 01:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for da.slyboyClick Here to Email da.slyboySend a Private Message to da.slyboyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Looks like the idea of an engine swap may be sooner than you would like. Since you have to deal with getting the harness figured out, a new ECM, probably a new fuel pump since it's been sitting for years, and have to remove items to deal with rust issues, why not just start with a swap now? It doesn't sound like this was to be a daily driver, and you are willing to put the time into the car. Better to start with a swap now, then spend extra time and funds for a motor that you are wanting to replace anyway.
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Report this Post04-04-2018 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by da.slyboy:

Looks like the idea of an engine swap may be sooner than you would like. Since you have to deal with getting the harness figured out, a new ECM, probably a new fuel pump since it's been sitting for years, and have to remove items to deal with rust issues, why not just start with a swap now? It doesn't sound like this was to be a daily driver, and you are willing to put the time into the car. Better to start with a swap now, then spend extra time and funds for a motor that you are wanting to replace anyway.


You're probably right. My original thought process was if I can drive it on the stock engine, I have time to save up for stuff and slowly upgrade the suspension components and things instead of just dropping that much all at once.

I had a buddy of mine take a look at the rust, and for the most part, it isn't structural, but mainly the sheet metal. It just looks really bad. The frame rail is actually pretty solid. I'm thinking I'll just cut out the rot for not on the sheet metal, strip everything down to bare metal, por15 or something like that, then just temporarily spray with some thick spray can paint to ward off rust until I have time and money to deal with it.

I'm really stuck now between doing a 3800 swap and an LSX swap. If I'm going to do an LSX swap, I'm going to go full out and grab a newer LS3 or something and adapt it to the 4L65E for the gxp rather than LS4 swap. I'm looking into swapping the LS4 crank, flexplate, and accessories onto another LS block to fix space issues, and going from there. The other option is do a turbo 3800 and just built it from the block up with forged internals and boost the crap out of it. Not really sure at this point though. I have more experience with rebuilding 3800s and 4T65E's so there's that...

I already replaced the fuel pump (it was like $20 total), filter, rubber lines, and cleaned it, changed all the fluids, spark plugs, air filter, and a few other minor things. It already turns over and wants to start, but without the computer it obviously won't run.... fortunately I just got a computer that someone on facebook group graciously gave me for the price of shipping! (I'll leave them anonymous just in case they want me to...). So I think I'll leave the a/c stuff alone, repair the wiring harness, and just leave it for now until I know whether the engine is good and whether it will even run before diving into that! Lots to think about...
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Report this Post04-05-2018 09:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AWautoworksSend a Private Message to AWautoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:
I'm really stuck now between doing a 3800 swap and an LSX swap. ...


You really need to come to one of the local meetings or one of our events just to see what all the locals have done. There are so many other options than just a 3800 or LSX. I for instance have a 3900 soon to have a turbo. some other cool swap choices with members have been 3.4 which is just a lower end swap, 2.8 aluminum head turbo, Northstar swap, 4.9 Cadillac, 283 sbc although I don't know if he still has that car. we do have a few 3800 SC swaps and a 5.3 swap too.


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wstefan20
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Report this Post04-05-2018 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by AWautoworks:


You really need to come to one of the local meetings or one of our events just to see what all the locals have done. There are so many other options than just a 3800 or LSX. I for instance have a 3900 soon to have a turbo. some other cool swap choices with members have been 3.4 which is just a lower end swap, 2.8 aluminum head turbo, Northstar swap, 4.9 Cadillac, 283 sbc although I don't know if he still has that car. we do have a few 3800 SC swaps and a 5.3 swap too.



I know! I really want to come to one, but I have classes Monday from 8:00am-9:45pm (yay engineering...). I'm tempted to skip classes one day just cause...
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wstefan20
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Report this Post04-14-2018 09:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, I've done it now.... haha. Lost the key so I ended up replacing the lock cylinder, while putting my battery back on, my wrench hit the frame and arced. No fuses are blown, but now there is absolutely no power to anything. I'm assuming it blew a fusable link? Anyone have any diagrams showing their location? Any other thoughts?
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Report this Post04-14-2018 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

...while putting my battery back on, my wrench hit the frame and arced.


Here's a tip... connect the positive cable first, then the negative one.

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Report this Post04-14-2018 10:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Here's a tip... connect the positive cable first, then the negative one.


Thanks patrick.... I did. The positive terminal was a bit loose so I went to tighten it. Someone used a 5" valve cover bolt for some reason. I thought I was far enough away. Obviously i was not. I'd appreciate any actual constructive advice on fusable link locations?
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Report this Post04-14-2018 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86.4SPD.GTSend a Private Message to 86.4SPD.GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm not sure if you will be able to view this or not, but I am going to try to post THIS LINK to a PDF file which has a bunch of the 1984 SE wiring diagrams. There is also a bunch of free manuals you can download located HERE

I'm a bit 'old school' and still prefer surfing the internet on my laptop so I'm not sure if the link(s) I provide will be any help to you unless you are on a PC.

I hope it helps and you are able to keep moving forward on your Fiero project.
Good luck!
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Report this Post04-14-2018 11:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86.4SPD.GTSend a Private Message to 86.4SPD.GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I will post a couple more that I have found that may help you out in your journey(I do hope that you are on a device that will allow you to view them):

ALL KINDS OF FIERO INFORMATION

There is another site where you can download the Chiltons and Haynes manuals along with the 1987 factory service manual HERE (NOTE: You may have to use the word "freebee" as the password)

HTH
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Report this Post04-15-2018 04:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 86.4SPD.GT:

I will post a couple more that I have found that may help you out in your journey(I do hope that you are on a device that will allow you to view them):

ALL KINDS OF FIERO INFORMATION

There is another site where you can download the Chiltons and Haynes manuals along with the 1987 factory service manual HERE (NOTE: You may have to use the word "freebee" as the password)

HTH


Thanks! I'll definitely be using this information in the future!

Unfortunately for me, I am a bigger idiot than I thought. Forgot to screw the main wiring harness connector in to the firewall! Nothing was damaged at all!

So now I have the computer in, I tried to check the ignition and fuel pressure and this happened!!!

[This message has been edited by wstefan20 (edited 04-15-2018).]

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Report this Post04-15-2018 04:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

So now I have the computer in, I tried to check the ignition and fuel pressure and this happened!!!


Ummm... was it not supposed to start? Is this a bad thing?

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Report this Post04-15-2018 04:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Ummm... was it not supposed to start? Is this a bad thing?


haha no patrick, I was just surprised! This car has been sitting in a field for 15 years! All I had done was drain, clean, fill the fuel tank and change the pump and filter, change the oil, fill the coolant, change spark plugs, repair some wiring, replace the computer, and just clean some things off and prime the oil pump! I wasn't expecting the engine to really even do anything!

Still could be a bad motor, but at least I know in general, the supporting systems and wiring are all good and the dash works!
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Report this Post04-15-2018 04:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

All I had done was drain, clean, fill the fuel tank and change the pump and filter, change the oil, fill the coolant, change spark plugs, repair some wiring, replace the computer, and just clean some things off and prime the oil pump!


I've resurrected several Fieros that have sat for years as well. It's always a thrill to hear them cough back into life! (Here's one.)

The one thing I would've added to your list is to have squirted some oil (preferably ATF) into each cylinder prior to starting the engine and letting it soak in for a day or so.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-15-2018).]

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Report this Post04-15-2018 05:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I've resurrected several Fieros that have sat for years as well. It's always a thrill to hear them cough back into life! (Here's one.)

The only thing I would've added to your list is to have squirted some oil (preferably ATF) into each cylinder prior to starting the engine and letting it soak in for a day or so.



Thanks Patrick! I forgot that I put some mystery oil in the cylinders and turned it by hand first just in case it was locked up. But you're right, it was a rush! Good work on the fiero in the video!
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wstefan20
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Report this Post06-06-2018 10:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Been a while since I've posted here, but I've made a bit of progress.

First, I repaired all the electrical "fun" that the prior owners inflicted. Everything is back to stock and working including the trunk lock. I even "upgraded" the radio with a 1.5 din out of my 02 grand prix with manual eq and cd I had lying around.

I grabbed some junk tires for $20 so I could take it off jack stands to make my landlord happy. First time using a manual tire changer... that was....fun....

Definitely going to have to replace the brakes. Used every method to try to extract the bleed screw and they are just way too rusted. Calipers and pitted, shame since the pad material looks like new, but it's just been sitting for too long.

Got it started back up again, but I really have to track down the coolant leak. Changed the transmission fluid and filter.

Ended up having to "rebuild" my throttle body so that was fun.

Anyways, here's a video of my fiero running. A rodent had crawled in the exhaust and made a nest, so I had the fun surprise of leaves coming out, thus it's new nickname "the leafblower"!

[This message has been edited by wstefan20 (edited 06-06-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post06-06-2018 10:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

Anyways, here's a video of my fiero running. A rodent had crawled in the exhaust and made a nest, so I had the fun surprise of leaves coming out, thus it's new nickname "The Leafblower"!


I suppose "The Leaf Blower" is a nicer nickname than "The Rodent Incinerator" or "The Gas Chamber".

 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:




Damn, if I knew it was vertical video I wouldn't have fixed the link.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-07-2018).]

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wstefan20
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Report this Post06-07-2018 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Damn, if I knew it was vertical video I wouldn't have fixed the link.



lol yeah.... not the best quality video, but I'm broke!

Well, finally found the leak! It's slow, but definitely there. How's the best way to get this piece out? I'm guessing it's a combination of an old hose, corrosion, and crappy hose clamps. Hopefully I can clean up the corrosion ok. Wish I had a lift!

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Patrick
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Report this Post06-07-2018 01:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

...not the best quality video, but I'm broke!


Simply do as the song says... and it won't cost you a dime!

 
quote

♫ If you please just turn your phone 90 degrees,

There's so much more for you to see,

When you film horizontally... ♫



...

 
quote
Originally posted by wstefan20:

How's the best way to get this piece out?


The metal piece? I'd be tempted to just remove the hose, clean the area of the metal fitting that the hose fits onto... and if the hose isn't rotted or cracked, clean it up as well and then perhaps double-clamp it.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-07-2018).]

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Red98422
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Report this Post06-12-2018 10:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Red98422Send a Private Message to Red98422Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
And for the love of all things holy use a nut driver to loosen the clamps. Looks like you will have to loosen the smaller hose clamp first to get it out of the way...a lot of times those hoses get stuck bad, just work it slowly and she should come free.
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AWautoworks
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Report this Post06-13-2018 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for AWautoworksSend a Private Message to AWautoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Come visit us at the kansas city River market. Its the 15th annual Fiero Fun Fest. June 24th from 10-2 at the downtown river market.
We should have quite a good showing this year.
you dont have to bring your car but come chat with us and see what everyone in the club has done
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post06-13-2018 07:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Must say that I admire your sense of perseverance and dedication.
Being in this hobby a long time I have found that most often it is better to spend a bit more on a running car in decent shape than to pick up a used up rusted hulk. The rust shown in these pictures is borderline ruin so do yourself a favor before you spend more time and money restoring and remove the rug in the trunk. Look in the sides for rust. If those areas are badly rusted away ; to save the car will probably cost far more than the cost of buying a solid car.
Don't mean to discourage your fun project but there are limits to what can or can't be done while being cost effective.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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wstefan20
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Report this Post06-14-2018 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

Must say that I admire your sense of perseverance and dedication.
Being in this hobby a long time I have found that most often it is better to spend a bit more on a running car in decent shape than to pick up a used up rusted hulk. The rust shown in these pictures is borderline ruin so do yourself a favor before you spend more time and money restoring and remove the rug in the trunk. Look in the sides for rust. If those areas are badly rusted away ; to save the car will probably cost far more than the cost of buying a solid car.
Don't mean to discourage your fun project but there are limits to what can or can't be done while being cost effective.




haha Thanks LaGrua! You're 100% right. The trunk area is rust free, but it's the side rails that I can't see well, so I need to remove the back fenders and bumper to get a better look. Been a bit sidetracked with my wife's Aztek at the moment, but I'll post pictures!

Main reason that I'm getting everything "working" is mainly to hone my troubleshooting skills, and to know what is working so if I have to part it out, I can show proof of everything working so that I know I'm not selling a defective item. Plus it's a good way to learn how to work on this car so if I get another one, I know how to do it, and what to look for.

That being said, the rust is only on that one side (I'm guessing it still has something to do with the battery leaking). so if it's not bad, I've done some light body work and I know a friend who is a pro welder so I might try to save her!
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wstefan20
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Report this Post06-14-2018 07:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

wstefan20

31 posts
Member since Mar 2018
 
quote
Originally posted by AWautoworks:

Come visit us at the kansas city River market. Its the 15th annual Fiero Fun Fest. June 24th from 10-2 at the downtown river market.
We should have quite a good showing this year.
you dont have to bring your car but come chat with us and see what everyone in the club has done


That sounds awesome! I'm going to try my best to make it there! Going in my calendar right now!
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wstefan20
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Report this Post06-14-2018 07:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wstefan20Send a Private Message to wstefan20Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

wstefan20

31 posts
Member since Mar 2018
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

The metal piece? I'd be tempted to just remove the hose, clean the area of the metal fitting that the hose fits onto... and if the hose isn't rotted or cracked, clean it up as well and then perhaps double-clamp it.



Good thought! I'll give that a try first. I think that I'll have to toss that hose as it looks pretty old (mind you it's been sitting for 13 years...), but I'm going to take a look at the rust next to see if it's worth saving. Crossing my fingers!
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