I am looking for the actual weight of 2 different 13" wheels to include this information in our NIFE Enthusiast guide. I need the actual weight in lbs/oz of:
13" Steel Rally Wheel 13" Steel Rally wheel with trim ring 13" Turbo finned Aluminnuim wheel
Several styles of weights for different rims and every few sells a few weights for DIY use. Only sell a box of 25 of same size and type or kits with several size of same type. Plus some states may now or soon will make lead weights illegal. Why you see Zinc and Steel weights...
Worse, Aluminum/alloy rims often needs two types for both sides. IOW One fits back of wheels but often different or none fits the outside like many aftermarket rims have no way to use clip weights for outside. My current rim gets clip weight for inner edge and have to use tape weights on inside as far outside as possible.
If you have to buy 3 kits to fit two types of rims... at above prices kits will cost ~$200 minimum. HF and some others only sell tape weights for DIY use w/ simple bubble balancers. If careful bubble balancers work ok but not as good as computer dynamic balancers.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Could be... I've installed many tires and "getting wheel weights" to me are 1 of 2 types... Balance weight for cars Heavy Weights bolted to wheels on Farm Tractor and other similar. I've seen big wheel weight sets pushing the weight of most cars. Plus many have "loaded" tires meaning full of Calcium Water and some air to keep pressure. Example:
I am looking for the actual weight of 2 different 13" wheels to include this information in our NIFE Enthusiast guide. I need the actual weight in lbs/oz of:
13" Steel Rally Wheel 13" Steel Rally wheel with trim ring 13" Turbo finned Aluminnuim wheel
Yes, pretty sure hes looking for someone to actually weigh the wheels. Dont make much difference for a street car, but lighter ones improve performance when little bits count.
I only use stick on weights. In most cases they can be hidden and dont cause wheel corrosion like hammer on weights cutting thru the clearcoat. A REALLY good wheel balance technician can balance a wheel by moving the tire on the rim. Takes a long time of trial and error but mine did it on my Ferrari kit that I didnt want to wreck the rims on. They stayed in perfect balance for the whole time I owned the car too (like 8 years).
Several styles of weights for different rims and every few sells a few weights for DIY use. Only sell a box of 25 of same size and type or kits with several size of same type. Plus some states may now or soon will make lead weights illegal. Why you see Zinc and Steel weights...
Worse, Aluminum/alloy rims often needs two types for both sides. IOW One fits back of wheels but often different or none fits the outside like many aftermarket rims have no way to use clip weights for outside. My current rim gets clip weight for inner edge and have to use tape weights on inside as far outside as possible.
If you have to buy 3 kits to fit two types of rims... at above prices kits will cost ~$200 minimum. HF and some others only sell tape weights for DIY use w/ simple bubble balancers. If careful bubble balancers work ok but not as good as computer dynamic balancers.
That was a lot of typing to answer the question incorrectly He said nothing about balancing weights.......
The very first line in this thread, first post, says "I am looking for the actual weight of 2 different 13" wheels to include this information in our NIFE Enthusiast guide."
Yes, pretty sure hes looking for someone to actually weigh the wheels. Dont make much difference for a street car, but lighter ones improve performance when little bits count.
I only use stick on weights. In most cases they can be hidden and dont cause wheel corrosion like hammer on weights cutting thru the clearcoat. A REALLY good wheel balance technician can balance a wheel by moving the tire on the rim. Takes a long time of trial and error but mine did it on my Ferrari kit that I didnt want to wreck the rims on. They stayed in perfect balance for the whole time I owned the car too (like 8 years).
I once had a document that showed how to balance a tire with little or no weight. About all I can recall is you mount the tire so that the letter "O" in DOT ) which is stamped on the tire) is located at the valve stem location. Some mechanics told me I was full of "the usual stuff" until I showed them the proof. I'll see if I can dig that up again.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
Well, even though the balancing issue has come up in a thread that is actually about the weight of the wheels, I'll go along.
What my local mechanic has is a system called "Road Force" balancing.
As part of the balancing process the system matches the low point of the wheel with the high point of the tire to help remove any out of round vibrations that sometimes get mistaken for an unbalanced wheel.
I owned an '89 Mustang that had a vibration issue that just would not go away until I had this done. Since then I've done it on all my rides. It's a bit more expensive but worth it if, like me, you hate steering wheel vibrations.
Of course there is a myriad of possibilities related to vibrations, I'm just passing this on for general information.
If I remember right, theres a red or yellow paint dot on the tire. That is supposed to be mounted opposite the stem for a start. Then my guy moves the tire around the rim until its balanced (or best it can). Two best results mount on front, other two on rear. I think mine ended up with a very small weight on one or two tires. Ive even had tires shaved on rims to correct out of round.
If I remember right, theres a red or yellow paint dot on the tire. That is supposed to be mounted opposite the stem for a start.
I've pointed that dot out to a couple of different tire mounting "pros"... and they had no idea what the dots were for. These young guys today rely 100% on the balancing machine. If they haven't positioned the tire on the wheel correctly, they don't care if a whole lot of extra weight is then required. Sad.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-08-2018).]
Paulv, sorry for the thread hijack, but balancing is an interesting subject. Plus, it's a thread bump. I don't have either of these wheels available for weighing.
The red dot indicates the high spot of the tire. This should be matched to the low spot of the wheel, to give the least out-of-round. The low spot on the wheel can be found with a dial indicator.
Yellow is for balance; balance can be easily corrected with weights, while out-of-round cannot be corrected as easily. So I think that the red dot should take priority.
I do not presently have a mounting/dismounting machine; only a balancer. So far, I have had good results balancing wheels that have had their tires installed whichever way by a shop (no specific instructions given).
I too use stick-on weights, because I don't like scrapping the paint job of my wheels.
I've been thinking of adding a grinding wheel attachment to my balancer to convert it to a tire lathe.
[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 02-07-2018).]
I've pointed that dot out to a couple of different tire mounting "pros"... and they had no idea what the dots were for. These young guys today rely 100% on the balancing machine. If they haven't positioned the tire on the wheel correctly, they don't care if a whole lot of extra weight is then required. Sad.
Yet another example of new being worse than old. Same with paint...younger guys that have only ever used basecoat/clearcoat dont know anything about anything else.
On my tire balance, my guy finishes up by jacking up the car and using a motor, spins the wheels on the car with his fingers or a glass of water on the hood or trunk. Hes not satisfied till there is no vibration. You pay for it though...last I had done several years ago it was $30 per wheel. The other great plus is it balances everything...tire, wheel, hub and brakes.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 02-08-2018).]
NIFE enthusiasts guide is a wealth of accurate data / info and knowledge put together by people who care, and do the research, every once in a while they come out with an updated version. If you havent seen one I recommend it.