I am surprised how happy I am having a working gas gauge. I took my gas tank out today to check the rust and verify the line on the pump wasn't deteriorating. What designer put hose clamps on the tank and modern screw on line connections on the engine. The worst connections on the car are 2" in front of the catalytic converter. I now know why I keep seeing fire extinguishers in posts on the forum! I swear I saw better fuel line connections on my 58 Chevy Apache.
I had a vent line cracked in half. Both pressure and return lines were swollen, and the previous owner had spliced in the fuel pump twisting the wires together and wrapping in electrical tape.
I got it all back together, tested the fuel pressure, and remembered, oh, yeah, I love driving this car. Is there something wrong with me or is there some sort of virus I've caught. I am enjoying working on this car way too much.
gas gauge lying can be problems w/ the sender but often is a Ground problem(s) as well. Wires to the tank can have issues but ground for FP and Gauge are Inside the cabin. Poor Power/Ground to FP can kill the pump. See my Cave, Electric Motors
Their G201 and G202, See my Cave, Wire Service I clean/fix them and metal they screws to bright steel then used brake grease to keep them happy for many years. (Do same for G101 G102 and others.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Thanks Ogre, I will check those connections. In the meantime, I can now lower and replace a tank in 1 1/2 hours. I had to lower the tank because the bottom of the car was wet with gas. Seems the PO had used too large of a tank seal o ring and I missed it. I got a new one the right size and put it back together and no mist around the tank.
Can't wait to get mine new Fiero Store Fuel Level sensor (sender?) in sometime soon. I've had a janky fuel gauge for 5 years now.
I bought TFS Fuel sending unit and had it professionally installed and my fuel gauge works worse than it did before. Now, not only does it not read correctly but the sender's float arm must get hung up on the baffle in the tank...preventing me from being able to use more than 7 gallons of gas before stalling out.
-Van
[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-08-2018).]
...the sender's float arm must get hung up on the baffle in the tank...preventing me from being able to use more than 7 gallons of gas before stalling out.
Ummm.... what's the float arm for the sender got to do with the actual fuel inlet?
I suspect the short piece of submersible fuel line in the tank is not connected properly.
Can you clarify which of the lines you are referring to in the pic you posted.
That short black piece is (supposed to be) submersible fuel line. It can become detached (as shown in my earlier image), or if the wrong type of "hose" is used, it rots. Originally there was something called a "pulsator" installed there, but generally speaking, it gets replaced by a short length of submersible fuel line when the fuel pump gets updated.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-08-2018).]
That short black piece is (supposed to be) submersible fuel line. It can become detached (as shown in my image) or if the wrong type of "hose" is used, it rots. Originally there was something called a "pulsator" installed there, but generally speaking, it gets replaced by submersible fuel line when the fuel pump gets updated.
That's what I thought you were referring to. If that is in fact the case (and it sure sounds possible) would the result be that once the fuel level went below a certain point, the pump would be starved for fuel?
...would the result be that once the fuel level went below a certain point, the pump would be starved for fuel?
Well, the pump itself shouldn't be starved, as it's (supposed to be) at the bottom of the tank. The problem is that the pump could simply be recirculating the gas within the tank.
I don't know for sure... but it might be possible if there's a slight leak at that location that it doesn't leak as bad when it's submerged. Perhaps just the pressure/weight of the gas in the tank pushing against the outside of this hose would be sufficient to allow enough fuel to be pumped towards the engine. And when the gas level drops below that point, maybe this no longer can take place. I dunno, I'm just guessing here.
quote
Originally posted by VanGTP5000:
...preventing me from being able to use more than 7 gallons of gas before stalling out.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-08-2018).]
Well, I gotta say...it sounds reasonable to me! Thank you for the explanation, I will be curious to see what's going on in there when I can have the tank dropped.
Originally posted by Patrick: My experience is that the only way these cars can be repaired correctly.... is to do it ourselves.
Yes, 100000% agree! There have been a few times I didn't have time, space or what not and opted to pay a "pro". Without fail, their work was wrong, broke something else, or failed again in short order. I've ended up having to redo everything I paid someone to do.
Removing the fuel tank isn't as hard as it sounds. If you have a working fuel pump, you can just remove a fuel line and pump out the fuel. Just jumper from the G terminal in the ALDL terminal to the positive on the cigar lighter. Wait and make sure you unplug as soon as the pump stops moving fuel to keep it from overheating. You just have to put the car on jackstands or ramps. remove the two straps and the cross brace. 6 bolts 13mm \ socket. Just make sure you wear eye protection when removing the 3 hose connections. Pressure , return, vent at the rear of the tank. The fuel fill and vent lines can be sticky. Those can be pulled off as you lower the tank to give you leverage. Also pick up some pet "pee" pads and keep them under the tank to catch drips. Mine had a huge hole in the vent line and I pulled it because I had problems with stumbling at seemingly random times.
Took me 1hour the second time. Tank had mist around it because the sender gasket wasn't seated properly.
[This message has been edited by JMTUT (edited 02-10-2018).]
Removing the fuel tank isn't as hard as it sounds...You just have to put the car on jackstands or ramps. remove the two straps and the cross brace. 6 bolts 13mm \ socket.
I'll mention one more thing that IMO makes the job a lot easier... temporarily remove the heat shield located at the rear of the tank. This will give much greater access to the fuel lines leading to it.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-10-2018).]
That short black piece is (supposed to be) submersible fuel line. It can become detached (as shown in my earlier image), or if the wrong type of "hose" is used, it rots. Originally there was something called a "pulsator" installed there, but generally speaking, it gets replaced by a short length of submersible fuel line when the fuel pump gets updated.
Patrick,
Is this thread what you meant when you said wrong type of hose?
Yes. If you replace the hose there for any reason then use J30R10 Can get away w/ "cheap" hose outside of tank because outside surface don't get soak in gas/gasohol a the time.
