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Taking off Exhaust Manifold, will it warp? by Blitz54
Started on: 08-14-2017 12:23 AM
Replies: 8 (488 views)
Last post by: E.Furgal on 08-14-2017 02:12 PM
Blitz54
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Report this Post08-14-2017 12:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Blitz54Send a Private Message to Blitz54Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My dad tells me he doesn't like to take off exhaust manifolds, cause on lots of older cars if it got red hot at some point the metal could have shrunken, and that as soon as you unbolt it the manifold will warp to where it wants. Making it hard/impossible to put back on.

Is this a true thing? Or is he just trying to avoid helping me with more work :P
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Report this Post08-14-2017 02:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

If they need to come off, they need to come off. If nothing else, port those suckers.

Me thinks your dad doesn't want to miss any games on the tube.
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fierosound
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Report this Post08-14-2017 08:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The manifolds will not warp from being removed.

Yeah - the manifolds DO get extremely hot at times when engine is running.
But they cool off bolted to the heads and will hold their shape.

Now if the manifold has cracked and needs welding, then it could warp from the heat of welding.
But then again, if you bolt it to a spare head first, it will hold its shape while being repaired.

Not a fun job - and your dad likely knows it...
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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 08-14-2017).]

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2.5
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Report this Post08-14-2017 09:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

The manifolds will not warp from being removed.

Yeah - the manifolds DO get extremely hot at times when engine is running.
But they cool off bolted to the heads and will hold their shape.

Now if the manifold has cracked and needs welding, then it could warp from the heat of welding.
But then again, if you bolt it to a spare head first, it will hold its shape while being repaired.

Not a fun job - and your dad likely knows it... ;-)
//www.fiero.nl/forum/A...100421-2-098859.html


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I agree.
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2.5
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Report this Post08-14-2017 09:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

2.5

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[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 08-14-2017).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post08-14-2017 10:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sounds to me like your dad has a football game to watch.

That said, one thing to watch out for is broken exhaust manifold bolts. You didn't specify if your Fiero has the 4-cyl or V6, but on the V6 this is a common problem. The bolts "rust weld" themselves into the cylinder heads, then the heads twist off when you try to remove the bolts. I would suggest soaking the manifold bolts with PB Blaster or Kroil for 24-48 hours before removing them.

Best of luck!
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Blitz54
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Report this Post08-14-2017 01:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blitz54Send a Private Message to Blitz54Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Sounds to me like your dad has a football game to watch.

That said, one thing to watch out for is broken exhaust manifold bolts. You didn't specify if your Fiero has the 4-cyl or V6, but on the V6 this is a common problem. The bolts "rust weld" themselves into the cylinder heads, then the heads twist off when you try to remove the bolts. I would suggest soaking the manifold bolts with PB Blaster or Kroil for 24-48 hours before removing them.

Best of luck!


Sorry, I do have the v6. That's "good" to know that there's a common problem with taking off the bolts. We haven't found the exact leak yet, we weren't sure if we'd do it ourselves or just get someone else to do it. All I know is there's a leak somewhere and it makes a whistley/ringing noise. When you turn of the engine you hear a second of ringing coming from wonder somewhere. And when i ran some seafoam the smoke didn't come from the exhaust tips. It came from somewhere under the hood.

So another question, what's the best way to find where the leak exactly is? I can try seafoam again but it didn't seem to wanna smoke much for me to find the location.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post08-14-2017 02:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
In that case, you probably have a cracked manifold. The firewall-side manifold is notorious for cracking, because rainwater can fall on it when it's hot. The cracks can be difficult to see, because the heat shields block your view. But you can use a small piece of pipe like a stethoscope. Put one end to your ear, and move the other end around the manifold until you hear the puffing noises coming through the pipe.

Best of luck!
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E.Furgal
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Report this Post08-14-2017 02:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for E.FurgalSend a Private Message to E.FurgalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not sure how old your dad is.. but on older heavy duty trucks, the manifold could warp a tiny bit, and you'd have it milled, but these didn't use exhaust manifold gaskets of any type..

Your dad might also know that there is a good chance the bolts/studs will snap/break and doesn't want to open that can of worms..

or the wanting to relax and watch the game, you pick..

I'd look at what the bolts/studs look like rust wise before I went gung hoe into this.. if you've never removed a manifold and worked out rusty hardware before it might be best to go slow, and read up on tricks for this before starting into this project.
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