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Painting the Metal Rear Deck Vents by USMUCL
Started on: 05-02-2017 03:33 PM
Replies: 40 (1259 views)
Last post by: pmbrunelle on 04-03-2018 08:30 PM
USMUCL
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Report this Post05-02-2017 03:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Did you guys find that "high heat" paint was necessary, or would a regular temperature primer/paint (higher quality like Krylon) be okay?

It didn't even dawn on me that "high heat" paint might be necessary till I happen to lay my hand on one of the vents today after idling for 20 minutes. They get fairly toasty.

Asking cause I'd rather get it right the first time . . . .
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Report this Post05-02-2017 04:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for seajaiSend a Private Message to seajaiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Regular paint should be fine.
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vette7584
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Report this Post05-02-2017 04:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vette7584Click Here to Email vette7584Send a Private Message to vette7584Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have used Marhyde, I believe that's how you spell it, anyways, looks great and stays on good, actually has a picture of a fiero on the can. it works well for any trim that is painted black on our cars
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Report this Post05-02-2017 05:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When refinishing aluminum, like intakes and valve covers, this is my 8 Step process. Very resiliant.

1. Strip the old finish.
2. Degrease well and rinse thoroughly.
3. Wash with white vinegar, rinse and dry thoroughly.
4. Spray with Zinc Phosphate primer (used on aircraft) and sun dry for 1 day. Will still be a little soft.
5. Spray with high temp engine paint and sun dry for 1 day.
6. Send the spouse shopping.
7. Preheat oven to 250 and bake on center rack for 30 minutes.
8. Deny the house smells strange.
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USMUCL
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Report this Post05-02-2017 06:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you, fellas.

Charles, paint type/method aside, do you feel they get hot enough to need the "high heat" stuff?
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JohnWPB
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Report this Post05-02-2017 06:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
High Heat paint should not be necessary. You mentioned they were "toasty" after idling..... Check how hot regular dark car paint gets, say on a hood, when it's left in the full sun. Talking about a metal car here, with standard factory paint.
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Report this Post05-02-2017 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

When refinishing aluminum...

Spray with Zinc Phosphate primer


Yeah, I originally tried to re-paint my vents without using a primer. That didn't work out so well.
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USMUCL
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Report this Post05-02-2017 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks, guys.
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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post05-02-2017 07:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think that doing it right would consist of using urethane paint.

That said, I rattle-canned my grilles with cheap spray-bomb clear, and nothing happened during the six months or so the grilles were in daily driver service.

However, I first sandblasted the grilles, so the clear had a good tooth to bite on; it gave a unique look.
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Report this Post05-02-2017 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
John, I've painted others by just cleaning and spraying with regular exterior enamel. Patrick and I graduaded from the same 'done that' class. I don't think it was the heat that made them fade as much as from the sun. The high temp and baking hardens the paint against the elements of nature. Originally, I think they were powder coated. Grills are no easy task to clean and repaint.
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Report this Post05-02-2017 09:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I did this with a quart of black lacquer Rustoleum Gloss Black paint from the Home Depot. I mixed a tiny bit of lacquer thinner into it so it would spray easier through my paint gun. I laid it on pretty heavy. I did not use a top coat of clear. This is the way it dried. I was quite happy with just how glossy it is!

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 05-02-2017).]

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Report this Post05-03-2017 12:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Patrick and I graduated from the same 'done that' class.


When I tried to spray the black satin paint I used on the bare aluminum, the paint just bubbled up. I had to use primer. Should've "done that" the first time!

The paint on the whole car is terrible (so I wasn't trying to do a perfecto job), but I was happy enough with the way the vents eventually turned out.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-03-2017).]

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Report this Post05-03-2017 03:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

When refinishing aluminum, like intakes and valve covers, this is my 8 Step process. Very resiliant.

1. Strip the old finish.
2. Degrease well and rinse thoroughly.
3. Wash with white vinegar, rinse and dry thoroughly.
4. Spray with Zinc Phosphate primer (used on aircraft) and sun dry for 1 day. Will still be a little soft.
5. Spray with high temp engine paint and sun dry for 1 day.
6. Send the spouse shopping.
7. Preheat oven to 250 and bake on center rack for 30 minutes.
8. Deny the house smells strange.


I have read some funny things, but this did make me chuckle to myself.
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Report this Post05-03-2017 07:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was just going to get mine powdercoated.
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Report this Post05-03-2017 08:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
SEM black satin trim paint works well. Has the stock look and blends well with the rest of the cars trim. Done with Dow pad (fine) prep and mineral spirits wash.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 05-03-2017).]

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Report this Post05-03-2017 08:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No high heat paint, or engine paint required.
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Report this Post05-03-2017 10:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Zinc Chromate primer is recommended. I just paint them with Krylon or Rustoleum Satin Black spray can.
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Report this Post05-03-2017 11:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Kevin87FieroGT:

SEM black satin trim paint works well. Has the stock look and blends well with the rest of the cars trim. Done with Dow pad (fine) prep and mineral spirits wash.



I think the SEM paint is also self-priming (no separate primer coat needed)

------------------
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3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

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USMUCL
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Report this Post05-03-2017 12:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The original color from the factory for these vents was SATIN black, right? As opposed to gloss black . . .
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Report this Post05-03-2017 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

Zinc Chromate primer is recommended. I just paint them with Krylon or Rustoleum Satin Black spray can.


I never tried the chromate. I use Seymour zinc phosphate green primer for bare metal and wood. Personally I would powdercoat grills. Let someone else do the hard work of stripping the nooks and crannies. I don't have the patience.
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Report this Post05-03-2017 02:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by USMUCL:

The original color from the factory for these vents was SATIN black, right? As opposed to gloss black . . .


Yes. Pretty well matches the trim on the rest of the car. Neither my '87 GT or '86 SE had gloss black on the vents, satin for both. Both cars stock.

Not sure if SEM Trim Paint is self priming our not. In my case I still had some factory paint as the base for the SEM paint.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 05-03-2017).]

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Report this Post05-03-2017 02:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:


I never tried the chromate. I use Seymour zinc phosphate green primer for bare metal and wood. Personally I would powdercoat grills. Let someone else do the hard work of stripping the nooks and crannies. I don't have the patience.


Its more or less the same thing. Used for priming aircraft parts, can be green or yellow. On airplane surfaces I also anodize them after stripping and primering. I dont see that being necessary on car parts. Not much work to stripper them. Blasting makes a better surface to stick to. I paint chrome and glass after sandblasting and never had any peel.

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Report this Post05-06-2017 09:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Report this Post05-06-2017 10:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by USMUCL:
It didn't even dawn on me that "high heat" paint might be necessary till I happen to lay my hand on one of the vents today after idling for 20 minutes. They get fairly toasty.


About a decade ago I took a temp gun to the engine vent on my SBC Fiero after a drive on a 80+ degree day. The passenger vent was about 170 degrees. Hot enough to burn, but not hot enough to require high temp paint.

I am getting ready to paint my vents in a few weeks and will be using the SEM 39673 Black Self Etching Primer and SEM 39143 trim paint for the top coat.
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USMUCL
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Report this Post05-06-2017 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Great info!
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Report this Post05-08-2017 11:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for unboundmoClick Here to Email unboundmoSend a Private Message to unboundmoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I did high heat for underside and regular rustoleum gloss black for the top.. Reg sprays can withstand 220 degrees-most paints... So I felt for the underside to go with a little better higher tolerance to heat
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Report this Post05-10-2017 01:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Amazon has the Trim black in Satin for a pretty good deal.

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-...words=sem+trim+black

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quote
Originally posted by TXGOOD:

I was just going to get mine powdercoated.


That is what I did (and the mirror housings).
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Report this Post05-13-2017 08:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for migsClick Here to Email migsSend a Private Message to migsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the inspiration here guys I've been meaning to work on these and since i have a home powder coating and blasting setup its just time. Got the 1 side completely redone in about 3 hrs which included cooling off time while i went out to buy rivets. The OEM finish on the top part is definately powdercoat and the under tray I think is possibly just a spray paint as it comes off much easier. Did both on mine in semi gloss black not sure what the new OEM part would have been after looking at the finished product i wonder if the undertray was more of a flat finish to make it less visible.


Before

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Report this Post03-23-2018 12:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Troy EckhardtSend a Private Message to Troy EckhardtEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have you all found that the rivets can just be drilled out to separate the two pieces? Afterward, can they be screwed back together, or must they be riveted?

Thanks,

Troy
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Report this Post03-23-2018 06:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Troy Eckhardt:

Have you all found that the rivets can just be drilled out to separate the two pieces?


It was easy enough to drill the top part of the rivet off (which allowed for separation of the two panels), but I found it next to impossible to drill out the rest of the rivet without accidentally drilling into the body of the aluminum. I ended up just using tiny screws to hold the panels together again afterwards.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-24-2018).]

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Report this Post03-23-2018 11:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cliffwClick Here to Email cliffwSend a Private Message to cliffwEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
... this is my 8 Step process.

1. Strip the old finish.
2. Degrease well and rinse thoroughly.
3. Wash with white vinegar, rinse and dry thoroughly.
4. Spray with Zinc Phosphate primer (used on aircraft) and sun dry for 1 day. Will still be a little soft.
5. Spray with high temp engine paint and sun dry for 1 day.
6. Send the spouse shopping.
7. Preheat oven to 250 and bake on center rack for 30 minutes.
[/b]8. Deny the house smells strange.[/b]



Heh heh.
Send the wife shopping ? Are you crazy ? I will just wait for her to go shopping again.

I will blame the house smell on my dog.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:



Those did turn out very nice Patrick. I had never thought of two toned. Do you have a further away picture, perhaps of both ?

What the heck is laying on top of that vent ?

[This message has been edited by cliffw (edited 03-23-2018).]

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Report this Post03-24-2018 12:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cliffw:

What the heck is laying on top of that vent ?


It's one end of the spoiler from a '92 Chevy Lumina which now resides on my '88 Formula. This picture isn't the best, but does show both grills.




And this is the same spoiler/rear decklid combination when I originally had it installed on my '84.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Having the wing is a matter of personal taste. I don't like it. I've removed the decklid (with wing) from my '88 Formula and swapped onto it the decklid I had on another notchie on which I had custom fit a spoiler from a '92 Chevy Lumina. I like it a lot better.

This is the decklid (with spoiler) that I've now got on my Formula...



[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-24-2018).]

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Report this Post03-24-2018 05:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for migsClick Here to Email migsSend a Private Message to migsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Troy Eckhardt:

Have you all found that the rivets can just be drilled out to separate the two pieces? Afterward, can they be screwed back together, or must they be riveted?

Thanks,

Troy


I was able to drill out both parts, the one set in the body just requires small bit and patience, then you can just rivet it back together for the correct look... Can believe anyone wants to go through all the prep work on these ( I think i spent 3-4 hours on mine?) and just spray bomb them after all that. Do the prep work and then find a local powdercoat place, or send me yours all ready to go and I'll do it!
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Report this Post03-24-2018 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Thunderstruck GTSend a Private Message to Thunderstruck GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by migs:

Thanks for the inspiration here guys I've been meaning to work on these and since i have a home powder coating and blasting setup its just time. Got the 1 side completely redone in about 3 hrs which included cooling off time while i went out to buy rivets. The OEM finish on the top part is definately powdercoat and the under tray I think is possibly just a spray paint as it comes off much easier. Did both on mine in semi gloss black not sure what the new OEM part would have been after looking at the finished product i wonder if the undertray was more of a flat finish to make it less visible.


Before



The factory finish is definitely not powder coat, it is a painted surface. That is why it wears off and gets weather beat.

I must say that with the exception of the rivets not being black, your finished pieces look NOS.

Where's that "LIKE" button.

[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 03-24-2018).]

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Report this Post03-24-2018 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cliffwClick Here to Email cliffwSend a Private Message to cliffwEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
It's one end of the spoiler from a '92 Chevy Lumina which now resides my '88 Formula.


Ah, it looks weird from that top angle but does look good from the side profile

Hmm, I wonder what it would look like on wingstands.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
Having the wing is a matter of personal taste. I don't like it. I've removed the decklid (with wing) from my '88 Formula and swapped onto it the decklid I had on another notchie on which I had custom fit a spoiler from a '92 Chevy Lumina. I like it a lot better.


Smart move. Even smarter would be if you saved the original deck lid. Just in case you sell. As you say, personal preference.

Thanks.
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Report this Post03-24-2018 10:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for spiritClick Here to Email spiritSend a Private Message to spiritEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I took my underside leaf-catchers off and threw them away. But my car doesn't set outside.
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Report this Post03-24-2018 01:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cliffw:

Smart move. Even smarter would be if you saved the original deck lid.


I save everything.
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Report this Post03-24-2018 10:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for qwikgtaClick Here to Email qwikgtaSend a Private Message to qwikgtaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Years ago I got some advice from a professional painter, he said "primer sticks to metal, and paint sticks to primer". seems pretty basic but i've always lived by these words, and for the most part, my painted parts seem to last. Almost every time i skipped the primer, i got a crappy paint job. Also, good advice w/ the aircraft primer, most don't realize the vents are aluminum.
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Report this Post04-03-2018 05:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Generally thats true...but like everything...there are exceptions. I was a body shop owner/operator for 45 years. Aluminum should have chromate primer as said. I painted planes in Okla City and a few here. Krylon BBQ black is a semi gloss I use a lot and it can be used without primer just fine. I did a lot of parts on my kit cars over the years. Primer is also good in that you can fill slight imperfections with it before painting. If you use primer, remember it needs to be sanded or scuffed before painting.
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