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Thinking of purchasing this Formula. Opinions needed. by railshot
Started on: 01-14-2017 09:55 AM
Replies: 14 (335 views)
Last post by: railshot on 01-14-2017 02:22 PM
railshot
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Report this Post01-14-2017 09:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for railshotClick Here to visit railshot's HomePageClick Here to Email railshotSend a Private Message to railshotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have been contacted by several people with regards to my craigslist ad I put out there about a month ago looking for a Formula.

This one "needs" me I think more than any of the others.
What I am looking for is opinions on value.

I have one big issue, and that it is around 400 miles from me, and not local to me in the least.
More than likely will cost me $500 to $1000 to get it here by carrier of some sort, and I cannot see or drive it.

I did have a great conversation with the seller over the phone and it sounds like a good driver, but we all know how that goes sometimes.
He did put a number out there for me to buy it, which I will reveal later if I decide not to......

So, after looking at the pictures and getting a feel for this poor little thing, please post what you would be willing to buy it for as is, where is.

I don't want to lowball the gentleman, and I really do not want to overpay.

Details:
Black

136,000 miles

Automatic, which I want

Needs paint

Has been in two accidents according to CarFax and has a salvage / rebuilt title.
The last accident was back in 2001, and the car has been inspected and driven / licensed since then.

CJB T-top.
It is on the RPO sticker which I did not post due to it having the vin in it and trying to keep this one private for now.
From what I have read, only 44 Black CJB Formula's were made...
yeh, I know I said I do not like T-tops but all of the Formula's people have approached me with are T-tops believe it or not with one exception...they are growing on me and seem to be in my future.

pics.





















Check out this collection of tail lights in the trunk! LOL
It has been hit in the rear 2 times in it's life, so this kinda makes sense.

















That paint should "buff right out" shouldn't it?
hehehe

tshark, Raydar, handymanpat, you out there? LOL

------------------
There's one in every crowd, and usually it's me.

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edfiero
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Report this Post01-14-2017 10:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I wouldn't pay to have it shipped but otherwise it looks good assuming the price is right
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GTGeff
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Report this Post01-14-2017 10:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GTGeffSend a Private Message to GTGeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Rail,

As a current owner of two Formulas: 1@ 25,000 miles (bought @ 14,000 miles) in 2010, DD 1@160,000 miles (bought @ 78,000) in 2003.

For me -'s: mileage, paint, salvage title, 2x accidents, re-placing t-top seals

+s: Formula, CJB t-top

concerns: What cost, if any, involved to make a dependable driver? Everything working? Routine maintenance due, tire conditions, etc. Can I get in and drive (turnkey or project car)? I don't have the time or equipment so I would rather pay more and get worry free instant gradification.

I drove over 1500 RT miles to get my 88 GT and hauled it back. The Stinger over 400 (1-way) miles but the car was well known.

Good luck.
Jeff

OOPs! for got to add...maybe $2000 to $2500 max, $1000 if need tires, tune-up, or other work.

[This message has been edited by GTGeff (edited 01-14-2017).]

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railshot
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Report this Post01-14-2017 10:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for railshotClick Here to visit railshot's HomePageClick Here to Email railshotSend a Private Message to railshotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good stuff guys, thanks.

This is going to be an ongoing project type purchase that I hope to be able to drive when I feel like it, and play with when I don't.
My '88 GT T-top is the same.... just toys to play with and (finally) enjoy.

I too cannot do a lot of the repairs myself anymore, but my GT taught me a lesson or two in patience and my abilities last summer, so my expectations have been adjusted..
Only going to do what I can, when I can.

Your pricing is right in line I think, and with only 299 Formula CJB T-tops ever being made, it really makes me want to make sure it goes somewhere to get what it deserves.

Anyone else?

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Raydar
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Report this Post01-14-2017 11:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
$2500... tops.
My honest opinion, is that you should wait for exactly what you want. The high miles and the rebuilt title would be a big minus for me.
I know you say that you are leaning towards "liking" T-tops, but are you being honest with yourself?
Every time I think about buying a T-top car, I start thinking about why I sold my last (and only) one. Traded "heads up" for a sunroof car.
What about rust in the trunk? Be careful.
And recognize that, with those miles, most of the suspension is going to need to be rebuilt, if it hasn't already. My coupe had 150K on it when I got it. Everything was pretty much shot. Tammy followed me home from the transporter, and said it "looked like it was wagging its tail".
One of the ball joints actually rattled after I removed it.

Just call me "buzzkill".

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 01-14-2017).]

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railshot
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Report this Post01-14-2017 11:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for railshotClick Here to visit railshot's HomePageClick Here to Email railshotSend a Private Message to railshotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

$2500... tops.
My honest opinion, is that you should wait for exactly what you want. The high miles and the rebuilt title would be a big minus for me.
I know you say that you are leaning towards "liking" T-tops, but are you being honest with yourself?
Every time I think about buying a T-top car, I start thinking about why I sold my last (and only) one. Traded "heads up" for a sunroof car.
What about rust in the trunk? Be careful.
And recognize that, with those miles, most of the suspension is going to need to be rebuilt, if it hasn't already. My coupe had 150K on it when I got it. Everything was pretty much shot. One of the ball joints actually rattled after I removed it.

Just call me "buzzkill".



LOL, thanks "buzzkill"
Always appreciate your input.
PM sent right after posting this.
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darbysan
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Report this Post01-14-2017 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for darbysanClick Here to Email darbysanSend a Private Message to darbysanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You might also want to check your title laws in your state. Here in NV, a salvage title can only be sold to a dealer or a junk yard, limiting any possible resale. I know that varies state to state.
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railshot
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Report this Post01-14-2017 11:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for railshotClick Here to visit railshot's HomePageClick Here to Email railshotSend a Private Message to railshotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by darbysan:

You might also want to check your title laws in your state. Here in NV, a salvage title can only be sold to a dealer or a junk yard, limiting any possible resale. I know that varies state to state.


Interesting, I never thought of that part of it..... I am on it now, and thanks a ton for bringing this up!
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Report this Post01-14-2017 11:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Drive a truck to inspect it in person, then rent a trailer or tow dolly to bring it back if you buy it. I would never buy a Fiero from the rust belt sight unseen unless is was under 500. Too many issues with rust surprises. Any sunroof or t-top car you really need to sit in and "smell" for issues too.

With the 2 wrecks and rebuilt status, I would want detailed pictures of the damaged/repaired sections... was it done right?, or done as cheaply as possible to flip. Did the impacts hurt the t-top section (it is only glued and riveted in place). They could have left all the mangled sheet metal and only replaced the panels with rigged mounting points to make it "look good".
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railshot
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Report this Post01-14-2017 11:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for railshotClick Here to visit railshot's HomePageClick Here to Email railshotSend a Private Message to railshotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by fieroguru:

Drive a truck to inspect it in person, then rent a trailer or tow dolly to bring it back if you buy it. I would never buy a Fiero from the rust belt sight unseen unless is was under 500. Too many issues with rust surprises. Any sunroof or t-top car you really need to sit in and "smell" for issues too.

With the 2 wrecks and rebuilt status, I would want detailed pictures of the damaged/repaired sections... was it done right?, or done as cheaply as possible to flip. Did the impacts hurt the t-top section (it is only glued and riveted in place). They could have left all the mangled sheet metal and only replaced the panels with rigged mounting points to make it "look good".


All very good points fieroguru, thank you.
And, I did some checking about getting the title transferred.
If I read this correctly, I will need to pay to have another inspection done, or not be able to title it at all.

"Trans 149.10  Application for certificate of title or registration for a repaired, junk or salvage vehicle from another jurisdiction.

(1) The Wisconsin certificate of title issued for a vehicle previously titled in another jurisdiction as a repaired salvage vehicle, or a substantially similar term as used in that jurisdiction, shall contain a notation identifying the vehicle as a repaired salvage vehicle or repeat the notation from the other jurisdiction and indicate the jurisdiction where the vehicle was previously titled.

(2) A vehicle titled in another jurisdiction as salvage, or a substantially similar term as used in that jurisdiction, may be titled and registered under the provisions of this chapter. The Wisconsin certificate of title shall contain a notation describing the vehicle as previously titled as salvage or repeat the notation from the other jurisdiction and indicate the jurisdiction issuing that title.

(3) A vehicle previously titled in another jurisdiction as junked, or a substantially similar term as used in that jurisdiction, may not be titled or registered in Wisconsin.

History: Cr. Register, December, 1994, No. 468, eff. 1-1-95."

Now that is a real "buzzkill"!
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Report this Post01-14-2017 12:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It looks like the car is in Ohio, so you have to deal with the Ohio laws. I understand it is not easy to get a car switched out of salvage in Ohio. In Michigan and Illinois, it's easy.

also note the bumperpad rear cover.....if you would want to make it all stock....a little more work is needed.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 01-14-2017).]

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Report this Post01-14-2017 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think any point I could make has been covered above. Personally, I would keep looking. There was a red Formula for $2K in my area, but it sold within the day. Nice car.

BTW, there are people on here far more knowledgeable than myself. The only thing I have going for me is that I've driven hundreds of vehicles for evaluation purposes (a program involving manufacturers and magazines) and I'm picky.
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railshot
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Report this Post01-14-2017 12:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for railshotClick Here to visit railshot's HomePageClick Here to Email railshotSend a Private Message to railshotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

I think any point I could make has been covered above. Personally, I would keep looking. There was a red Formula for $2K in my area, but it sold within the day. Nice car.

BTW, there are people on here far more knowledgeable than myself. The only thing I have going for me is that I've driven hundreds of vehicles for evaluation purposes (a program involving manufacturers and magazines) and I'm picky.


Yup, I am done with this one and just passed it along to someone else I am dealing with in Ohio for another nicer Formula.
He is really into Fiero's, particularly '88's.
The asking price is actually very good and if I felt I could title it here, it would be coming home.

Moving on to an 86k mile hard top auto..... no frills Formula, as they should be.
Hope it finds a happy home!
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Patrick
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Report this Post01-14-2017 01:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by railshot:

He did put a number out there for me to buy it, which I will reveal later if I decide not to......


 
quote
Originally posted by railshot:

Yup, I am done with this one...


Okay, we're all ears.
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railshot
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Report this Post01-14-2017 02:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for railshotClick Here to visit railshot's HomePageClick Here to Email railshotSend a Private Message to railshotEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Okay, we're all ears.


LOL, 2k US the last conversation I had with the owner, very possibly less.
Almost worth it to buy as a parts car, or restoration project, but I need neither at the moment, and storage is not in the picture.

Edit: Added link to the Carfax report I ran.

Here is a link to the Carfax report I ran on it for anyone seriously interested.
https://www.carfax.com/api/...2676805eb157be081b30

[This message has been edited by railshot (edited 01-14-2017).]

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