I'm looking at lowering my Fiero to eliminate some body roll and for the look as well. It's an 88 2.5 5 speed. Everything I have found has been for 84-87s, besides the fiero store springs. I do participate in a little autocross so it has to be functional. Thanks.
IMHO, the best option for lowering springs on an 88 is to cut the existing stock springs. GM reduced the spring rate on the 88, most lowering spring are in the 300# range, way too stiff for an 88. Cut stock springs only increase spring rate slightly, maybe 20%. One coil on each corner has worked well. Addition of the rear anti-roll bar from a GT or Formula will make a significant improvement. Check out fieroguru's lateral link relocation brackerty as well to improve rear camber characteristics.
Exactly! I'm not to sure about 88's since I haven't owned one. But if springs are hard to find, just chop off a coil. I've done it a bunch with many cars. The ride is just stiffer, but works perfect. On my 87 I got some ST springs cheap, so I went that route. ST are the lowest springs you can buy.
I won't bother repeating what I already stated in that thread. I will add though that I removed the front lowering springs and replaced them with the stiffest '84 front springs with two coils removed. I'm very pleased with how they feel at autocross. The rear lowering springs are alright, but I'd now like the back of my Formula to be an inch or so lower. The next change might be to adjustable rear coil-overs.
Cutting the front springs works well on a Fiero to lower it... but because of the shape of the rear springs and how they mount/sit, IMO cutting them down doesn't work as well.
I suspect you've misunderstood what was posted. There is no factory sway bar on the back of an '88 coupe. The suggestion made (and it's a good one) is to install a rear sway bar from an '88 GT or Formula.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-06-2016).]
I suspect you've misunderstood what was posted. There is no factory sway bar on the back of an '88 coupe. The suggestion made (and it's a good one) is to install a rear sway bar from an '88 GT or Formula.
Wups yep, I read the statement as to put a GT one on a Formula. oops. Thanks
Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I will be looking at getting a swaybar. Although cutting springs seems to be the way to go I'm not too into the idea of cut springs. Has anyone had experience with the West Coast Fieros coilovers and front springs kit? A stiff ride doesn't scare me away much.
I just would rather do it the right way the first time.
...which translates to you believing that using springs which have been shortened by having a coil or two cut off is the wrong way to lower a car.
You realize of course that coil springs don't spontaneously appear at a prescribed length. They're CUT to length from much longer lengths of steel before being formed.
I just think you're cheating yourself of possibly creating something that will perform exactly the way you want... for no valid reason.
Partially I don't want to mess anything up either. There's a lot more opportunity for error when cutting the spring versus buying different ones. If I mess up my stock springs i'll have to source a new set.
Partially I don't want to mess anything up either. There's a lot more opportunity for error when cutting the spring versus buying different ones. If I mess up my stock springs i'll have to source a new set.
I won't bother repeating what I already stated in that thread. I will add though that I removed the front lowering springs and replaced them with the stiffest '84 front springs with two coils removed. I'm very pleased with how they feel at autocross. The rear lowering springs are alright, but I'd now like the back of my Formula to be an inch or so lower. The next change might be to adjustable rear coil-overs.
Cutting the front springs works well on a Fiero to lower it... but because of the shape of the rear springs and how they mount/sit, IMO cutting them down doesn't work as well.
I just don't like the idea of cut springs in general
If you use too stiff a lowering spring on an 88 (and for the street, most offering are way too stiff) you end up with a car that handles like a tiddly wink on rough surfaces. Fine for a racetrack, but on the street they can be dangerous. Been there, done that, have the T-shirt.
Cut the springs with a hacksaw or die grinder, e-z p-z, no brainier type thing.....
If you use too stiff a lowering spring on an 88 (and for the street, most offering are way too stiff) you end up with a car that handles like a tiddly wink on rough surfaces. Fine for a racetrack, but on the street they can be dangerous. Been there, done that, have the T-shirt.
Cut the springs with a hacksaw or die grinder, e-z p-z, no brainier type thing.....
Agreed, NEVER USE A TORCH! The heat from a torch cut will destroy the temper in the springs. I cut my 84's fronts one coil and it lowered the front a little over an inch and once I cut the stop tower down the ride is not much stiffer than before.
Depending on how far you want to lower the vehicle, you could use rear coilovers and Rodney Dickman's lowering ball joints (0.5" and 1.0"). I have coilovers and one inch lowering ball joints on an 88 and like the stance very much.
I have experimented with cut springs on several 88s. Removing one coil will lower the front to match the stock rear height.
On my 88, I currently have 86 GT springs in the front, cut by 1.25 coils. In the rear, I have 88 front springs, cut down by ~1 coil. This increases the spring rate on all 4 corners, but not by much.
As long as you use a cutoff wheel to cut the springs (do NOT use a torch) you should have no issues. After I make the cut, I dress the end with a file, then paint to prevent oxidation.
I'm about to rebuild the entire suspension on an 88 that I just bought. Full poly. Monroe Sensatracs. The front springs will be cut by one coil. The rears will likely remain stock. Otherwise, no changes for now.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 04-07-2016).]
On my 88, I currently have 86 GT springs in the front, cut by 1.25 coils. In the rear, I have 88 front springs, cut down by ~1 coil. This increases the spring rate on all 4 corners, but not by much.
Does it increase the spring rate less than cutting one coil off of 88 fronts and leaving them in front? Also does it leave it the same height as just cutting 1 coil off the front of 88 fronts (thus matching the rear)? Thanks
All stock '88 suspension, Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints.
For anyone who's only interested in bringing the '88 front end down (to where it should've been from the factory), that method seems to work out very well.
However, if the whole car is to be lowered and/or it's desired for the suspension to be a little stiffer (for autocross etc), the choices become less clear.
For anyone who's only interested in bringing the '88 front end down (to where it should've been from the factory), that method seems to work out very well.
However, if the whole car is to be lowered and/or it's desired for the suspension to be a little stiffer (for autocross etc), the choices become less clear.
Yup... just giving the example. OP said he doesn't like cutting springs, so here's the example. Sometimes it helps to know the difference individual components make.
Missing where I said I was [/end]ing the thread.
[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-08-2016).]
You responded as if I hadn't read the rest of the thread or somehow thought this was all one would need to lower the car.
Man oh man, I gave your post a thumbs up and also stated... "that method seems to work out very well".
You're correct, you read far too much into what I had posted. You possibly need to remind yourself that the OP (and other newbies) reading this thread probably don't know what you and I might know, and it doesn't hurt to re-consolidate what's being said. Geez...
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-08-2016).]
To the OP's use case, I wouldn't recommend the lowering ball joints on a car that would be autocrossed... it puts more strain in the lower control arm and/or ball joint than what it was probably originally designed to handle. For me it's not really a big deal, but really biting into a corner would make me worry a little bit.
They give the steering knuckle a good additional bit of leverage on the LCA and ball joint itself. Some people have welded them in, I have not and didn't have a problem for the 3 years I drove it before parking it.
Figured I may as well show what the current stance (with 225/50/16 tires) looks like with my Formula.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
I removed the front lowering springs and replaced them with the stiffest '84 front springs with two coils removed. I'm very pleased with how they feel at autocross. The rear lowering springs are alright, but I'd now like the back of my Formula to be an inch or so lower.
And just out of curiosity, I measured the distance from the road to the top of the front fender opening. It was 25.5 inches. The back is 26.5 inches.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-11-2016).]
Here is the front of my 88 with Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints. Does yours measure 27"?
I just went out and measured mine at 26.5"... so pretty close. With as soft as the 88 front springs are, it doesn't take much weight to change the settled ride height.
[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-11-2016).]
I got the fiwro stores suspension kit 2 with the lowering sprungs shocks and swaybars for my 87 328 replica. Got the back on now. Im in the middle of a 3800sc swap and thats how its sitting right this minute. I will say that i like the looks of the new stance
IMHO, the best option for lowering springs on an 88 is to cut the existing stock springs. GM reduced the spring rate on the 88, most lowering spring are in the 300# range, way too stiff for an 88.
My '87 Fiero has an '88 cradle swapped in, with 350 lb/in coilover springs. It doesn't feel too stiff in the back. Actually, it rides smoother than the '87 rear suspension did with Eibach springs. My first impression after swapping in the '88 cradle and suspension was "Hey, the rear end doesn't skitter like a go-kart anymore!"
That said, cutting the springs is a viable alternative, if done properly. Don't cut them with a torch, and don't heat the end with a torch to bend it. That will ruin the temper of the steel. Instead, cut them with an angle grinder or something similar, and drape a wet rag on the spring to help keep it from getting too hot. Just don't snag the wet rag with your angle grinder, that would suck.