Pennock's Fiero Forum
  General Fiero Chat
  Best Lowering springs? (Page 1)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version

This topic is 2 pages long:  1   2 
Previous Page | Next Page
next newest topic | next oldest topic
Best Lowering springs? by Burly1
Started on: 04-05-2016 08:02 PM
Replies: 40 (4158 views)
Last post by: fieroguru on 04-12-2016 08:38 PM
Burly1
Member
Posts: 38
From: Central MN USA
Registered: Apr 2012


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-05-2016 08:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Burly1Send a Private Message to Burly1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm looking at lowering my Fiero to eliminate some body roll and for the look as well. It's an 88 2.5 5 speed. Everything I have found has been for 84-87s, besides the fiero store springs. I do participate in a little autocross so it has to be functional. Thanks.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
olejoedad
Member
Posts: 17911
From: Clarendon Twp., MI
Registered: May 2004


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 205
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 09:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
IMHO, the best option for lowering springs on an 88 is to cut the existing stock springs.
GM reduced the spring rate on the 88, most lowering spring are in the 300# range, way too stiff for an 88. Cut stock springs only increase spring rate slightly, maybe 20%.
One coil on each corner has worked well.
Addition of the rear anti-roll bar from a GT or Formula will make a significant improvement.
Check out fieroguru's lateral link relocation brackerty as well to improve rear camber characteristics.
IP: Logged
IanT720
Member
Posts: 1703
From: Whitmore Lake, MI
Registered: Sep 2010


Feedback score:    (9)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 09:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for IanT720Send a Private Message to IanT720Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Exactly! I'm not to sure about 88's since I haven't owned one. But if springs are hard to find, just chop off a coil. I've done it a bunch with many cars. The ride is just stiffer, but works perfect. On my 87 I got some ST springs cheap, so I went that route. ST are the lowest springs you can buy.
IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 43222
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 184
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 01:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:


Addition of the rear anti-roll bar from a GT or Formula will make a significant improvement.
.


The Formula rear sway bar isn't up to par?
IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 02:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Lots of info in this thread - Lowering an 88 Formula ???

I won't bother repeating what I already stated in that thread. I will add though that I removed the front lowering springs and replaced them with the stiffest '84 front springs with two coils removed. I'm very pleased with how they feel at autocross. The rear lowering springs are alright, but I'd now like the back of my Formula to be an inch or so lower. The next change might be to adjustable rear coil-overs.

Cutting the front springs works well on a Fiero to lower it... but because of the shape of the rear springs and how they mount/sit, IMO cutting them down doesn't work as well.
IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 02:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Patrick

36251 posts
Member since Apr 99
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:

The Formula rear sway bar isn't up to par?


I suspect you've misunderstood what was posted. There is no factory sway bar on the back of an '88 coupe. The suggestion made (and it's a good one) is to install a rear sway bar from an '88 GT or Formula.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-06-2016).]

IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 43222
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 184
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 03:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I suspect you've misunderstood what was posted. There is no factory sway bar on the back of an '88 coupe. The suggestion made (and it's a good one) is to install a rear sway bar from an '88 GT or Formula.



Wups yep, I read the statement as to put a GT one on a Formula. oops.
Thanks
IP: Logged
Burly1
Member
Posts: 38
From: Central MN USA
Registered: Apr 2012


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 06:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Burly1Send a Private Message to Burly1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the replies.
Sounds like I will be looking at getting a swaybar.
Although cutting springs seems to be the way to go I'm not too into the idea of cut springs.
Has anyone had experience with the West Coast Fieros coilovers and front springs kit?
A stiff ride doesn't scare me away much.
IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Burly1:

Although cutting springs seems to be the way to go I'm not too into the idea of cut springs.


I'm just curious... What is your apprehension in doing so?
IP: Logged
Burly1
Member
Posts: 38
From: Central MN USA
Registered: Apr 2012


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Burly1Send a Private Message to Burly1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just would rather do it the right way the first time. I can't help but correlate cutting springs with "slammed" Honda Civic's for some reason.
IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 06:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Burly1:

I just would rather do it the right way the first time.


...which translates to you believing that using springs which have been shortened by having a coil or two cut off is the wrong way to lower a car.

You realize of course that coil springs don't spontaneously appear at a prescribed length. They're CUT to length from much longer lengths of steel before being formed.

I just think you're cheating yourself of possibly creating something that will perform exactly the way you want... for no valid reason.
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Burly1
Member
Posts: 38
From: Central MN USA
Registered: Apr 2012


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 07:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Burly1Send a Private Message to Burly1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Partially I don't want to mess anything up either. There's a lot more opportunity for error when cutting the spring versus buying different ones. If I mess up my stock springs i'll have to source a new set.
IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 07:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Burly1:

Partially I don't want to mess anything up either. There's a lot more opportunity for error when cutting the spring versus buying different ones. If I mess up my stock springs i'll have to source a new set.


I never suggested you cut your stock '88 springs.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


Lots of info in this thread - Lowering an 88 Formula ???

I won't bother repeating what I already stated in that thread. I will add though that I removed the front lowering springs and replaced them with the stiffest '84 front springs with two coils removed. I'm very pleased with how they feel at autocross. The rear lowering springs are alright, but I'd now like the back of my Formula to be an inch or so lower. The next change might be to adjustable rear coil-overs.

Cutting the front springs works well on a Fiero to lower it... but because of the shape of the rear springs and how they mount/sit, IMO cutting them down doesn't work as well.

IP: Logged
Burly1
Member
Posts: 38
From: Central MN USA
Registered: Apr 2012


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 07:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Burly1Send a Private Message to Burly1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just don't like the idea of cut springs in general
IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Fine.
IP: Logged
olejoedad
Member
Posts: 17911
From: Clarendon Twp., MI
Registered: May 2004


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 205
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 09:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Burly1:

I just don't like the idea of cut springs in general


If you use too stiff a lowering spring on an 88 (and for the street, most offering are way too stiff) you end up with a car that handles like a tiddly wink on rough surfaces.
Fine for a racetrack, but on the street they can be dangerous.
Been there, done that, have the T-shirt.

Cut the springs with a hacksaw or die grinder, e-z p-z, no brainier type thing.....
IP: Logged
tebailey
Member
Posts: 2622
From: Bay City MI
Registered: Jan 2013


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:


If you use too stiff a lowering spring on an 88 (and for the street, most offering are way too stiff) you end up with a car that handles like a tiddly wink on rough surfaces.
Fine for a racetrack, but on the street they can be dangerous.
Been there, done that, have the T-shirt.

Cut the springs with a hacksaw or die grinder, e-z p-z, no brainier type thing.....


Agreed, NEVER USE A TORCH! The heat from a torch cut will destroy the temper in the springs. I cut my 84's fronts one coil and it lowered the front a little over an inch and once I cut the stop tower down the ride is not much stiffer than before.
IP: Logged
hnthomps
Member
Posts: 5728
From: Columbia, SC
Registered: Jul 2003


Feedback score:    (18)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 51
Rate this member

Report this Post04-06-2016 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hnthompsSend a Private Message to hnthompsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Depending on how far you want to lower the vehicle, you could use rear coilovers and Rodney Dickman's lowering ball joints (0.5" and 1.0"). I have coilovers and one inch lowering ball joints on an 88 and like the stance very much.

Nelson
IP: Logged
Raydar
Member
Posts: 40686
From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country.
Registered: Oct 1999


Feedback score:    (13)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 460
Rate this member

Report this Post04-07-2016 06:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have experimented with cut springs on several 88s.
Removing one coil will lower the front to match the stock rear height.

On my 88, I currently have 86 GT springs in the front, cut by 1.25 coils. In the rear, I have 88 front springs, cut down by ~1 coil.
This increases the spring rate on all 4 corners, but not by much.



As long as you use a cutoff wheel to cut the springs (do NOT use a torch) you should have no issues. After I make the cut, I dress the end with a file, then paint to prevent oxidation.

I'm about to rebuild the entire suspension on an 88 that I just bought. Full poly. Monroe Sensatracs.
The front springs will be cut by one coil. The rears will likely remain stock. Otherwise, no changes for now.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 04-07-2016).]

IP: Logged
IanT720
Member
Posts: 1703
From: Whitmore Lake, MI
Registered: Sep 2010


Feedback score:    (9)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-07-2016 05:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IanT720Send a Private Message to IanT720Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Never use a torch. I've used an angle grinder many times. Works great! I don't slam them, just lower a bit. Looks way better.
IP: Logged
2.5
Member
Posts: 43222
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 184
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 10:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

On my 88, I currently have 86 GT springs in the front, cut by 1.25 coils. In the rear, I have 88 front springs, cut down by ~1 coil.
This increases the spring rate on all 4 corners, but not by much.



Does it increase the spring rate less than cutting one coil off of 88 fronts and leaving them in front?
Also does it leave it the same height as just cutting 1 coil off the front of 88 fronts (thus matching the rear)?
Thanks
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
olejoedad
Member
Posts: 17911
From: Clarendon Twp., MI
Registered: May 2004


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 205
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 12:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Spring rate is higher on the pre-88's, so 2 coils from an 86 spring would give a higher rate than 1 coil off of an 88 spring.
IP: Logged
dobey
Member
Posts: 11572
From:
Registered: Sep 2001


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 371
User Banned

Report this Post04-08-2016 01:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Burly1:

I just don't like the idea of cut springs in general


Drop spindles.
Lowering ball joints.
IP: Logged
carbon
Member
Posts: 4767
From: Eagan, MN
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 132
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 03:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
All stock '88 suspension, Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints.

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-08-2016).]

IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 04:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

All stock '88 suspension, Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints.


For anyone who's only interested in bringing the '88 front end down (to where it should've been from the factory), that method seems to work out very well.

However, if the whole car is to be lowered and/or it's desired for the suspension to be a little stiffer (for autocross etc), the choices become less clear.
IP: Logged
carbon
Member
Posts: 4767
From: Eagan, MN
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 132
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 05:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

For anyone who's only interested in bringing the '88 front end down (to where it should've been from the factory), that method seems to work out very well.

However, if the whole car is to be lowered and/or it's desired for the suspension to be a little stiffer (for autocross etc), the choices become less clear.


Yup... just giving the example. OP said he doesn't like cutting springs, so here's the example. Sometimes it helps to know the difference individual components make.

Missing where I said I was [/end]ing the thread.

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-08-2016).]

IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 05:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

Missing where I said I was [/end]ing the thread.


???
IP: Logged
carbon
Member
Posts: 4767
From: Eagan, MN
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 132
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 05:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

???


You responded as if I hadn't read the rest of the thread or somehow thought this was all one would need to lower the car.

Obviously front ball joints won't affect the rear right height. Just showing the effect of the one mod vs. laundry list + picture.

Edit: Yeah prolly reading too much into this like everyone does around here... just trying to fit in again...

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-08-2016).]

IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 07:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

You responded as if I hadn't read the rest of the thread or somehow thought this was all one would need to lower the car.


Man oh man, I gave your post a thumbs up and also stated... "that method seems to work out very well".

You're correct, you read far too much into what I had posted. You possibly need to remind yourself that the OP (and other newbies) reading this thread probably don't know what you and I might know, and it doesn't hurt to re-consolidate what's being said. Geez...

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-08-2016).]

IP: Logged
carbon
Member
Posts: 4767
From: Eagan, MN
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 132
Rate this member

Report this Post04-08-2016 10:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Tee hee, well that was fun... just messin' with you Patrick.

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

Have a good one!

IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-09-2016 03:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

Tee hee, well that was fun... just messin' with you Patrick.



No problem... meet my friend.


IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
2.5
Member
Posts: 43222
From: Southern MN
Registered: May 2007


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 184
Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

All stock '88 suspension, Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints.




No other changes required? Seems like a nice choice.
IP: Logged
carbon
Member
Posts: 4767
From: Eagan, MN
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 132
Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 02:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
To the OP's use case, I wouldn't recommend the lowering ball joints on a car that would be autocrossed... it puts more strain in the lower control arm and/or ball joint than what it was probably originally designed to handle. For me it's not really a big deal, but really biting into a corner would make me worry a little bit.




They give the steering knuckle a good additional bit of leverage on the LCA and ball joint itself. Some people have welded them in, I have not and didn't have a problem for the 3 years I drove it before parking it.
IP: Logged
Imnuts
Member
Posts: 605
From: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Registered: Jun 2013


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 03:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ImnutsSend a Private Message to ImnutsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by carbon:

All stock '88 suspension, Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints.




Here is the front of my 88 with Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints. Does yours measure 27"?

IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 04:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Imnuts:

Here is the front of my 88 with Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints. Does yours measure 27"?


That measurement would mean a whole lot more if you also mentioned your tire size/diameter.
IP: Logged
Imnuts
Member
Posts: 605
From: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Registered: Jun 2013


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 04:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ImnutsSend a Private Message to ImnutsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

That measurement would mean a whole lot more if you also mentioned your tire size/diameter.


I think they are stock 205/60 15.
IP: Logged
Patrick
Member
Posts: 36251
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 458
Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 04:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Figured I may as well show what the current stance (with 225/50/16 tires) looks like with my Formula.



 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I removed the front lowering springs and replaced them with the stiffest '84 front springs with two coils removed. I'm very pleased with how they feel at autocross. The rear lowering springs are alright, but I'd now like the back of my Formula to be an inch or so lower.



And just out of curiosity, I measured the distance from the road to the top of the front fender opening. It was 25.5 inches. The back is 26.5 inches.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-11-2016).]

IP: Logged
carbon
Member
Posts: 4767
From: Eagan, MN
Registered: Apr 2004


Feedback score: (2)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 132
Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 04:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Imnuts:


Here is the front of my 88 with Rodney Dickman's 1" drop front lower ball joints. Does yours measure 27"?



I just went out and measured mine at 26.5"... so pretty close. With as soft as the 88 front springs are, it doesn't take much weight to change the settled ride height.

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-11-2016).]

IP: Logged
Ryanap333
Member
Posts: 182
From: Slocomb, al usa
Registered: Jun 2015


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post04-11-2016 09:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Ryanap333Send a Private Message to Ryanap333Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got the fiwro stores suspension kit 2 with the lowering sprungs shocks and swaybars for my 87 328 replica. Got the back on now. Im in the middle of a 3800sc swap and thats how its sitting right this minute. I will say that i like the looks of the new stance
IP: Logged
Blacktree
Member
Posts: 20770
From: Central Florida
Registered: Dec 2001


Feedback score:    (12)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 350
Rate this member

Report this Post04-12-2016 12:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

IMHO, the best option for lowering springs on an 88 is to cut the existing stock springs.
GM reduced the spring rate on the 88, most lowering spring are in the 300# range, way too stiff for an 88.

My '87 Fiero has an '88 cradle swapped in, with 350 lb/in coilover springs. It doesn't feel too stiff in the back. Actually, it rides smoother than the '87 rear suspension did with Eibach springs. My first impression after swapping in the '88 cradle and suspension was "Hey, the rear end doesn't skitter like a go-kart anymore!"

That said, cutting the springs is a viable alternative, if done properly. Don't cut them with a torch, and don't heat the end with a torch to bend it. That will ruin the temper of the steel. Instead, cut them with an angle grinder or something similar, and drape a wet rag on the spring to help keep it from getting too hot. Just don't snag the wet rag with your angle grinder, that would suck.
IP: Logged
Previous Page | Next Page

This topic is 2 pages long:  1   2 
next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock