Switch is likely good to 15-20a Duty Cycle as PW switch? likely >99% off <1% on
Main thing killing any contact to control motors are when motor is at stall at end of travel. Motors draw more amps to starting and most amps when stalled. PW motors get stalled when full open or close. Then add surge current and volts to kill power to inductive loads.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Untill the wire overheats I would think for a long time as it is mechanical and have good size bars to conduct current. It is the old grease that tends to slow them down.
Motor. I ruined a really good cordless 1/2" drill by leaving it in the back of my truck with the battery installed--it rained all night on it, and the switch lost the magic smoke (melted). Motor and battery is still good but switch is no longer available from manufacturer. I believe I can make it physically fit easily enough, IF it will handle the current load. I mostly use it for driving roofing screws thru roofing into 2 x 6s and drilling 3/8" pilot holes in gate posts for the screw in hinges. (maybe I shoulda posted this in OT?)
[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 12-28-2015).]
Did you look on ebay for a switch? I found an long discontinued switch for an angle grinder on there for 11 bucks brand new. Can't remember the seller, but he had a lot of discontinued power tool parts like that.
------------------ 1986 SE Aero coupe.
3.4 DOHC swap is complete and running, now just have to finish the rest of the car...
Don't think it will work for what you want but I did reuse a defroster button to a control for my wen 4500 lb winch, at least I think it was the defroster switch. hey it worked for years. until I set the shop on fire grinding and burned it up. saved the shop but the switch and winch melted.
I have an old craftsman screw gun I burned up, or maybe it was the trigger if you want to try that give me a PM and I will send it off. One thing I will say mine was one of the ones you got in a kit, I liked the way that ones case was made, it had a lanyard on it, the new one doesn't.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 12-29-2015).]
Motor. I ruined a really good cordless 1/2" drill by leaving it in the back of my truck with the battery installed--it rained all night on it, and the switch lost the magic smoke (melted). Motor and battery is still good but switch is no longer available from manufacturer. I believe I can make it physically fit easily enough, IF it will handle the current load. I mostly use it for driving roofing screws thru roofing into 2 x 6s and drilling 3/8" pilot holes in gate posts for the screw in hinges. (maybe I shoulda posted this in OT?)
type in make and model in flee bay, I'm sure you'll find one cheap for parts.. might even find the switch.. open up your drill and look at the switch, it'll have a name and part #.. I doubt it was made by the drill brand..
Thanks but I'm pretty sure there isn't room in that drill handle for both the relay and a switch.
my switch is from a 19.2 volt battery gun so it should be able to handle anything you throw at it. the internals of the switch itself that fit inside the handle are just a switch with a rod that fits in the trigger.