I am trying to disassemble the front suspension on my Fiero so that I can clean and paint it, as well as replace anything that is rusty.
I have everything removed on the passenger side except for the front bolt on the lower control arm.
It spins, with resistance. And as you can see the bushings are pretty shot.
There is not enough room to hammer the bolt out, from the right (rear) of the pictures to the left (front).
I tried to press the bolt out with my ball joint press but only broke my tool...
Trying to spin it out only spins the bolt but makes not progress, not matter what position the arm itself is in
Any ideas that I'm missing?

My next, and honestly last, idea is to just cut the bolt.

yep, cut it... might need to cut it on both sides... cut closes to the bushing as u can, its probably siezed inside the bushings metal sleeve.
sawzaw with a metal torch blade will make short work of it.

Three options here.

1) Squeeze a Sawzall blade between the lower control arm and the crossmember and try to cut the hardened bolt.
2) Get a real torch, think oxy-acetylene, and cut the head off the bolt as well as the threads on the other end. If you're careful, you can apply to the offending area and not damage any surrounding metal.
3) Find another control arm, from another car, and take your anger out and remove the old one off the car by any means necessary.

There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Another option is to burn the rubber out to get it out of your way. Then rotate the bolt and sleeve to expose the seam (the stock bushing sleeves are rolled pieces of metal and have a seam their full length). Use a chisel to enlarge the seam. By enlarging the seam it breaks the rusted bond and it will break free and allow you to slide the bolt out of it.

I carefully took a die grinder to the the threads and the head of the bolt. I then took a torch and heated up the bolt to burn out the rubber. I used a small crappy 3/8 bit extension and tapped out the rest of the bolt. I then pried and wiggled the control arm out. It took some doing, but it worked.

I just had a war with the same thing on the rear. I had the cradle out and it was a pain that lasted to days. In the end I got the hot wrench, torch, and cut both sides of the bolt. I'm just going to install new bolts and bushings. Can't imagine doing all of that while it was still on the car, just cut it with cut off wheel or torch. O, and burning the bushings makes a mess.

Do not torch that. Too much Heat effects hardness of frame etc.
Cutting is fun... Not.
Many suspension Bolts Nuts and Washers are class 10.9, grade 8 . Very hard. Heating means getting new bolts etc.

cut rubber so you can see inner sleeve. Big bushing likely needs both side.

See my Cave, Bushings

Been using this method for many years.
This will expand the seem and release pressure from rust buildup. Open seem lets oil at rest of area if needed.

Grease inside of sleeve when installing new... grease keeps out water etc.
Grease or any lube at all on bolt threads then torque spec is invalid. Torque spec is for clean and dry threads.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

I always have good luck using an air hammer on those stubborn bolts. I have two, a snap-on and a cheap harbor freight one. The snap-on one is too big to fit in there but the harbor freight cheapo one fits OK. It takes awhile but it works for me.