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Our adventures in Plasti-Dip and Fieros by BlackTopRacing
Started on: 07-08-2014 09:04 PM
Replies: 29 (1386 views)
Last post by: E.Furgal on 08-20-2014 10:14 AM
BlackTopRacing
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Report this Post07-08-2014 09:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Black Top Racing is the new name / brand for Top Line Group Automotive (www.TLG-Auto.com) and sometime this month the evolution of our company into Black Top Racing will be complete. The new URL will be www.BlackTopUpgrades.com

Anyways, this year we bought a "new" 1986 Fiero GT and we wanted to get a little crazy with it. Having seen and read a LOT of buzz about Plasti-Dip on this forum and others we decided to give it a shot! We were all very very optimistic at first but now that the romance of this fad product has wore off here are the things we learned during our experiment with Plasti-Dip:

**The more you prep your car like a real paint job (fixing scratches, cracks, etc...) the better the Plasti-Dip job will turn out. We thought the rubber coating would fill in rock chips a lot better than it did and I would say that basically it DOES NOT FILL IN anything. If anything it accentuates imperfections.

**Once it's done it is a real pain to clean. You cannot use any sort of microfiber towel on it, to wash it or detail it. Actually, there is no detailing. Your only cleaning option is to spray it down and hope it looks clean afterwards. The finished plastic rubbery product is very bumpy and all the little pieces of dust and junk on the paint hide out inside and between the bumps in the dip.

**Plasti-Dip is very fragile! We let it sit for 2 days before really doing anything else to the car after the paint job and it's quite surprising how easily it is to damage the rubber. I believe a good rock chip will pretty easily damage the front bumper. However it is also VERY EASY to fix. We just use an aerosol spray can of the color we sprayed on the car and when there's a blemish or a rock chip we just spray new dip over the damage. That part is kind of fun because it's like adding new skin to the paint job.

**The overall look of the finish is not impressive. I've seen people Plasti-Dip their vehicles and it looks blotchy and spotty and I thought it was because they did it with the spray cans. We purchased the "Dip Your Car" ready to spray rubber and the air-powered spray gun that they sell for this product and we went through 3 gallons of the coating to produce 6 coats of dip and it is still tiger-striped, blotchy and not perfect looking in a lot of places. Also, we know how to paint a car. There is no lack of experience in using a paint gun with our crew, so it's quite surprising that we did everything "the right way" and it still came out looking fairly amateurish.

**The whole process took about 8 hours giving 20 minutes between coats of dip. This 8 hour time period includes dismantling some parts of the car to spray them off, taping off the wheels, exhaust tips, windshield, door glass, inside door panel and draping plastic over the interior of the car so we could do the door jams. Also this 8 hour period includes cleanup after finishing and ripping all the tape off the car.

**Plasti-Dip does not go on very well on clear or translucent plastic surfaces. The "GT" inlay on the back bumper in the side molding didn't cover up very well, the front Fiero logo badge didn't cover very well, the rear bumper reflectors and the front turn-signal housings all did not cover very well. It's like the dip didn't want to stick to any of it, so in the final product we will remove all remaining dip from those products.

**It really does come off as easy and safely as they say it does. In my opinion, almost too easily. But this is also good news for you if it didn't come out as nice as you thought it would.

**We used 3 gallons of "Ready to Spray" Plasti-Dip and the professional spray gun and did roughly 6 coats on the car. I wish we had another gallon to do a really thick last coat but we didn't order that many.

Anyways, here are the pictures from our process. Tomorrow we're getting the car outside to take some more pictures and play around with it more. We'll post more then!
Here's Dusty with the Fiero right before starting:



Now we start the process:







[This message has been edited by BlackTopRacing (edited 07-08-2014).]

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BlackTopRacing
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BlackTopRacing

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Here are some more pictures showing the bad parts of the finished product:



Here you can see a key-scratch from the original paint job covered up by the Plasti-dip. This is a standard example of how well, or how poorly the dip filled in imperfections:



Some of the dip lifted here on the top of the door when the tape was removed so we sprayed some more down on top of it and it seemed to solve the issue. It blends surprisingly well:



More rock chips that didn't get covered very well. In hindsight we should have at least sanded these imperfections smooth:



Here's an example of how poorly it covers the hard plastic pieces:
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BlackTopRacing
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For the side markers we just sprayed right over them and then cut out the oval shape over the lens with a razor blade. Then all you need to do is grab a corner and lift - it comes right off with zero residue:





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BlackTopRacing
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BlackTopRacing

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Here are some more in-progress pictures of the whole car:











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BlackTopRacing
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Report this Post07-08-2014 09:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

BlackTopRacing

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Here are a few finished and semi-finished pictures.

Like I said, we'll have some really nice pictures (not from a cell phone) tomorrow to post up. This is just an appetizer!











Overall the "paint job" went OK but not as good as we had hoped or as good as we were anticipating. It still looks cool from 10 feet, but up close it's pretty disappointing.

I would not really recommend doing this to your car unless it's a darker color and you're prepared to do a lot of the little nitpicky paint job prep things ahead of time like fixing scratches and rock chips. Also, make sure all your panels are the same color by using a base of some kind otherwise your final color might come out looking different on different panels.

Let us know what you think and stay tuned for more pictures tomorrow!

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Report this Post07-08-2014 09:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dave E BouyClick Here to Email Dave E BouySend a Private Message to Dave E BouyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I gotta tell you. I don't hate it. I have some damaged areas on my notch that include the rear clip, decklid and rear facial/bumper cover. I thought I might do these in a gunmetal grey for a 2 tone effect. I would however try to fill the areas that are damaged before spraying. But all in all I think your car looks great
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Report this Post07-09-2014 01:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for seajaiSend a Private Message to seajaiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Did you get your stuff from dipyourcar.com? Is that Koi orange? From what I have read, the dip needs to cure for a week or so before it becomes more durable. Check out this video on waxing Plastidip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ua9GQgVAfs it looks like it really helps make it less likely to mark up and easier to clean. I did my trunk lid a few days ago and it seemed kinda soft the next day but it seems to be firming up as the days go by.

[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 07-09-2014).]

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Report this Post07-09-2014 02:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jediperkSend a Private Message to jediperkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Great review. Very informative and in depth. I'm thinking about trying this next summer and this was a great read ahead. I'll be ordering some more things from you guys when I get back from Korea.

Thanks!
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Report this Post07-09-2014 08:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That particular color seems to glow in the light. I like plasti dip, I have used it for accents but not done a whole car.
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Report this Post07-09-2014 09:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It appears that if you want a really good looking Plasti-dip finish you should spend as much work prepping as you would for a "real" paint job.

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Report this Post07-09-2014 10:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

It appears that if you want a really good looking Plasti-dip finish you should spend as much work prepping as you would for a "real" paint job.




Or just have nice smooth paint. I guess the point is it doesnt cover defects.
In my opinon you dont want to sand for it to adhere, or i would think it would be harder to remove.

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 07-09-2014).]

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Report this Post07-09-2014 11:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero84FreakClick Here to Email Fiero84FreakSend a Private Message to Fiero84FreakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is a very good write-up and thank you for the time you took to put it together.

One of the things that would be interesting is to see how well this compares to performing the Rustoleum "rolled-on" paint jobs that were the rage a few years back. I actually did do that to a car I owned, and I have yet to even attempt to "dip" a whole car. My initial assumptions would be performing the Rustoleum paint job would be less initial cost investment, but more prep and labor intensive.
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Report this Post07-09-2014 12:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by seajai:

Did you get your stuff from dipyourcar.com? Is that Koi orange? From what I have read, the dip needs to cure for a week or so before it becomes more durable. Check out this video on waxing Plastidip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ua9GQgVAfs it looks like it really helps make it less likely to mark up and easier to clean. I did my trunk lid a few days ago and it seemed kinda soft the next day but it seems to be firming up as the days go by.



Thanks for the info! We did not know about waxing Plasti-Dip, but we'll definitely look into it. Looks like a great option to keep the finish looking better.

We did get the product from dipyourcar.com and we used the Firebelly orange color, not Koi.
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BlackTopRacing
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BlackTopRacing

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quote
Originally posted by jediperk:

Great review. Very informative and in depth. I'm thinking about trying this next summer and this was a great read ahead. I'll be ordering some more things from you guys when I get back from Korea.

Thanks!


Sounds good! Please let us know if you have questions or need help!
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BlackTopRacing
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BlackTopRacing

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quote
Originally posted by 2.5:

That particular color seems to glow in the light. I like plasti dip, I have used it for accents but not done a whole car.


You are totally right. In fact this color seems to glow in the dark! It's wild - everyone who sees it says something like "OMG It's so bright!"

We weren't expecting such a drastic fluorescent color, but now we know.
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BlackTopRacing

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quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

It appears that if you want a really good looking Plasti-dip finish you should spend as much work prepping as you would for a "real" paint job.




Absolutely right. This is something we wanted to test. Everyone online on forums for Plasti-Dip or on Youtube demonstrating this process seem to portray the idea that Plasti-Dip is a miracle paint job that takes no effort at all and obviously this is not true.

The question we have now is if you're going to go through all that work to prep the surface and make it perfect, why not just do a real paint job??
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BlackTopRacing
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BlackTopRacing

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quote
Originally posted by Fiero84Freak:

This is a very good write-up and thank you for the time you took to put it together.

One of the things that would be interesting is to see how well this compares to performing the Rustoleum "rolled-on" paint jobs that were the rage a few years back. I actually did do that to a car I owned, and I have yet to even attempt to "dip" a whole car. My initial assumptions would be performing the Rustoleum paint job would be less initial cost investment, but more prep and labor intensive.


Well, now our official opinion is that the prep is very important. I don't know how much a rolled-on Rustoleum paint job would cost, but we have about $350 + 8 hours into this one. I think if we were going to do it again we would probably be into it for another $450 (extra plasti-dip material for more coats) and much more time in prep. I think if you're going to do this Plasti-dip job very well you need to expect to spend about $500 and a whole weekend. The first day for prep and cleaning, then the next day to shoot the car.
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Report this Post07-09-2014 01:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Bradley JayClick Here to Email Bradley JaySend a Private Message to Bradley JayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BlackTopRacing:

Here are a few finished and semi-finished pictures.

Like I said, we'll have some really nice pictures (not from a cell phone) tomorrow to post up. This is just an appetizer!


Chris Nelson


I don't mean to get off-topic, but what kind-of lightbar is that on top of the car?
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BlackTopRacing
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Report this Post07-09-2014 04:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's a secret. haha

We'll post a video of it soon.
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Report this Post07-10-2014 05:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So, after washing the car again today to get it ready for the photoshoot we ran into another Plasti-Dip issue. The top corners on the front bumper are lifting:



This just goes to show again how important the prep stage is.

We actually started with a brand new replacement bumper from the Fierostore and didn't do much cleaning to it other than run over it one time with a degreaser spray. I believe this is the reason for the lifting, because the new bumper from the Fiero Store was kind of greasy when it showed up and probably needed to be cleaned better than what we did.

Now we will DEFINITELY have to re-do the front bumper, hopefully we'll have some better luck on the second time around.
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Report this Post07-10-2014 05:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

BlackTopRacing

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During the photoshoot today:

















Keep in mind these are not the finished product pictures for our photoshoot, just some iphone pictures as teasers!
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Report this Post07-10-2014 05:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here are 2 of the final pictures from today's photoshoot:






---------------
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Report this Post07-10-2014 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You DO have to do at least minimal prep work. Painting over paint that is already flaking off like the hood edge you showed, never should have been done. The guy next door does them and they look good...if you like the look...for at least several years. His own Mustangs been done 2 or 3 years and looks the same now. You cant expect to paint over sap and bugs and expect anything to stay on. I do it over chrome wheels for winter and never had it peel until I took it off in the spring. I do clean them good first with wax and tar remover, then Dawn dish soap, rinsed well and dried.
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Report this Post07-10-2014 07:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

You DO have to do at least minimal prep work. Painting over paint that is already flaking off like the hood edge you showed, never should have been done. The guy next door does them and they look good...if you like the look...for at least several years. His own Mustangs been done 2 or 3 years and looks the same now. You cant expect to paint over sap and bugs and expect anything to stay on. I do it over chrome wheels for winter and never had it peel until I took it off in the spring. I do clean them good first with wax and tar remover, then Dawn dish soap, rinsed well and dried.


Thanks Roger. I'd like to make sure people understand that one of the reasons we did it with minimal paint prep work is because all over the internet there are so many people doing it this way and claiming that their rust is covered, their scratches are gone and rock chips have disappeared through the magic of Plasti-Dip! We didn't believe them so we tried it ourselves and this is the outcome we got.

We've already stated that we recommend proper paint job prep work before doing a whole car, and this is simply the proof of that.
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Report this Post07-10-2014 11:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for aaronkochClick Here to Email aaronkochSend a Private Message to aaronkochEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've had my car dipped for a whole year, and did it in my driveway. Link in sig.
I had NONE of the issues you did, and started with 4 different colored panels that were way less than perfect.

I have to assume that you didn't setup the gun right, and didn't remove the wax. Also, after it's cured, spray wax works well, and I always use microfiber cloth to wash and dry with no problems.

Something isn't right here.

------------------


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Report this Post07-11-2014 01:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for huracan2015Send a Private Message to huracan2015Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Aw come on! I am ordering plasti dip tomorrow and I thought I was going to be the first to use firebelly orange on a Fiero! I CANNOT BELIEVE YOU JUST DID THIS! Looks great guys!!!!!
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Report this Post07-12-2014 10:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerClick Here to Email BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Speaking of Plasti-Dip, I sprayed my EGR solenoid with the basic black spray and I have not set a Code 32 since. I wanted to seal up any and all minor vacuum leaks in and around the hoses and fittings, etc. I think it worked.
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Report this Post08-20-2014 12:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackTopRacingClick Here to visit BlackTopRacing's HomePageClick Here to Email BlackTopRacingSend a Private Message to BlackTopRacingEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
We are going to re-do this Fiero in Koi orange instead of Firebelly orange because we learned something very important yesterday about our choice of Plasti-Dip materials:

Apparently the fluorescent group of Plasti-Dip colors (which our Firebelly color is a part of) doesn't last long in direct UV rays, and typically will only last a month.

It doesn't cover as well so you need to spray way more dip than normal, AND it goes on much thinner so it doesn't hide imperfections! This is both a bummer (because we already sprayed the car...) and a relief (that we can do it again to get better results) so we have ordered more dip and we're going to do the car over.

Hopefully this time we will have better results!
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Report this Post08-20-2014 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for E.FurgalSend a Private Message to E.FurgalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
pfft for a matte finish, and the prep needed, I'd get a tintable primer and have at it.. for a full car..

accents it seems fine and wheels also as long as you don't put tomuch heat into the wheels.. or it's a r.p.i.t.a. to get off.

I'm sure this fad will die soon as thugs dip a car, rob bank and peal off color, or drive by's etc..
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E.Furgal

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quote
Originally posted by BlackTopRacing:

We are going to re-do this Fiero in Koi orange instead of Firebelly orange because we learned something very important yesterday about our choice of Plasti-Dip materials:

Apparently the fluorescent group of Plasti-Dip colors (which our Firebelly color is a part of) doesn't last long in direct UV rays, and typically will only last a month.

It doesn't cover as well so you need to spray way more dip than normal, AND it goes on much thinner so it doesn't hide imperfections! This is both a bummer (because we already sprayed the car...) and a relief (that we can do it again to get better results) so we have ordered more dip and we're going to do the car over.

Hopefully this time we will have better results!


body putty FTW..

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