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Valve cover trunk side by LornesGT
Started on: 01-20-2014 06:34 PM
Replies: 8 (242 views)
Last post by: Fiero84Freak on 01-23-2014 12:21 AM
LornesGT
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Report this Post01-20-2014 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LornesGTSend a Private Message to LornesGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Should the engine mount really have to be remove or loose just to get the valve cover off? It's bad enough taking all the other stuff off!

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hiwil88formula
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Report this Post01-20-2014 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hiwil88formulaClick Here to Email hiwil88formulaSend a Private Message to hiwil88formulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just loosen it it makes it a whole lot easier.
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Heretic
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Report this Post01-20-2014 08:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HereticSend a Private Message to HereticEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's not necessary to remove it or loosen it, I never have.

------------------
86 GT

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BrittB
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Report this Post01-20-2014 10:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BrittBSend a Private Message to BrittBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Mine came off without issue. The front on the other hand was a little tight but did come off as well without removing any brackets.
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LornesGT
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Report this Post01-20-2014 11:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LornesGTSend a Private Message to LornesGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks maybe the motor mount is bent some. This is not a picture of mine but looks a lot like it.
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Fiero84Freak
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Report this Post01-22-2014 08:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero84FreakClick Here to Email Fiero84FreakSend a Private Message to Fiero84FreakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No the top side dog bone mount has a bit of a bent curve like that. It looks even more silly when you remove it completely

You shouldn't have to remove that mount though to get to the valve cover bolts. You are however going to have to remove everything intake-wise down to the lower intake, including the fuel rail assembly. If you haven't done it before it is a pain but it is very do-able, and I typically suggest you heavily mark where everything goes. In addition to all the new gaskets you'll need (DO NOT get cork gaskets for the valve covers. There are Fiero-specific ones) this would also be a very good time to remove the injectors from the rail and have them serviced and new o-rings, especially if the vehicle is + 120,000 miles. I soak the pintle sides of the injectors for a few days and check the filter screens. The re-o-ring them, check and clean the fuel rail & fuel pressure regulator, and reinstall after the other work is done.
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LornesGT
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Report this Post01-22-2014 07:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LornesGTSend a Private Message to LornesGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah I have everything removed just the cover didn't want to come past that mount. Soak pintles in what? The screens are on the end of the injectors? Are they removable? What is recommended to clean all the carbon? I know the upper intake is going to be a pain to clean. I could create a bath of something to soak it in.
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BrittB
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Report this Post01-22-2014 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BrittBSend a Private Message to BrittBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I wonder if you could gain clearance by rotating the engine to have the exhaust valve depressed?
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Fiero84Freak
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Report this Post01-23-2014 12:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero84FreakClick Here to Email Fiero84FreakSend a Private Message to Fiero84FreakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LornesGT:
Soak pintles in what? The screens are on the end of the injectors? Are they removable?


I soak them in common fuel injector cleaner for about three days. Yes the screens are removable, but they are easily damaged. I would do a visual check first, and then if you think they should be serviced completely have them serviced at a reputable injector servicing shop. letting the pintle side soak though should do a whole lot of good.

 
quote
Originally posted by LornesGT:
What is recommended to clean all the carbon? I know the upper intake is going to be a pain to clean. I could create a bath of something to soak it in.


Elbow grease. A lot of it.

No seriously though when I do this job I spray brake clean into all the ports of the removed parts. It air dries. Since the color on the plenum and valve covers are so caked on from heat, using brake clean doesn't damage the surfaces as much as it normally would if you sprayed it on a painted surface. From there I clean the mating surfaces REALLY good, clean the EGR tube super good, clean up the PCV system (it's likely got residual oil that did not get burned off), and then reinstall.
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