|Originally posted by Jfrost:|
Just saw your thread about this. What led you to believe that this was the cause? Or did you just discover it when you took the Trans out again
I tried three master cylinders (stock, Rodney Dickman, Duralast), three slave cylinders (stock, MR2 piston in stock body, Rodney Dickman), inspected every inch of the hydraulic line, and bled the system in every way possible so I assumed the hydraulic system was good. I got
To thinking about how the master cylinder works, and how ClutchNet makes their clutches.
The master cylinder has a relief valve in it that relieves pressure above a certain level. This pressure is caused by the pressure plate pushing back on the slave cylinder. As I understand it, ClutchNet doesn't manufacture their clutches, they buy off the shelf clutches and rebuild them with heavier duty springs and friction material.
My train of thought was that the pressure plate was built with too stiff of spring, which was tripping the relief valve and preventing me from getting full disengagement. I ordered a Duralast clutch kit, with plans to swap the pressure plate, reconnect the trans and measure the slave disengagement. Once I pulled the clutch, I found that the springs on the hub interfered with the pressure plate and that they were preventing disengagement.
I posted about it, and got some help from trotterlg (I believe, I'm on my phone so I can't check). He showed me that the organic clutch is thicker and that tr puck clutch should clear the p plate. If only ClutchNet had known that, I could have been driving my car months ago. Instead I'm waiting on them to ship me a clutch. I might just order one from eBay so I can drive the damned car finally.