Now that I have it running and shifting ( the engine is broke right now ) I use the tcu to drive it. This unit has 4 shift maps. A and B are the normal, tunable, maps. 1 for sreet, one for race. "C" is for snow, takes off in 2nd.
"D" is for dyno, it takes off in what ever gear you program it to ( 3rd for this trans) and locks the TQ converter up @ a user set rpm. Plus it has a paddle shifter option that I am using.
When we used the manual switchs, yes, you had to shift it to overdrive for it to go. But because of the fail safe programing the car will do 1st and rev. with out any input from the ecm ( or the switchs) just using the shifter. I don't have any need for a fancy shifter any more. The paddle shifter will not miss a shift.
For a while I had a 1400 rpm stall converter in the trans. With the 3.29 gears the car drove away from lights with out a lot of fuss or noise, It was nice. BUT..............the idle speed was to high for that converter. didn't want to idle in gear. now I has a 2095 stall, the car sits at a light just fine. But if you are not carefull it will light up the tires with a tickle of the gas peddle unless you let it get rolling first.
I have a bent rod from "hydro lock". The piston looks OK, but I will replace it just to be safe. yester day I ordered the new piston set.
350, .040 over, flat tops, comp cams roller, roller rockers, dart alum heads ( set up for 7500 rpm ) victor intake, SS headers in to a 2.5 cross over pipe, in to a electric exhaust dump, remote electric water pump, with a lot of red powder coating so it would look "stock"
The TQ converter for a 4T65 should have a bigger bolt pattern that the 4T60. but the 4T60 converter my fit in the 4T65.