Getting close. Few more things to do and it will be ready to swap. No build thread, there are very good ones already available (which I studied over and over). This project wouldn't be at this point without many great folks on here with detailed builds and photos and to many people who were great to deal with for parts and suggestions. General info: enlarged TB neck (Dawg's method), 56mm TB by Steve Monroe, ported exhaust, ported Y-pipe, 260 cam, stock lifters, mild head port and gasket match, EGR delete, dodgerunner belt tensioner, RD starter jig, 4T60 trans. Sinister chip.
It will look a lot more cluttered once I get the wiring on it, vacuum lines etc. Need to drop the 2.8 to grab those items to transfer yet (including upper plenum bolts which are missing in the picture). I'm waiting for someone to flame me for using the fram filter. Figured since I need to change the oil and filter so soon with the new cam no sense in buying a better one. Did add ZDDP to the crankcase and pre-oiled.
General info: enlarged TB neck (Dawg's method), 56mm TB by Steve Monroe, ported exhaust, ported Y-pipe, 260 cam, stock lifters, mild head port and gasket match, EGR delete, dodgerunner belt tensioner, RD starter jig, 4T60 trans. Sinister chip.
That sounds to me to be a sensible, moderate, and well-thought-out combination that should provide you years of year-round service, just as my own 3.4L engine swap, completed on New Year's Eve of December 2006, has done for me.
[This message has been edited by project34 (edited 04-19-2013).]
the bracket is necessary because of the 4T60 portion of the swap. If I used the stock 3 speed automatic with the 3.4 the existing bracket works. But to use the 4 speed a bracket has to be made. If you look on the spacecoast thread for the 4T60 swap you'll see a bracket that they used. part of it is a stock bracket, but a piece needs to be welded onto it. pretty slick really.
update: motor is out. picture of man in engine compartment still needs to be taken. I didn't lift it by the trunk latch, that's there as a precaution. I used the 4 X 4 under the frame method. worked great. next up is to transfer stuff to the 3.4 and put it in. Other than cutting one of the front cradle bolts and cutting holes in both sides of the frame to get the rears out this went pretty smooth.
Now all you'll need is a custom-made "Fiero 3.4L" decal atop the intake manifold of your Fiero's 3.4L engine swap.
At one time, a gentleman by the user name of "Mailmule" made a black one for me, and did a commendably good job of it.
It very much looks "factory stock" atop an unengraved 2.8L intake manifold on a a 3.4L engine swap.
I've no idea if Mailmule still produces such custom-made "Fiero 3.4L" decals for unengraved Fiero intake manifolds, but for your purposes, that might well be worthwhile checking out further. He struck me as a good guy who produced quality work.
Update. Finally got around to see if it will start this morning. had to bypass the Neutral safety switch so I'll be looking for one of those. FIRED UP ALMOST AT THE TURN OF THE KEY!! Is there a better feeling than having something all apart putting it together and having it start on the first turn??? Especially for somone who hasn't had a car engine apart in decades. Granted after running for 15-20 minutes at 2,000 rpm to break in the new cam the coolant light was starting to come on and when I let it idle it was idling too fast but heh those things can be taken care of. still need to hook up the brake cables and put in a new NS switch and adjust the shifter, the cable is too long the way it is right now. ------------------ 1986 Fiero GT Fastback 1979 Naked Honda Goldwing
[This message has been edited by Grantman (edited 08-04-2013).]