------------------ 67 GT-40 Mark II, 3800 S/C auto, 85 Fiero based (ASPP) kit. Held suspension and coil-overs all around with 2" dropped spindles. Mike's leather interior. And a whole lot more...
Hey Rick, Yes, it's possible, but you would lose a bit of trunk space. I considered that but bodywork isn't my favorite task. I like the license plate where it is and took the easy way out. I put a downward slant on the Borla tips, that matches the radius that the rear section swings on, allowing a tight opening in the bodywork. It rubs a litlle when opening but fiberglass on chrome doesn't leave a mark. You would have to go up into the trunk and over the rear cross support. Looking up from the driver's side you can see I'm very close to the trunk floor.
My adjustable center bracket worked nice.
I still have my trunk.
Kevin
------------------ 67 GT-40 Mark II, 3800 S/C auto, 85 Fiero based (ASPP) kit. Held suspension and coil-overs all around with 2" dropped spindles. Mike's leather interior. And a whole lot more...
I was afraid of that. I like the look of the high tips, so I may just stick fakes there and have plain pipes come out low. I have to get the rear together and see how much room I have. Rick
I prefer it over the original. Some people may not like those things pointing straight at them. HAHA Kevin
------------------ 67 GT-40 Mark II, 3800 S/C auto, 85 Fiero based (ASPP) kit. Held suspension and coil-overs all around with 2" dropped spindles. Mike's leather interior. And a whole lot more...
Today I spent a couple of hours trimming off the rear of the frame and the bottom of the trunk. Tomorrow I will set the back half of the body on and see how it lines up.
When I first started taking the car apart I discovered that the rear cradle nuts inside the frame, and that a PO had cut the side flap in the frame to access them, but never welded them shut which turned out to bee a good thing. I bought Rodney Dickman's floating cradle nut assemblies to remedy that. It came time to install them today. The hinge mounts for the rear body section will cover the cutouts so they had to go back together. I still need to close the flaps and weld them up, which I will do tomorrow. Here are the pictures
I got the rear set on the back of the chassis today. It won't quite line up at this point, as there is some interference between the frame and the body support in the rear of the body. I'll have to trim alittle more off the end of the frame.
Sorry for not posting for a while. When I went to mount the rear hinge brackets to the frame I noticed that the body had distorted from the way it had set for so many years. I had to think about what I was going to do. Other things came along and it took a while to get back to the GT40. This week I decided to go ahead and bolt the hinges in place amd see what happened. It may have to let it sit with the stress on it to see if it will straighten out. If any of you fiberglass guys have any suggestions such as heat or pressure please let me know. Thanks for looking, Rick
Ok, more activity to report. I mounted the rear hinge plates and there will need to be some tweeking to the rear body to close properly. I also got all the other panels mounted preliminarily. Here are some pictures. The last one shows the notches I had to make in the spare tire tub for the hood to fit.
I got stalled trying to get the rear to line up so there hasn't been any progress. As a mater of fact I have put a cover on it and pushed it out of the garage to work on a Factory Five Roadster kit. Rick