I got the remote start to work fully today. I tapped into the door ajar light for a hood pin input to the control box. The car wouldn't start. With the key on and all the doors closed, the light stays out. when the key is off a ground shows up on the door ajar light wire not allowing the remote start to work. I cut the hood pin wire to the remote and it works fine now. I will have to actually have to install the crappy hood pin they sent with the kit. I do this for a living on aircraft so and it wasn't even that easy for me.
Now I have the lighter interior door panels, power locks and power windows, I have the light grey console too. Eventually I will paint the plastic trim around the door to match.The windows are tinted and I picked up some light dove grey head liner at a fabric store. Thats next while I have it apart.
Also i put in a stock EQ Delco radio. Sounds nice.
I removed the head liner backer board. I have never been able to get the material to stick right in the past. So this time I put a layer of glass cloth down and gobbed on the resin. I trimmed it with a razer knife while it was still a little pliable so it would be easier to clean up with my die grinder.
Drove it till it ran out of gas the other day. Fortunately I was 1/2 a block away from the gas station headed down hill so I coasted it in. When I filled it up, it took 9.9 gallons and I had driven 238 miles 24 MPG. This car is an automatic and the gas tank is from an 87. I drive it at 70 to 72 MPH 30 miles each way to work.
Something doesn't sound right here or does it?
Edit: 3-27-13 I drove it 200 miles round trip all highway miles. I drove 67 MPH and went 206 miles with 6.6 miles for 31 MPG
Edit: 6-1-13 Been driving it daily to work. With the 3 speed its been getting 28 MPG at around 72 MPH.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-01-2013).]
Progress. I drilled the old gear with two holes and tapped them out to 1/4 20. Then I used a steering wheel puller to remove it. I drilled the camshaft with a 5/16 drill bit then tapped it out to 3/8 16 and pushed the new gear on with a nut and bolt. I'm redoing the gaskets too. The valve cover gasket was shrunk and hard as a rock.
It was as bad as I thought. Both rear cradle bolts were rusted loose. The front left was seized up, I had to snap the bolt head and nut off. Now I have to get that out. I spent all Labor day weekend trying to get the cradle out.
I spoke too soon. I had to take the motor and trans back out this time the right way cuz the cradle bolts were all in working order now. I found the valve cover was warped on the corners and the pushrod cover needed to be redone also. I've put a mountain of work into htis car, but for the gas mileage,I'll work on it all day!
I have put about a thousand or so miles on it since I pulled the engine for the second time. Absolutely no oil leaks now.
Now it has a check engine lite every once in a while when i'm idling on warm up or at a long stop lite. And my gas MPG is 21 now @ 72 MPH highway. It was around 26 or 27. I haven't checked the code yet but I will. Anyone have any Ideas?
If the code only comes on after idling for a minute or longer, it's probably a high or low idle code.
What does the car idle at? If it's above 1000 rpm and the ecm can't get it down with the IAC valve it'll throw a code. There could be vacuum leaks at the throttle body or intake manifold gaskets, vacuum lines, etc.
You'll need to pull the code to even know where to start, though.
I just noticed the fuel economy drop, it could be leaking fuel past the injector, into the throttle body. At idle that could cause it to throw a rich code (44 or 45, one is rich, one lean, I can't remember which). When not idling there may be enough airflow to bring the mixture back into the acceptable range, turning the code back off, but still driving economy down.
[This message has been edited by FieroJimmy (edited 11-23-2013).]
I have a remote start in it now. When I start it it idles high above 1K RPM and drops down under 1K when it warms up.The SES light doesn't always come on.
Before, when the SES light was coming on, at idle when the car seemed to be struggling to stay running. It was dropping from 800 down to around 600 and I would have to goose it a little to keep it running.
Well, I replaced the intake manifold gasket with a new one and actually torqued it. I didn't do that when I had it apart before. I haven't gotten a code yet but I've only driven it three miles. I also replaced the AC compressor with a bypass pulley. it was starting to squeal.
It's possible the o2 sensor could be bad, there could also be exhaust leaks. The manifold could be cracked where the #1 and #4 runners connect to the main downpipe, or the intermediate pipe flange might not be sealing properly. If there is a leak in the exhaust iy will suck in raw air and make the sensor read lean. The pligs could be partially fouled from running rich while you had the vacuum leak at the intake.
I bought a low mileage series III yesterday. I think a 3800 swap is on the horizon. Also I bought a sunroof and panel for it too. I'll probably take the series II out of my other car and put it in this one.
I found a small crack in the exhaust manifold, I mean small. Hairline! I thought no, really. But yes, that was it. I went to the local LKQ and they had one 1989 Chevy Celebrity with a Tech4 in in. The manifold is an exact fit. My gas mileage is now back to 28 MPG @ 70MPH highway w/an automatic.