I've had trouble with a 4 yr old Tappan electric oven. I know there have been some problems with the contoller board, but not sure if this is what the problem is. The broiler element stopped working firstabout a month ago--we rarely use it. The display, when you select "broil" comes up, then you choose Hi or Lo. Display stays illuminated on high for a moment, then goes to ---- (four dashes) and no heat. I suspect the controller in this instance but.........

The bake element quit last night, in the middle of cooking supper. I select bake, then the temp on the digital adjustment button. (300--350--400 etc) In this case, the temp stays illuminated, and I can still hear the relay kicking on and off as it always does. On for a few minutes, then off for a few minutes. I think this part of the controller board is still working.

I disconnected the power, pulled the back off so I could get to the element connections. (easier than working up inside the oven IMO) Without disconnecting anything, I plugged it back in.
Volts at each of the terminals show 110v to ground on each side--controls on and controls off. Show zero volts between the 2 terminals--on both bake and broil--whether the controls are on or off.

Disconnected power and the wires and set my digital VOM to OHMs, choosing the lowest setting (200), and got a "zero" on both elements between the two element end connections.

Controller board?
Controller board and elements bad?
Elements bad?

Elements physically look good--no burned spots.

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 10-12-2013).]

Elements, just do a continuaty check with a meter. Popcorns machines gave anywhere from 5-500 ohms, depending...but so long as its not visably broken up AND has a closed cuirit, it should give heat.

Boards, cant help ya...I always diagnesed by swapping it out with a known good one, and I aint got one and you are 2500 miles away in a place with guns.

little confused with the power on power off same results thing.


But you should get lots of resistance on the elements if they are good. I just did ours last month.

replacements were on the shelf at home depot. Not brand replacements but they fit ok with a little bend.

quote Originally posted by pokeyfiero: little confused with the power on power off same results thing. But you should get lots of resistance on the elements if they are good. I just did ours last month. replacements were on the shelf at home depot. Not brand replacements but they fit ok with a little bend.

"little confused..."
So was I, but not having a wiring schematic, I assumed the power is there at the element terminals all the time, and the controller just completes the path to ground/neutral.
That controller is pretty pricey and you have to replace the plastic adornment (overlay) as well, as it evidently comes all apart when removing the controller from the oven top.

I will get the model/ser# and look at Lowes for a bake element.

Model TEF326FBB
Bake element $31
Broil element $94
Controler $100.60
Controller overlay $17
...approaching 2/3 the price of a new oven--Danger Will Robinson!!

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 10-12-2013).]

all elements use 220VAC....
Each input to ground/neutral shows 120VAC on a meter.
Meter does not show both feeds are 180° out of phase.

Element(s) is bad when running will often blow out the element.
Element dies when cold... Circuit is Open (infinity Ω ) on any meter.

------------------
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quote Originally posted by theogre: all elements use 220VAC.... Each input to ground/neutral shows 120VAC on a meter. Meter does not show both feeds are 180° out of phase. Element(s) is bad when running will often blow out the element. Element dies when cold... Circuit is Open (infinity Ω ) on any meter. I guess you meant to say "Element(s) is bad when running will often blow out the Controller. Things were much simpler when there just 2 knobs up there--one for bake and one for broil.

Breaker, oven wall receptacle, and bus bar on oven all show 220V across L1-L2 and shows 110V to ground from each leg.
Range top elements all work fine.

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 10-12-2013).]

If you had a Betty Crocker Easy Bake oven, you would just need to change the light bulb. Problem fixed.

I would check the ohms on a good element at the store and compare to what your have. Is there a relay ? It could be bad, check input voltage and output voltage at the relay.

Yours is much newer than mine but I think the elements are the same design. Does it snap/clip in ? A lot of times the clips to element connections do not transfer electricity well, much like car battery terminals.
I hope I helped, I know you want those bisquits in the morning, .

You amp check it. You can have voltage going to the element, but if it isn't pulling hardly any amps, then its blown.

quote Originally posted by maryjane: I guess you meant to say "Element(s) is bad when running will often blow out the Controller. Things were much simpler when there just 2 knobs up there--one for bake and one for broil. Breaker, oven wall receptacle, and bus bar on oven all show 220V across L1-L2 and shows 110V to ground from each leg. Range top elements all work fine.

Then power etc is good.

No. Blown the element itself. You can fry an element if the resistance wire cracks. Most time crack develops after cooking and cools down but can happen anytime. When fry in use... think arc welding for a second or two.

Most rods/elements are just nichrome etc wire coils wrapped in insulation covered in a rod case. Many commercial flat elements are same. flat design makes them much easier to clean etc.
www.wattco.com/calrodheater.html
www.veryst.com/project/Calrod-thermal-analysis
more goolge: calrod element

And no... A weld/dead element often won't blow a fuse/breaker. Depending on resistance left, not even when short to ground.

If you get resistance on a meter, 40-130Ω stove top, 15-40Ω oven/broiler, then most cases element is good.
Many times Relay(s) or control is bad. Relay can be on control board or not.
And Old knob type is famous for dead switches.

http://home.howstuffworks.c...o-repair-an-oven.htm
Google: electric oven repair

I had electric stoves. I had to learn to fix or pay thru the rear. Many won't last after 5-7 years and most burn-out switches/relays repeatedly. Stove top front burners are great because front gets use more.

Relays appear to be on the controller. I can't take a pic of mine but here is one of the backside of the replacement controller:
http://www.rcapplianceparts...0003420/01028900.jpg
You may have to click the image to enlarge it.

If you're OK with applying 220 directly to the oven elements in question, that would eliminate those as a possible problem.

Most of the electronics I find in the trash or thrift stores fail due to poor solder connections. You might look over the controller board for possible bad solder joints.

The relay contacts on the controller board could be burnt to a point they aren't allowing current to flow. If you measure voltage on one side of the relay contacts but not on the other, you've likely found your problem. Many of those relay covers are removable which would allow you to check / clean the relay contacts.

[This message has been edited by FrugalFiero (edited 10-14-2013).]