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Anybody ever disable a cylinder on a car? by 2.5
Started on: 02-15-2013 11:48 PM
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Last post by: Rickady88GT on 02-20-2013 12:30 AM
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Report this Post02-15-2013 11:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Direct Link to This Post
My buddy wants to render a cylinder useless on his 64 Caddy's 429. The compression is poor and he thinks a ring is broken or the cylinder wall is very scored. It smokes alot and uses alot of oil, his compression on the other 7 cylinders is good. His thought is to block fuel from entering the cylinder by removing the rocker on the intake valve so it stays shut. But the piston will still go up and down of course so he was thinking somehow hold the exhaust valve partly open at all times? Is he thinking right about this?
Is there a more effective way?
Obviously the piston could be replaced, or the cylinder wall honed, but any ideas on how to disable the cylinder?
The lifters in this car are hydraulic, if that makes any difference.
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Report this Post02-15-2013 11:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Direct Link to This Post
Remove the spark plug? Might make a funny noise and blow some oil though.
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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post02-15-2013 11:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:

My buddy wants to render a cylinder useless on his 64 Caddy's 429. The compression is poor and he thinks a ring is broken or the cylinder wall is very scored. It smokes alot and uses alot of oil, his compression on the other 7 cylinders is good. His thought is to block fuel from entering the cylinder by removing the rocker on the intake valve so it stays shut. But the piston will still go up and down of course so he was thinking somehow hold the exhaust valve partly open at all times? Is he thinking right about this?
Is there a more effective way?
Obviously the piston could be replaced, or the cylinder wall honed, but any ideas on how to disable the cylinder?
The lifters in this car are hydraulic, if that makes any difference.


4 at a time in the LS4
Not a good idea otherwise.

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MidEngineManiac
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Report this Post02-15-2013 11:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MidEngineManiacSend a Private Message to MidEngineManiacDirect Link to This Post
A 1976 Lotus twin-cam 4 will run and drive on one firing.....'course, there aint no power, and it backfires like hell (eeyyyy, yeh, twin 54 webber sidedrafts instead of stromburgs might have something to do with that). Fire might even be in the equation.

But Yeh..

Ya can drive a car with less than optimal cylanders.....

Dont ask about those webbers or that lotus.
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Zeb
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Report this Post02-16-2013 12:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ZebSend a Private Message to ZebDirect Link to This Post
If you remove the intake rocker, what's keeping the lifter in the bore? And if its not in its bore, where does the oil, and oil pressure, go? AFAIK, there's an oil supply to the lifter bore. Leave it wide open, and you'll lose oil pressure.

As for exhaust, cranking down on the rocker till the exhaust valve hangs open would do the trick, but I thought Caddy valvegear was non-adjustable? Anyway, with the exhaust valve open, the oil sloshing around in that cylinder will still find its way out the exhaust.

Regardless, disabling a cylinder that's still firing, even poorly, will make an engine run even worse. If you've holed a piston, and are trying to make it home, or to a shop, give it a try. But in your friend's case, I can't see how it'll help.
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Report this Post02-16-2013 12:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
I believe that the LS4 disables both valves on the cylinders that it "drops".
Doing it on one cylinder will probably be ugly, but it shouldn't hurt anything.

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Report this Post02-16-2013 01:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

I believe that the LS4 disables both valves on the cylinders that it "drops".
Doing it on one cylinder will probably be ugly, but it shouldn't hurt anything.


When you say drops does that mean they stay shut? If this happens wouldnt it create a sort of airlock as the piston tries to move?
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Report this Post02-16-2013 02:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CowsPatootClick Here to visit CowsPatoot's HomePageSend a Private Message to CowsPatootDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


When you say drops does that mean they stay shut? If this happens wouldnt it create a sort of airlock as the piston tries to move?


It would build compression as the piston goes up....but that pressure would help push it back down. Across 4 cylinders even in the firing order, they would cancel each other out.

Obviously you would have to lock the intake valve closed or you would also have unburned gas running through the cylinder...NOT a good idea (if it were MPFI, then you could disable the injector too). But...if you locked the exhaust open, then it would pull exhaust from the other cylinders in that bank IN during each downstroke. Can't imagine what that is going to do to the exhaust flow on that side.

Maybe it time to break down and rebuild it....would you really want to cruise around in a car that is running that rough?
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Report this Post02-16-2013 09:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for User00013170Send a Private Message to User00013170Direct Link to This Post
I would think you would not want any compression at all in that cylinder so I would think the best route would be to remove the exhaust valve totally and "seal" the intake shut. ( of course you cant do that without opening it up, unless perhaps its a non-interference engine i guess and block it open? )

Still going to lose oil in there if the rings are bad.. but now its going to come out un-burnt..

But like the others have said, it just sounds like a bad idea unless its a 'please get me home without walking' thing.. ( knowing you may ruin the engine in the process )

[This message has been edited by User00013170 (edited 02-16-2013).]

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Report this Post02-16-2013 09:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolDirect Link to This Post
The cylinder must breathe in some manner. Holding valves open will cause it to mix exhaust and intake gases. One valve open will cause it to pull and push gases to that side of the system. Raw gas from the intake would wash the cylinder walls.

In high school during the late 50's/early 50's I had a classmate who owned a 40's something Kaiser Frazer with a flat head inline 6. It was knocking pretty badly, so he removed the oil plan and head, removed 3 pistons and rods so that the crank was still balanced. He drove it for several years until he graduated. It had a very strange exhaust note as there was a slight pause between the firing of 2 cylinders then the 3rd one firing. Something like the rhythm of a horse galloping.

So, if you disable so as to keep the forces on the crankshaft equally spaced, it might work out well.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post02-16-2013 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Direct Link to This Post
Caddy had a V8/6/4 back in the 80’s, never got too much info on it other than they disabled pairs of pistons to balance the engine while it was running on 6/4 cylinders. Disabling one piston I would think would make the engine run rough and not be good for it.

Even with just one bad piston burning oil, if that is all he is worried about would make even more problems for him. Just ether run it the way it is. Pull the plug wire on the cylinder so it doesn’t burn the oil or rebuild the engine, at least pull head on the offending cylinder, replace the oil ring, and hone the wall a little. (if that is even possible to do without pulling the pan, not sure, haven’t had but a half a cup of coffee)

There is no simple answer to that.

Now I have had big engines like that in an old caddy burn oil, so what it burns a little oil. Those old caddies would run forever even with all the cylinders burning oil, I had one I had that I bought for 75 bucks years ago, well actually decades ago that ran for a very, very, very long time for me and the only reason I got rid of it was the rear frame was so bad you couldn’t jack the rear end up. ‘’drive the dam thing or rebuild it.

Steve

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Report this Post02-16-2013 04:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
I drove a V8 for months, even on 100 mile trips, that burned a quart of oil every 25 miles. I just bought cases of bulk motor oil and kept it in the trunk. Maybe just loosen that cyl spark plug enough to keep oil from coming out, but preventing any compression.
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Report this Post02-16-2013 05:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for weaselbeakSend a Private Message to weaselbeakDirect Link to This Post
Did this once to an Olds 371 from 59. Just pulled both push rods, didn't even mess with the lifter. It stayed in the high side of it's hole, I guess because it got slapped up a bit higher than it normally ran, putting it in a stuck mode just off the cam. It probably could have just as easily popped up into the lifter valley and just laid there. Drove it for months when I had no money to do otherwise.
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Report this Post02-16-2013 09:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Old LarSend a Private Message to Old LarDirect Link to This Post
I heard the story from an old gearhead who removed the piston so the car just ran on seven. This was a 1950s Ford and the car ran great, they sold it like that, the girls who bought it drove it the California, sold it out there. The girls came back through and said that the car ran great, got good gas mileage and wondered if they had another good car around.
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Report this Post02-17-2013 04:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
I knew a guy who was driving across NM in the 60s in a straight 8 Buick. It threw a rod and only had internal damage. They pulled the pan, took out the broken rod and drove it the rest of the way to Calif.
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Report this Post02-17-2013 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyDirect Link to This Post
If it's worn out bad enough to be sucking oil, the lifters on that cyl are more than likely mushroomed out enough that they won't pop out into the lifter galley. Just pull the rockers and pushrods. We drove a 57 Chevy like that for 2yrs.
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Report this Post02-17-2013 11:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

If it's worn out bad enough to be sucking oil, the lifters on that cyl are more than likely mushroomed out enough that they won't pop out into the lifter galley. Just pull the rockers and pushrods. We drove a 57 Chevy like that for 2yrs.


The car is for sale, but if he still has it when the snow melts he said he will probably try this.
Here is a link to the cars craigslist ad if you want to see:
http://eauclaire.craigslist.../cto/3522253402.html


By the way this thread was cool just hearing all the old stories
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Report this Post02-17-2013 11:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Direct Link to This Post

2.5

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Member since May 2007
 
quote
Originally posted by 84fiero123:

Caddy had a V8/6/4 back in the 80’s, never got too much info on it other than they disabled pairs of pistons to balance the engine while it was running on 6/4 cylinders. Disabling one piston I would think would make the engine run rough and not be good for it.

...
Steve




Yep.

"The L61 had not provided a significant improvement in the company's CAFE numbers, so Cadillac and Eaton Corporation devised a cylinder deactivation system called Modulated Displacement that would shut off two or four cylinders in low-load conditions such as highway cruising, then reactivate them when more power was needed. When deactivated, solenoids mounted to those cylinders' rocker-arm studs would disengage the fulcrums, allowing the rockers to "float" and leave the valves closed despite the continued action of the pushrods. These engines are easily identified by their rocker covers, which each have elevated sections over 2 cylinders with electrical connectors on top. With the valves closed the cylinders acted as air-springs, which both eliminated the feel of "missing" and kept the cylinders warm for instant combustion upon reactivation. Simultaneously, the engine control module would reduce the amount of fuel metered through the TBI unit. " -wiki

This is similar to what he will try to do, cut that one cylinder, but full time. The difference suppose is this is a carb engine so fuel will not be reduced, it will just not be sucked into that one cylinder.
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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post02-18-2013 11:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


Yep.

"The L61 had not provided a significant improvement in the company's CAFE numbers, so Cadillac and Eaton Corporation devised a cylinder deactivation system called Modulated Displacement that would shut off two or four cylinders in low-load conditions such as highway cruising, then reactivate them when more power was needed. When deactivated, solenoids mounted to those cylinders' rocker-arm studs would disengage the fulcrums, allowing the rockers to "float" and leave the valves closed despite the continued action of the pushrods. These engines are easily identified by their rocker covers, which each have elevated sections over 2 cylinders with electrical connectors on top. With the valves closed the cylinders acted as air-springs, which both eliminated the feel of "missing" and kept the cylinders warm for instant combustion upon reactivation. Simultaneously, the engine control module would reduce the amount of fuel metered through the TBI unit. " -wiki

This is similar to what he will try to do, cut that one cylinder, but full time. The difference suppose is this is a carb engine so fuel will not be reduced, it will just not be sucked into that one cylinder.


I dont think it is a good idea to do anything like this unless it is a "trail fix" to limp you home.
As far as the engines that come stock from the factory with "expendable displacement", they have big issues even to this day after the Auto Makers spent untold millions on the technology. One of the biggest problems is oil consumption and build up. It is impossible to stop oil from being sucked up between the rings and into the combustion chamber. This oil fouls the combustion chamber with heavy deposits of carbon that is an age old foe of the internal combustion engine. BUT a bigger problem is the oil that gets sludged in the rings. This oil sludge will bake in the ring grooves and lands and form a very hard carbon "ring" in each of the ring groves. This carbon deposit will score the cylinder so bad that a rebuild will be needed MUCH MUCH sooner than "normal". Of course this will cause a domino effect of lower compression, high oil consumption, smoke from the tail pipe, rough running engine and on and on.

I can think of more reasons not to deactivate cylinders, but I will stop there.

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Report this Post02-18-2013 09:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BHall71Send a Private Message to BHall71Direct Link to This Post
I ran my '85 fiero 2.8L on 5 cylinders for over a year, cam lobe went flat. Pulled the spark plug and ran the spark plug wire over and isolated it so there was no spark hop to ground. Goes without saying it was down on power but still stared without issue and idle was surprisingly not that rough. The car was my beater and is now a parts car for my new '88.

Brian

Pray for Wichita.

[This message has been edited by BHall71 (edited 02-18-2013).]

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Report this Post02-18-2013 09:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for williegoatClick Here to visit williegoat's HomePageSend a Private Message to williegoatDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


The car is for sale, but if he still has it when the snow melts he said he will probably try this.
Here is a link to the cars craigslist ad if you want to see:
http://eauclaire.craigslist.../cto/3522253402.html


By the way this thread was cool just hearing all the old stories


Demolition derby car !!!

[This message has been edited by williegoat (edited 02-18-2013).]

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Report this Post02-18-2013 09:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for williegoatClick Here to visit williegoat's HomePageSend a Private Message to williegoatDirect Link to This Post
(double post, now I know how it happens)

[This message has been edited by williegoat (edited 02-18-2013).]

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2.5
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Report this Post02-19-2013 02:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:


I dont think it is a good idea to do anything like this unless it is a "trail fix" to limp you home.
As far as the engines that come stock from the factory with "expendable displacement", they have big issues even to this day after the Auto Makers spent untold millions on the technology. One of the biggest problems is oil consumption and build up. It is impossible to stop oil from being sucked up between the rings and into the combustion chamber. This oil fouls the combustion chamber with heavy deposits of carbon that is an age old foe of the internal combustion engine. BUT a bigger problem is the oil that gets sludged in the rings. This oil sludge will bake in the ring grooves and lands and form a very hard carbon "ring" in each of the ring groves. This carbon deposit will score the cylinder so bad that a rebuild will be needed MUCH MUCH sooner than "normal". Of course this will cause a domino effect of lower compression, high oil consumption, smoke from the tail pipe, rough running engine and on and on.

I can think of more reasons not to deactivate cylinders, but I will stop there.


I understand your point. However will the oil baking and sludge problem happen if there is no spark? (Disconnected wire)
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Report this Post02-20-2013 12:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SpoonSend a Private Message to SpoonDirect Link to This Post
In the day I had a 65 GTO and threw rod while racing a Buick Grand sport. There was a slight loss of power and a shimmy to the engine. I made it home about 10 miles away and the next morning I did my diagnostics. Found a the dead cylinder and pulled the plug to check compression which was zero. Couldn't even feel compression with thumb pressed against spark plug hole.
I poked a long screw driver into the cylinder and found the piston at top "DEAD" center. I applied pressure and as the piston began its decent I developed stomach cramps.
No,, the crank did not move!
Long story short, you can run an engine with a disabled cylinder. It depends on how it's disabled. I would of tried it if it weren't for the perforations in the pan.
After pulling the pan I discovered the big end of the rod was still on the crank journal keeping the adjacent rod in alignment.

Spoon

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post02-20-2013 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


I understand your point. However will the oil baking and sludge problem happen if there is no spark? (Disconnected wire)




It only takes heat for it to bake. So yes it can but at a slower rate and also depends on the "health" of the rest of the engine. Even tho the heat is much lower than a firing cylinder, the problem with no spark is that the oil is not burned off of the top of the piston and that will sludge up. Combustion actually cleans the oil out of the cylinder that has slipped by the rings. BTW the oil is supposed to slip by the rings at a very small amount to lubricate the piston and rings. That in turn will cause the oil to get trapped between the rings and fill the lands. That oil will sludge and harden, losing its ability to effectively lubricate , casing accelerated wear.

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