my buddies blazer is failing emissions because of a p1870 code (tcc slippage) and it has nothign to do with emissions at all. its failing just because the SES is on, anyone hav enay ideas on how to get this thing to pass without tearing the trans apart? maybe some legal loopholes in WI? any help is appreciated thanks in advance.

Code reader that clears codes. Stop a block before you get to the shop, clear the codes then take it in? Worked for the Neon we just had checked a few months back. It had a random misfire code, but we were running out of time and the new coil, plugs and wires we ordered hadn't all shown up yet (ordred the coil and wires off of E-bay because they were about half the price of local parts stores). So we cleared the codes and took it back in for reinspection. It passed the inspection because the SES light wasn't on anymore. About a week later all the parts showed up and I replaced them.

[This message has been edited by Khw (edited 12-26-2012).]

ehh i dunno if thatll work but truthfully i got nothing to lose. ill try it and see.

quote Originally posted by Niterrorz: my buddies blazer is failing emissions because of a p1870 code (tcc slippage) and it has nothign to do with emissions at all. its failing just because the SES is on, anyone hav enay ideas on how to get this thing to pass without tearing the trans apart? maybe some legal loopholes in WI? any help is appreciated thanks in advance.

The SES is on because it IS emissions related. Clearing the codes will set a not ready flag and they won't test it until the PCM says it is ready. By then the TCC error might be back.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 12-26-2012).]

quote Originally posted by TK: The SES is on because it IS emissions related. Clearing the codes will set a not ready flag and they won't test it until the PCM says it is ready. By then the TCC error might be back.

I'm not following how a TCC issue is emissions related. Care to enlighten me? (Re-reading that it comes off as smart-a$$ ish, but I didn't intend it to be)

quote Originally posted by TK: The SES is on because it IS emissions related. Clearing the codes will set a not ready flag and they won't test it until the PCM says it is ready. By then the TCC error might be back.

Odd, I wonder why it worked with the Neon. Maybe it had passed the not ready flag by the time the girl got it to the emissions test (I'd say less then 10 miles from where we cleared the codes), but not tripped the code yet?

quote Originally posted by TK: The SES is on because it IS emissions related. Clearing the codes will set a not ready flag and they won't test it until the PCM says it is ready. By then the TCC error might be back.

I agree with TK.

[This message has been edited by carnut122 (edited 12-27-2012).]

if you have a "good" code reader you can erase that one code without resetting the PCM (this is what puts all the sensors in not ready state)

I have a DHP Powrtuner that can do it, I thing the VW VAG-COM cable can do this as well.

If all else fails, arrive to the shop early in the morning. reset your PCM with whatever code reader. Idlle your car with no more than half a tank of gas. (the evap only works betwwen 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank). rev it a few times and cycle it on and off. Never go to speeds that would allow the TCC to lock. After it goes into closed loop a few times most of the sensors should go back in a ready state.

For e-test here, we are alowed to have up to 2 sensors in a not ready state.

TCC selenoid should not be an expensive fix. It will cost you more in fuel (therefore emissions) if it does not engage and alows the converter to slip during cruising speeds.
Best of luck.

quote Originally posted by Purple86GT: if you have a "good" code reader you can erase that one code without resetting the PCM (this is what puts all the sensors in not ready state)

That must be why it worked in the Neon. I'm not sure what brand or model of code reader I used, but the freinds I borrowed it from never buy "cheap". They buy top of the line or as near top of the line as they can possibly get.

quote Originally posted by Purple86GT: TCC selenoid should not be an expensive fix. It will cost you more in fuel (therefore emissions) if it does not engage and alows the converter to slip during cruising speeds. Best of luck.

Ahh. Okay that makes sense.

What year Blazer, 4.3 engine?

its a 96 blazer with th 4.3, the trans which is a 4l60e is known to be a POS (especially the 95-00) as the valve body bore wears out and fluid goes around the TCC valve causing it to slip. unfortunately its not a cheap fix or easy as your looking at a new 350$ valve body or droping the valve body and reaming out the TCC bore and puting in a larger valve.

I have a 96 Sonoma with same trans and eng. I have gotten a TCC lockup code that was actually caused by the TPS failing or losing connection. Replaced TPS and shifted properly again. Also during this I learned the oil pressure sender and fuel pump are on the same fuse and if one is drawing too much current ti can cause havok.
Just more food for thought.

I have also heard you could try removing and then putting back fuse #9, to reset this code? Havent tried it before myself.

i just got back from the testing center and it passed. i reset the codes and drove around in 2nd not allowing the converter to lock up. i would like to thank you all for your support and VERY special thanks to you Purple86GT for the idea +1 for you, what kind of beer do you like?

[This message has been edited by Niterrorz (edited 12-28-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Niterrorz: i just got back from the testing center and it passed. i reset the codes and drove around in 2nd not allowing the converter to lock up. i would like to that you all for your support and VERY special thanks to you Purple86GT for the idea +1 for you, what kind of beer do you like?

Good move!

quote Originally posted by OKflyboy: I'm not following how a TCC issue is emissions related. Care to enlighten me? (Re-reading that it comes off as smart-a$$ ish, but I didn't intend it to be)

Like most things you post you do not see the relevance. Once the SES light is on performance AND emisions is affected regardless of what YOU think.

the only way i see that a transmission code would be seen as part of emissions is that it may effect fuel milage and in turn cause more carbon to be released. but truthfully i think its bs as it doesnt effect the quality of the emissions being released just the amount.

Mention to your buddy, a bad TCC will cause overheating on that trans, premature failure.

On the emissions issue, does GM program some kind of "limp mode" into the computer for that code? (now that would affect emmisions)

My next door neighbor had the issue, his code didn't come back until the 2nd time he drove after reset. Check the simple things first, his was a corroded wire connector.

quote Originally posted by jetman: Mention to your buddy, a bad TCC will cause overheating on that trans, premature failure. On the emissions issue, does GM program some kind of "limp mode" into the computer for that code? (now that would affect emmisions) My next door neighbor had the issue, his code didn't come back until the 2nd time he drove after reset. Check the simple things first, his was a corroded wire connector.

ya the torque conveter is fine, its just the valve in the valve body that is worn. if you look into the code p1870 you will find its a common problem in 4l60e's and the issue wasnt resovled untill after 02. as for a limp mode, not that im aware of for this perticular issue althoguh gm does have limp modes for other issues.

quote Originally posted by AusFiero: Like most things you post you do not see the relevance. Once the SES light is on performance AND emisions is affected regardless of what YOU think.

Just going back and rereading some old posts and I stumble upon this... Wild...

What did I say to deserve that? He posted something I didn't understand, I asked for an explanation, it was given by another member and I admitted that his explanation made sense.

edit: So in looking at other threads that we both posted in around this time frame I see we had a couple of disagreements in a couple of political threads. So your response was to follow me to another thread to lob insults? Way to class up the joint...

[This message has been edited by OKflyboy (edited 03-03-2013).]

quote Originally posted by Khw: Odd, I wonder why it worked with the Neon. Maybe it had passed the not ready flag by the time the girl got it to the emissions test (I'd say less then 10 miles from where we cleared the codes), but not tripped the code yet?

My Eldo is like that. It has a bad O2 sensor preheater, and if i pull the battery ( i have to every few months or the entire car gets flaky and is impossible to drive, even the power seats dont work right ) i can drive a couple of days before the light comes back on. ( about 100 miles )

always try to use real gas at emission test's
disconect wire to parts that "light up" but have nothing to do with engine
if this process does not cause light up
older Fiero that uses some oil make sure oil level is low because an older engine burns the more oil when the oil level is at the top,,an older car burns the 1/2 quart quickly..
the week before use hi test gas chevron or texico,best to use a few gallons of hi test run it out then
fill tank half way with premium again
a small amount of accetone helps
always make sure your test is done when engine is hot.
check timing if not sure its perfect
if they put car on rollers ,make sure tires have proper inflation or over inflated
a safe hi speed run the day of check will remove some contaminates
if your engine is perfect just use hi test
get to know tester ,bribe tester

quote Originally posted by uhlanstan: always try to use real gas at emission test's disconect wire to parts that "light up" but have nothing to do with engine if this process does not cause light up older Fiero that uses some oil make sure oil level is low because an older engine burns the more oil when the oil level is at the top,,an older car burns the 1/2 quart quickly.. the week before use hi test gas chevron or texico,best to use a few gallons of hi test run it out then fill tank half way with premium again a small amount of accetone helps always make sure your test is done when engine is hot. check timing if not sure its perfect if they put car on rollers ,make sure tires have proper inflation or over inflated a safe hi speed run the day of check will remove some contaminates if your engine is perfect just use hi test get to know tester ,bribe tester

while all input is appreciated most of what you suggested no longer applies to emission testing. if the check engine light comes on its and automatic fail, if you disconnect something to an engine component it will trigger a check engine light. and bribing the tester doesn't work either because (at least here) data is sent into the state.

quote Originally posted by uhlanstan: get to know tester ,bribe tester

Which will be my best bet if they ever start inspecting here again.