I received a 6" grinder for free that I am trying to get working. The switch was removed and I do not know how to wire in a switch. It is a capacitor start 110 motor. There are three spade connectors that I assume would go to a switch. Any suggestions on what kind of switch and how I should hoook it up? It is a chinese grinder and I can not find any schematics on it. Who knows I may get it wired up and it may not even work, but I dont want to fry it trying to get it going. I appreciate any help. This would be a much better grinder than the little plastic housing one that I have now.

Solder all three spade connectors together then plug it in. If the sparks don't come out, somethings wrong.

Seriously though, from what I can make of your pic. Cap off the brown/black connection with a nut and Etape and run a switch between the blue and the red/yellow spades. Or just nut those together too and only plug it in when you want to use it.

~Tyler

_{]Please make sure to use caution when dealing with electricity. Take this advice as seriously as you would a rambling homeless man whom you've never met as I may be just that. And if you burn your garage down, it's not my fault}

[This message has been edited by GT-X (edited 12-17-2012).]

quote Originally posted by GT-X: ]Please make sure to use caution when dealing with electricity. Take this advice as seriously as you would a rambling homeless man whom you've never met as I may be just that. And if you burn your garage down, it's not my fault

Nice disclaimer there dude

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

quote Originally posted by GT-X: Seriously though, from what I can make of your pic. Cap off the brown/black connection with a nut and Etape and run a switch between the blue and the red/yellow spades. Or just nut those together too and only plug it in when you want to use it. ~Tyler

Do you know that this will work or are you just guessing? Why would there be an additional connector if it is not needed? For a lighted switch maybe?

quote Originally posted by FieroReinke: Do you know that this will work or are you just guessing? Why would there be an additional connector if it is not needed? For a lighted switch maybe?

I have motors like that at work.
The extra wire could be for a higher/lower speed.

If at work, I would try these 2:



If there are 3 wires, 1 should go to the capacitor (and then to the motor windings), and 2 to the motor windings.
You need the capicitor one, and one of the winding ones.
One will be low speed, one high speed.

Wire it to a exstension cord, and plug in across the shop aways away from the motor, just to be safe.
If it works, then wire iin the switch.

[This message has been edited by Boondawg (edited 12-18-2012).]

quote Originally posted by GT-X: Seriously though, from what I can make of your pic. Cap off the brown/black connection with a nut and Etape and run a switch between the blue and the red/yellow spades.

Assuming that the schematic is accurate ... always a big "if" ... that is my recommendation. For safety, the brown wire should be connected to AC LINE NEUTRAL, and the blue wire to AC LINE HOT. It is curious why the brown and black wires are connected to a common push-on terminal, rather than a simple butt splice.

quote Originally posted by FieroReinke: Why would there be an additional connector if it is not needed? For a lighted switch maybe?

That's a reasonable possibility, but it seems more likely that the original configuration may have had some provision for a switched external work light. If you don't want/need a switched light, you can just insulate that terminal or replace it with an insulated butt splice.



Blue (AC hot) --< <--SPST switch--> >-- Red/Yellow

Red/Yellow --< <--work light (switched)--> >-- Brown/Black (AC neutral)

Blue (AC hot) --< <--work light (unswitched)--> >-- Brown.Black (AC neutral)

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 12-18-2012).]

I will give it a try tonight and let you guys know how it goes.

If you have the proper equipment, do try to check the capacitor first. Many modern digital multimeters include the capability to measure capacitance. Be sure to verify that the capacitor is a non-polarized type and is rated at 370 volts or higher.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 12-19-2012).]